Does the Samsung have a headphone jack ?

No. There IS a 3.5mm jack but it's not for headphones. (see post #1)

there's even a 3.5mm jack. I don't know if it's for headphones or for something else.

It seems EX-LINK is for mostly service technicians. So that seems like it's not a headphones jack.

 

Here's the new problem: The TV remote does not control the stereo.

Is this just to turn the stereo ON and OFF?

 

Is this just to turn the stereo ON and OFF?

Have to turn the stereo on manually. Can't adjust volume from the TV. Must set TV speaker output to HDMI (ARC). There is no controlling the stereo with the TV remote. It's not a universal type. I might have an old universal remote from DirecTV that probably can control the stereo.

Unlike the TV upstairs, it is connected via BlueTooth to a sound bar. That is controlled by the TV remote.

 

Have to turn the stereo on manually. Can't adjust volume from the TV. Must set TV speaker output to HDMI (ARC). There is no controlling the stereo with the TV remote.

Fortunately I have a headphone jack on my TV connected to an older stereo.
I leave the stereo on 24-7 and have a relay circuit that switches the speakers ON when the TV is ON.
I use the blue LED on the front of the DirectTV converter to activate the circuit.
Maybe you could do something similar to control your stereo either switching power or speakers if a remote is not available.

 

I tried plugging the HDMI into the HDMI OUT. That made no sense.

With the mode switch set to TV it worked. Seems backwards to me

Actually it makes sense.
The HDMI out of the module carries the HDMI video/audio signal to the TV (if there's an HDMI signal to the input of the module).
But after the TV extracts the digital audio from the HDMI signal, it sends it back from input to output, as an ARC audio signal to the module.

Since the HDMI cable designers decided not to differentiate the input connector from the output connector, this type of confusion is not uncommon.

Clear as mud, right?

 

But that stereo is over 25 years old.

Is it actually designed and able to be remote-controlled?

 

Here's the new problem: The TV remote does not control the stereo.

The e-manual for your TV says it has some universal remote control functions.
Have you tried to use that?

 

Actually it makes sense.
The HDMI out of the module carries the HDMI video/audio signal to the TV (if there's an HDMI signal to the input of the module).
But after the TV extracts the digital audio from the HDMI signal, it sends it back from input to output, as an ARC audio signal to the module.

Since the HDMI cable designers decided not to differentiate the input connector from the output connector, this type of confusion is not uncommon.

Clear as mud, right?

Actually that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the clarification. Now I know a little more about it all. But I still don't know why the first converter had that ticking sound. But that's not important.

Is it actually designed and able to be remote-controlled?

Yes. In fact since I can't find the original remote, I found the exact replacement on Amazon. For $108.99 (US). With some investigation I managed to find a remote that can do the same thing for $17.00.

The e-manual for your TV says it has some universal remote control functions.
Have you tried to use that?

Here's the funny part: I have a habit of hanging onto things. An older DirecTV remote and a Comcast (Xfinity) remote. Both remotes are designed to be able to control other things as well. Such as a sound system, VDR (DVD), cable box, gaming box. Both of these remotes will turn the stereo ON and OFF. One will control volume of just the stereo and the other will control both TV and stereo volume. The other will control higher functions of the stereo; the preset equalizer. This remote also can choose the input source; Tuner, Tape, CD player, Phono and Video. However, when it hits CD it gets stuck. The changer is a 5 CD changer and you have to wait for it to go through all five empty slots. But for some reason (not important to me) once it's on CD it won't go any further. I have to manually hit the function button to move past that.

I don't play tapes or CD's and rarely listen to radio broadcasts. But in summary to the comment about using a relay to switch the speakers on and off - I could use one of the two USB-A ports to trigger a small relay and turn the speakers on. But I haven't checked to see if those USB's are constant powered or only powered when the TV is on. An interesting approach, but I don't think I need to go that far. Besides, I've ordered the newer remote. If it works well then I don' need any other options.

 

I still don't know why the first converter had that ticking sound.

As I recall, mine also generated some sort of ticking sound when the optical output format was other than PCM (which is an uncompressed stereo signal).