Seriously, this is what sidecars or trike conversions are made for. I thought this whole thing was for a parking 'lift', not a activation to keep from falling. Imagine this thing mistakenly activating at speed?????

 

Seriously, this is what sidecars or trike conversions are made for. I thought this whole thing was for a parking 'lift', not a activation to keep from falling. Imagine this thing mistakenly activating at speed?????

Same first thoughts here.

Given my old Kawasaki 750 weighs in at 500+ pounds getting the main stand down is a bit of work even for my healthy 260# self and back when I rode it a lot I often thought of putting a power assist on it given the small side stand was useless on anything but solid concert as I found out after the first week of owning it. I had it tip itself over several times just from the stand sinking into hot pavement while parked.

Now as for the OP wanting to deploy high speed bogie wheels on the go just screams bad idea for too many reasons.

#1 being the obvious indication that the rider is likely not actually capable handling the bike properly at low speed.
Second to that is the reactive mass loads of those wheels going up and down.
Third is the highly plausible possibility of them deploying against a curb or high point or object thus forcing bike and rider over.
Fourth is the overall added clearance issues involved in how they could be mounted to the bike.

Way back when I learned to ride motorcycle the #1 rule to safe riding was, Never ride a machine that is beyond your abilities to handle. If it's too big, too powerful, too heavy, too unstable, too whatever to feel comfortable and be handled by you in all possible situations and conditions keep your butt off the seat.

 

Same first thoughts here.

Given my old Kawasaki 750 weighs in at 500+ pounds getting the main stand down is a bit of work even for my healthy 260# self and back when I rode it a lot I often thought of putting a power assist on it given the small side stand was useless on anything but solid concert as I found out after the first week of owning it. I had it tip itself over several times just from the stand sinking into hot pavement while parked.

Now as for the OP wanting to deploy high speed bogie wheels on the go just screams bad idea for too many reasons.

#1 being the obvious indication that the rider is likely not actually capable handling the bike properly at low speed.
Second to that is the reactive mass loads of those wheels going up and down.
Third is the highly plausible possibility of them deploying against a curb or high point or object thus forcing bike and rider over.
Fourth is the overall added clearance issues involved in how they could be mounted to the bike.

Way back when I learned to ride motorcycle the #1 rule to safe riding was, Never ride a machine that is beyond your abilities to handle. If it's too big, too powerful, too heavy, too unstable, too whatever to feel comfortable and be handled by you in all possible situations and conditions keep your butt off the seat.

Jockey wheels on motorbikes are quite common. You can buy a kit for about $us 5000, plus fitting.
older guys that me, or those with bad knees etc, like to continue to ride. They seem to do OK
with the kits-or you can convert to a trike. Not so much fun, I think, but less chance of problems,
no lift-transition hassles (can take a while to learn). Fully enclosed motorcycles are also an application,
though not highly popular.

I was thinking of keeping the jockey wheel/arms, but building a mechanism I can make at home, with less
expensive bits. I was thinking gravity drop, ratchet/rack type locking, dog-clutched rope/chain pull-out,
and wind back like a chain hoist or cable drum. I will google these items and see if there are any
of-the-shelf co

Same first thoughts here.

Given my old Kawasaki 750 weighs in at 500+ pounds getting the main stand down is a bit of work even for my healthy 260# self and back when I rode it a lot I often thought of putting a power assist on it given the small side stand was useless on anything but solid concert as I found out after the first week of owning it. I had it tip itself over several times just from the stand sinking into hot pavement while parked.

Now as for the OP wanting to deploy high speed bogie wheels on the go just screams bad idea for too many reasons.

#1 being the obvious indication that the rider is likely not actually capable handling the bike properly at low speed.
Second to that is the reactive mass loads of those wheels going up and down.
Third is the highly plausible possibility of them deploying against a curb or high point or object thus forcing bike and rider over.
Fourth is the overall added clearance issues involved in how they could be mounted to the bike.

Way back when I learned to ride motorcycle the #1 rule to safe riding was, Never ride a machine that is beyond your abilities to handle. If it's too big, too powerful, too heavy, too unstable, too whatever to feel comfortable and be handled by you in all possible situations and conditions keep your butt off the seat.

Jockey wheels are quite common, specially older guys who want to keep riding. A kit is about $US 5000
plus fitting. There are also fully enclosed motorcycles, which need it. The transition takes a while to learn
-it is quite tricky. The Peraves people use "training wheels" to stop tipovers while you are learning.

I like the idea of jockey wheels, but would like to design a mechanism that costs less and that I can put
together with my existing tools. The general idea is:
1) gravity drop.
2) rope or chain pull-out.
3) lifting drive declutching-dog clutch?
4) linear rack or ratchet locking brake.
The lifting drive can operate over 10 seconds or so, with a 30 to 1 reduction or so
as appropriate, with simple relay /switch control.
The ratchet brake is to avoid the need to "gear up" a friction brake. It has more
grip force resistance (1200 lbs + ?)
I still need to run the activating mechanism at 2:1 or 3:1 to fit things in.

I will Google for any of-the-shelf components that may be useful.
Deployment to be by pull-rope or pull-lever set well away from other controls.
Locking down is done by separate controls-maybe a handbrake lever?
It is up to the rider not to deploy and lock the jockey wheels at too high a speed,
or when approaching a sharp corner.

*** whoops - I have written most of that out twice. I thought I had lost the first one***

 

Jockey wheels on motorbikes are quite common.

This is the most relevant video information I could find.

The better versions appear to be pneumatic so that they have some give rather than rigid as well.

I don't see any 11 inch wheels nor anything that could possibly support 1200 pounds and I have no clue where the other stuff you mention would come into play being all of these seem to be manual deploy systems only the rider has control over when they want it.

 

This is the most relevant video information I could find.

The better versions appear to be pneumatic so that they have some give rather than rigid as well.

I don't see any 11 inch wheels nor anything that could possibly support 1200 pounds and I have no clue where the other stuff you mention would come into play being all of these seem to be manual deploy systems only the rider has control over when they want it.

I definitely think that auto-deploy is a bad idea, it is just the idea of running off a handlebar pushbutton that is not so good as well.
That is why many systems have a microcontroller and GPS speed lockout.

The loading I was looking at was 400 lbs. The reviews of those solid rubber tires say they top out at around 200 lbs, despite the manufacturers
rating. I would prefer something pneumatic, with a good quality steel rim and tire, like off a ride-on mower.
If you park it side-on on a sloping road the load can get up a bit. Otherwise, the GL7-HM unit looks well made.
On a totally flat surface at stand-still the loading is only going to be around 40 lbs maximum-about what you can steady with your feet.
Also, if the unit is still deployed while cornering at a city intersection, almost all the rear weight can be transferred to one side.
That can hit 400 lbs( 220 kgs) on a 400kg bike with luggage, a rider, and a pillion passenger.
In fact, I can imagine potential rear outside tire loading being over 300 kgs if you corner a little quickly at a city intersection
with a heavy load.

 

Then why do you think you need 280mm of travel? Does your bikes frame sit 280mm above the ground? You need to do some drawing in full scale on this before starting to gather up parts and bits. A roll of butchers paper and a pencil is cheaper than the parts will be.

As far as the three wheelers not being as much fun, I think that's a wrong idea. I took a test drive on a CanAm Spyder, and if I wasn't a retired 69 year old guy on a very fixed income, I'd buy one in a minute. I also rode in a Polaris Slingshot, and that was even more fun than the Spyder. I fact I'm seriously designing a reverse trike front end for one of my Harley's.

https://can-am.brp.com/spyder/?redirect=false
http://www.polaris.com/en-us/slingshot

 

Also, if the unit is still deployed while cornering at a city intersection, almost all the rear weight can be transferred to one side.
That can hit 400 lbs( 220 kgs) on a 400kg bike with luggage, a rider, and a pillion passenger.
In fact, I can imagine potential rear outside tire loading being over 300 kgs if you corner a little quickly at a city intersection
with a heavy load.

Pretty sure if you're driving like that with the casters down and not realizing it you're at the point in life you are not in fact in total awareness or control of the motorcycle.

That and trying to turn a corner, with such a narrow fixed multipoint rear footprint, without the bike being able to properly and naturally lean into the corner will make its handling as unstable as hell too being the gyroscopic forces that keep it up will try and pick up both the outside caster, plus if high enough, the main rear wheel too thus uncoupling your power from the ground and letting the wheel accelerate momentarily before involuntary overcorrection on the riders part brings it down to the ground again but with possibly far more speed and power behind it than is realized thus leading to more possible over corrections to the point of a possible accident happening.

I am not trying to be rude but the fact is as a person with a full class A CDL with certifications and endorsements behind it for pretty much everything now I take the qualifications of being on the road very serious as a privilege not a right. Which means if I have to put an active effort into keeping my licence vehicles I operate and my skills up to date everyone else has to as well so when people start talking about how to design 'cheats' to help them stay on the road and in control of whatever they are driving I say it's time they get off the road for the sake and safety of everyone else.

Simply put, if you and whatever modifications you make to your mode of transportation, plus general skills, could not pass a standard applicable driving test and related safety inspection at any time you are not in fact qualified to be on the road with me or anyone else.

At this point I am pulling out of the thread, for now. Maybe someone else will help you design this system but to me there are already too many red flags saying what you are wanting to do and how and why you want to do it are beyond safe or responsible.

 

Then why do you think you need 280mm of travel? Does your bikes frame sit 280mm above the ground? You need to do some drawing in full scale on this before starting to gather up parts and bits. A roll of butchers paper and a pencil is cheaper than the parts will be.

As far as the three wheelers not being as much fun, I think that's a wrong idea. I took a test drive on a CanAm Spyder, and if I wasn't a retired 69 year old guy on a very fixed income, I'd buy one in a minute. I also rode in a Polaris Slingshot, and that was even more fun than the Spyder. I fact I'm seriously designing a reverse trike front end for one of my Harley's.

https://can-am.brp.com/spyder/?redirect=false
http://www.polaris.com/en-us/slingshot

the 280mm was due to a levering ratio, needed to fit the mechanism in. Actual wheel travel is
more like 900mm. This depends on the jockey wheel spacing, and how far below level I want to go.
I was thinking an extra 15 degrees down of ground slope, and 45 degrees up of lean angle,
at half the full rear wheel travel. If I get the width spacing under a meter, jockey travel only needs to be
around 600 mm to give full cornering clearance. This system could easily be adapted to a "quad-trike"
layout, by spacing the wheels out further, using proper car-type wheels and hubs, and replacing the retracting
actuator with a spring/shock unit. I think 1.5 meters spacing would do.

 

Like TCM, I think this will be my last post to this. Not to discourage or tell you what to do, but it seems to me that you don't have the necessary skills to design this. As someone who has rode motorcycles most of his life, and built cars from scratch(hot rods), you don't seem to or at least don't come across as knowing what your doing or how to go about it. Stuff like this requires a lot of skill and practical engineering. It's not as simple as you seem to think it is. The tell was when you started with a 10mm screw to support a load like your trying to do, and trying to do it for around $100. Sorry and good luck.

 

Like TCM, I think this will be my last post to this. Not to discourage or tell you what to do, but it seems to me that you don't have the necessary skills to design this. As someone who has rode motorcycles most of his life, and built cars from scratch(hot rods), you don't seem to or at least don't come across as knowing what your doing or how to go about it. Stuff like this requires a lot of skill and practical engineering. It's not as simple as you seem to think it is. The tell was when you started with a 10mm screw to support a load like your trying to do, and trying to do it for around $100. Sorry and good luck.

That was someone else. I was suggesting a 20mm ballscrew, and the $100 was for one motor.
The entire cost would be much more than that. I have the skills and training, but insufficient income
to implement anything this complex. Anyhow, I am putting my efforts towards just buying a second-hand
motorbike, and won't have anything left over for "enhancements".
All these little projects go into folders, computer files, and my blog for now.

 

I am starting a new thread as the topic has drifted a bit- to
lift and lock drive system for motorcycle jockey wheels??
__
Owen