It's Positive lead on a N type and negative lead on a P type.

This way the other lead on C or E will show forward voltage drop.

Negative probe on a N type will reverse bias the junction. and so will a Positive probe on a P type.

In DMM, a positive voltage exists on the positive probe while in an Analog meter Positive voltage exists on the Negative probe

 

oh and another thing, before my stereo started smoking, I'd hear a loud "pop" come out of the speakers every time I "banged" on it, even if the volume was turned all the way down. I don't know if this has anthing to do with it tho.

 

Okay i have a manual now

 

okay well I'm having a hard time trying to upload the manual. the files too large

 

oh and another thing, before my stereo started smoking, I'd hear a loud "pop" come out of the speakers every time I "banged" on it, even if the volume was turned all the way down. I don't know if this has anthing to do with it tho.

That sounds like there was a loose connection to the speaker. Every time you "banged" on it, it would disconnect and reconnect, and send a surge of power to the speaker, causing it to "pop".

 

okay well I'm having a hard time trying to upload the manual. the files too large

If you have the manual in a pdf format and it is not locked, you can use adobe reader to take a screen shot of the schematic. Use the tool "take a snapshot" in the edit menu. Highlight the area you want. The area snapshot is then copied. Open up a program like MSPaint and paste the snapshot there. Save as a .png file and upload it here.

 

If you have the manual in a pdf format and it is not locked, you can use adobe reader to take a screen shot of the schematic. Use the tool "take a snapshot" in the edit menu. Highlight the area you want. The area snapshot is then copied. Open up a program like MSPaint and paste the snapshot there. Save as a .png file and upload it here.

everytime I try to save it, a message pops up that says that there isn't enough memory or resources.

 

can u attach it to my hotmail account. It's in my profile

 

I was just testing the four output transistors, and it turns out that one of them is bad. I also think that somebody replaced the original transistors with different ones

 

post all the transistor no.s so I can tell u which one to buy

U can test the biasing without the output transistors. But that is in some amps. I need to see the schematic

 

post all the transistor no.s so I can tell u which one to buy

U can test the biasing without the output transistors. But that is in some amps. I need to see the schematic

They are all supposed to be 2SD290 for the output transistors.

 

I need to see the schema.

 

I need to see the schema.

whats your email address.

 

click on my user name
and send me an email

 

click on my user name
and send me an email

yeah I tried doing that already, but I can't attatch any files

 

is ur PM turned on. PM me ur email first, I'll respond right now.

 

OK got it. lemme check and will get back to u within the hour.

 

OK..Take out or carefully de-solderer the 4 output transistors.

Check for physical damage in the components through out. If u see any smoked one, show me a clear picture of it.

If one output transistor is shorted, it is advisable to replace the other too.

Recently there are better SOA Audio out put devices available. I recommend that u buy those and use them instead of the old ones.

 

OK..Take out or carefully de-solderer the 4 output transistors.

Check for physical damage in the components through out. If u see any smoked one, show me a clear picture of it.

If one output transistor is shorted, it is advisable to replace the other too.

Recently there are better SOA Audio out put devices available. I recommend that u buy those and use them instead of the old ones.

srry, ill have to email the pictures to you, because they're too large to post on here

 

High Res if u like


Is that it? Any other burned components.?

Do u have the know how on soldering and voltage measurements buddy.