The speaker enclosure is designed for the spec's of the speaker in it. If you have 2 speakers in one enclosure then it will produce different sounding bass if it has 4 speakers in it and if it has 4 speakers in one enclosure then it will produce different sounding bass if it has only 2 of the speakers working.

I think an enclosure with 4 speakers but with only two of the speakers working will produce almost no bass because the speakers that are not working will seem like large holes in the enclosure.

Nothing will change within the cabinet—speakers will still be in, and used in some cases.

 

The speaker enclosure is designed for the spec's of the speaker in it. If you have 2 speakers in one enclosure then it will produce different sounding bass if it has 4 speakers in it and if it has 4 speakers in one enclosure then it will produce different sounding bass if it has only 2 of the speakers working.

I think an enclosure with 4 speakers but with only two of the speakers working will produce almost no bass because the speakers that are not working will seem like large holes in the enclosure.

It will likely sound different, but the two off speakers will act as passive radiators, not holes, so bass will be fine if not enhanced. Even if the two off speakers acted as holes, you'll still have bass. There are guitar cabinets designed this way called "detuned cabinets" where holes are cut for X amount of speakers and some are left as holes without a speaker.

But this does bring up a point that it's important to pay attention to the power rating of the speakers. A 4 x 12 will have 4 speakers sharing the power from the amp, but with 2, the 2 speakers will have to handle that same amount of power. Worse, with 2 less drivers, the volume will be reduced (possibly) causing you turn up louder than when all 4 speakers are active.

Again, this is fine as long as the two drivers can handle 2x your amp's rated output power.

 

I have never used a passive radiator but I think its mass and size also must be designed with the sound-producing speaker AND the enclosure. Otherwize it plays out-of-phase and cancels the bass.

A stereo guitar? Driving a vacuum tubes amplifier? A guitar does not produce deep bass anyway.
A vacuum tubes amplifier that produces LESS power when overloaded compared to a solid state amplifier producing more power into a lower load impedance.

 

A stereo guitar? Driving a vacuum tubes amplifier? A guitar does not produce deep bass anyway.

Huh, stereo guitar?

A vacuum tubes amplifier that produces LESS power when overloaded compared to a solid state amplifier producing more power into a lower load impedance.

You are right about this if by "overloaded" you meant 4 ohm cabinet on an 8 ohm tap; an "underloaded" impedance mismatch will also produce less power on a tube amp too. But that's not what I was saying.

If his 4 x 12" cab is for example rated for 240W then each speaker is rated for 60W. But when he would switch to 2 drivers those 2 drivers can only handle 120W.

He needs to be sure then that the amp he's using is rated 2x less than this at least, as a clipped signal contains 2x the power of a clean signal of the the same amplitude. In the above example, a 50W amp (leaving some headroom) would be safe but anything beyond that is "proceed at your own risk" territory. Just something that needs to be considered as guitar amps are made to distort.

 

Of course a guitar does not produce stereo.
Why use 2 or 4 cheap speakers in a huge enclosure instead of one much better speaker in a much smaller enclosure?
The better, smaller speaker system will sound much better.
Oh, they want it to sound awful (fuzz and overdrive), not better.

 

This is probably a high powered speaker for performances and 4 drivers are needed to handle the power.

The backs of guitar speakers are generally open, they are not sealed boxes designed for bass reproduction.

Bob

 

It will likely sound different, but the two off speakers will act as passive radiators, not holes, so bass will be fine if not enhanced. Even if the two off speakers acted as holes, you'll still have bass. There are guitar cabinets designed this way called "detuned cabinets" where holes are cut for X amount of speakers and some are left as holes without a speaker.

But this does bring up a point that it's important to pay attention to the power rating of the speakers. A 4 x 12 will have 4 speakers sharing the power from the amp, but with 2, the 2 speakers will have to handle that same amount of power. Worse, with 2 less drivers, the volume will be reduced (possibly) causing you turn up louder than when all 4 speakers are active.

Again, this is fine as long as the two drivers can handle 2x your amp's rated output power.

Thanks for that. In my case, the amp part is just some smaller combo amp heads. Nothing with any large power outputs.

 

Ok so the four large speakers are just for looks, like the solid state amplifier with some non-functioning vacuum tubes glowing on its top.

 

Ok so the four large speakers are just for looks, like the solid state amplifier with some non-functioning vacuum tubes glowing on its top.

LOL No, but I do actually have 4 fake stacks of amplifiers and cabinets—for “looks”...I built them for my 80s rock band reunion...they are 1 and-a-half inches thick...LOL
Yes in most cases, a 2 x 12 cabinet would be better; two of them and there you’d have the 4-12s that I already have. I finally got it solved, and now I have the best of both, in one cabinet. Less to move, lighter overall...So when I play a show and feel the need to just use the top two speakers angled toward me, I flip a toggle switch and it’s done. If I decide I need the 4 speakers, flip the switch and it’s done. Odd yes, but it works for me.

 

Audioguru, take a look:

You did not post a photo.

 

You did not post a photo.

Tried to post a pic but said too large...sorry.

 

Hello,

@robismod , What was the size of the picture?
Can you scale it, so it is smaller?
A paint like program might already do that.

Bertus

 

Hello,

@robismod , What was the size of the picture?
Can you scale it, so it is smaller?
A paint like program might already do that.

Bertus

Not a clue about the size as I do this on my phone...maybe when I finally get on my main computer I can fix it. Thanks.

 

I think I was able to reduce a pic.

 

I was able to resolve my cabinet/speakers issue with the help of a local tube amp guru’s guidance. Basically a DPDT center off switch was installed in the wiring and it works great. Thanks to all for your help.

 

I think a fundamental point is being missed. If the speakers are 16-Ohm impedance, they need to be driven at 16-Ohm. They are current devices. Allowing more current can damage them, and less current will be detrimental to sound quality.

 

I think a fundamental point is being missed. If the speakers are 16-Ohm impedance, they need to be driven at 16-Ohm. They are current devices. Allowing more current can damage them, and less current will be detrimental to sound quality.

What do ypu mean by “driven at 16 Ohms?

You drive speakers with a voltage, the current follows by Ohm’s law.

Bob

 

I think a fundamental point is being missed. If the speakers are 16-Ohm impedance, they need to be driven at 16-Ohm. They are current devices. Allowing more current can damage them, and less current will be detrimental to sound quality.

True, but there is no problem with overcurrent, it’s now at either 8ohms or 16ohms, depending on the switch position. Yes the sound changed a bit—less bottom naturally, but not a significant difference for the purpose I need. If I need that difference in bottom frequencies, I can always flip the switch and I’m back at 16 ohms. One guitar amp I use is output for 8ohms; another I may use is selectable I believe between, 4,8,or 16...