One alternative mentioned long ago is to use one of the programmable timer systems that are available for controlling installed sprinkler systems. Those systems can be set to activate different zones at different times, and they are totally automatic. You would also need to get a separate relay that operates on 24 volts AC to connect each zone. The good news is that those timers usually come with detailed connection instructions, the bad news is that you would need to get a double-pole normally open relay for each zone. This would be a fully automated system. You might even find this sort of timer at amazon.

OR, Rather than use a toggle switch, for selecting any one of multiple zone loops, you can use a rotary switch. OR, for another option, a multi-pole interlocking push-button switch. YOU WILL NOT FIND THOSE AT AMAZON, though. They are much less common, especially now. BUT the wiring would be simple and the functionality would be perfect for the application. It would work like the older-style car radios, with a different button for each zone.

 

Might you be able to provide some links as to where I can look. Forgive my ignorance, but back in the day, for these sorts of things, I would go to RadioShack. I haven't a clue where to look for these sorts of things now.

I came across digikey:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/c-k/H20407RR01Q/3753439

I think that would probably suffice if I understand correctly, again, I can solder this I think without issue, but it will be quite a bit of soldering. I think this means it will have a total of 10 terminals, 2 for the inputs and 8 for the 'outputs'. I just need to use my multimeter to see how it is wired if there isn't a manual. I want to be sure this is the right one since it isn't like there is a store I can get this from locally.

 

Might you be able to provide some links as to where I can look. Forgive my ignorance, but back in the day, for these sorts of things, I would go to RadioShack. I haven't a clue where to look for these sorts of things now.

I came across digikey:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/c-k/H20407RR01Q/3753439

I think that would probably suffice if I understand correctly, again, I can solder this I think without issue, but it will be quite a bit of soldering. I think this means it will have a total of 10 terminals, 2 for the inputs and 8 for the 'outputs'. I just need to use my multimeter to see how it is wired if there isn't a manual. I want to be sure this is the right one since it isn't like there is a store I can get this from locally.

That switch, the H204-model, prently could work, BUT discovering the actual connections will be required, because the data sheet in the link did not tell me what the actual connections were. Possibly another can decipher the scheme.

 

That switch, the H204-model, prently could work....

Not suitable I think, because (from the datasheet) "No common terminal is present. Switching function is provided by movable contacts shorting adjacent pairs of stationary contacts".

 

Something like this would be more suitable, assuming it meets current and voltage requirements:

https://au.element14.com/lorlin/ck1035/switch-2-pole-6-pos-0-15a-250v/dp/1123691

 

Something like this would be more suitable, assuming it meets current and voltage requirements:

https://au.element14.com/lorlin/ck1035/switch-2-pole-6-pos-0-15a-250v/dp/1123691

I don't know precisely what the current would be, I tried to measure it with a multimeter, but don't believe I had much luck. The perimeter wire is a thin gauge wire so the actual current has to be low, but I would still feel much better if the switch were rated for 1A or more.

 

I would expect the current to be very low and I would take the chance and use the 150mA switch, but always wise to over-engineer.

 

There are plenty of this sort of device, NOT this one but something similar :

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007749045842.html

I find it very difficult to get an accurate technical description of these items but the feature you ideally want is 'interlock' which means activating an output deactivates any other active one.

Also ideally DPDT relays, but most are SPDT which would be fine if you can common one side of your loops but to have completely isolated loops means you would need to use the wifi to switch double pole relays, as you propose with the 2P mechanical switch.

 

There are plenty of this sort of device, NOT this one but something similar :

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007749045842.html

I find it very difficult to get an accurate technical description of these items but the feature you ideally want is 'interlock' which means activating an output deactivates any other active one.

Also ideally DPDT relays, but most are SPDT which would be fine if you can common one side of your loops but to have completely isolated loops means you would need to use the wifi to switch double pole relays, as you propose with the 2P mechanical switch.

Yeah, I checked that out, but I think the problem with that is the input goes directly to the output by the looks of it.

 

...the input goes directly to the output....

What do you mean?

As far as I can see the relay outputs are isolated from the control circuit.

 

What do you mean?

As far as I can see the relay outputs are isolated from the control circuit.

The diagram, https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S957a2da1ee6949b4955cc19551e9215eE.jpg, seems to indicate that the input voltage is going directly to the output. It also seems to show a 5V input, I am not sure if that is all that is needed to power the device, or if that is meant to be a means to trigger the device.

 

The two 'input's in the diagram are different - one is input DC to power the board, and the other is input AC to power the load. Without much doubt the relay contacts are isolated from the control circuit.

 

Wow, don't take these diagrams too literally! The first has a feed of 7 - 32V AC or DC feeding both control supply and load, but the use of L and N as labels suggests strongly that it is main AC feed!!! Yikes! The second has confused you by labelling two different unrelated supplies as 'input', implying they are the same. The third shows 85-250V dc fed to the control supply which elsewhere is defined as taking 7-32V AC or DC. All very confusing and I think probably wrong.

 

Ok, further research on the AliExpress site etc (not my favourite occupation) and it seems that there are a variety of models - one of which powers from 7-32 ac/dc and one powers from 85-250V AC. The wiring diagram illustrated has economised on pixels and used the picture of the low voltage one to illustrate all wiring options.

It seems it supports interlock mode as well.

This might do the job for you. If you need DPDT relays then an additional four relays between the controller and the loops would answer.