I was referring to the run capacitor referred to the quote included in my post.

Not to my understanding. Current lags in an inductor (run winding). Current leads in a capacitor.

The run capacitor is in series with the start winding which doesn't have many turns, therefore it is less reactive. The capacitor stays energized and causes the phase angle of the starting winding to lead the run winding to a greater degree. It doesn't cause a lag.

 

Ok Guys,

I have the basic run-down of the start vs run capacitor... My plan of attack is to re-file the contact leads, and as soon as the replacement capacitor is in, hook everything back up.

I'll take the centrifugal switch apart in a month and see if there is any start to the pitting or signs of arcing that could result in the start capacitor overloading again.

Duane,

I tried searching for a start capacitor with about the same MFD rating (430-516), but a higher voltage rating and found zilch... Is this something that is possible...

or is this even appropriate to add a start capacitor to my machine that has a higher voltage rating?

 

Also,

Just fr sh*ts and giggles, and this might be a long shot... but I was wondering...

Cork ie, you were talking about a 110v system with 220v on a split system... I'm wondering if this is the true problem...

As in, I have two hots (+), and a ground/neutral (-) coming into the motor. Both (+) wires are at 110v service each.

One of the incoming (+) wires goes directly to the centrifugal switch... and then to the start winding?? While the second (+) wire connects to the run capacitor... and what I presume is the run winding.

Is this causing a problem as the motor is rated for 220v, and I have split service coming in at (2) 110v lines, that when the centrifugal switch is activated, I'm really only getting 110v, 30 amp of current into the unit?

(I apologize ahead of time if my use of the terms power/current/positive/etc are not accurate)

 

Also,

Just fr sh*ts and giggles, and this might be a long shot... but I was wondering...

Cork ie, you were talking about a 110v system with 220v on a split system... I'm wondering if this is the true problem...

As in, I have two hots (+), and a ground/neutral (-) coming into the motor. Both (+) wires are at 110v service each.

One of the incoming (+) wires goes directly to the centrifugal switch... and then to the start winding?? While the second (+) wire connects to the run capacitor... and what I presume is the run winding.

Is this causing a problem as the motor is rated for 220v, and I have split service coming in at (2) 110v lines, that when the centrifugal switch is activated, I'm really only getting 110v, 30 amp of current into the unit?

(I apologize ahead of time if my use of the terms power/current/positive/etc are not accurate)

I posted a wiring diagram in a previous thread:
#16
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49720&d=1355482687

 

L1 is 120 volts to neutral line. The same if you measure L2 to neutral line. L1 and L2 180 degrees out of phase. You get 240 volts across them. The starting winding is connected EITHER leg to center tap. It gets 120 volts of course. It doesn't matter to the motor if the center tap is tied to neutral.

 

Tinkerman,

Thanks, I had some trouble understanding what you were talking about in the earlier posting.

I think I have it now... The machine is back up and running thanks to overnight fed-ex, and I'm going to check the centrifugal switch in a month and see what things look like.

Thanks again to everyone for all of your support and advice.

-Paul

 

* And Sorry, I just realized a typo, the power to my shop is reading ~115v at the outlet, not '215v'

Thanks

These switches can't be repaired. the contacts are coated with a silver alloy that prevents them from sticking and yes if they stick the cap will blow. filing them just prolongs the agony and eventually the start winding will short and require a rewind. i have a dayton motor that runs a belt drive fan and this same thing happened. i live a few miles from nolt motor service and for $6 and change i got a new one and this was about 7 months ago and it still works.

K3CFC

 

Actually I think you'll find the whole contact is an alloy. I've filed conatcs many times without experiencing problems though it is better to replace. The picture shows fairly badly burned contacts which to me indicates it's breaking a heavy current. Perhaps the motor isn't starting as easily as it should or there are other issues inside the motor. I've seen start switches in use for years and not have this much burn. As an aside, switches are designed to have a small amount of wipe to keep the contacts clean. I wonder if the same problem may not show up in several months.