Hello All,

New to the forum.

I have an air compressor from Silentaire.

http://www.silentaire.com/silentaire/index.asp

I use the compressor for my air bearing tone arm. However, the compressor makes popping noise through my audio system. I plugged the compressor in different power outlet but the main power is same as the audio system. There is no other options for me to use different power main.

The popping noise may come from the pressure switch of air compressor, or from the motor of air compressor. I have tried solid state relay to replace the pressure switch, it doesn’t work. I also used two Red Lion RC snubbers to cross the switch and the motor. Nothing works.

Can anyone suggest a solution for me?

Thank you in advance!

Jim

 

RFI LC filter on the AC lines?

 

Thank you for your input!

I have very little knowledge in electronics. Can you recommend a filter?

 

Not really...it involves a lot of testing to determine the frequency and other factors.

 

Can you not place the compressor completely away from the area on a different branch circuit, and then run an air line where needed?
You don't mention the gear your using but the line it is on may need conditioning.

Why don't you purchase a long extension cord and just test with different outlets and see if that helps.
Please post back some pictures of the gear and the setup if you can, I'll try and help.

Oh and this for your expensive audio gear if the electrical is all on one circuit;
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Double-Conversion-Rackmount-SU1500RTXLCD2U/dp/B008L2VUKI

 

It could very well be vibration when the compressor shuts off or turns on, or both.

try putting it on a chair cushion to see if the vibrations are less.

The compressor may not have an "unloader" where there is a small amout of air that's released between the motor and a check valve, so the motor doesn't start loaded.

You failed to mention which compressor your using, but diaphram might be the best.

 

Oh and this for your expensive audio gear if the electrical is all on one circuit;
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Double-Conversion-Rackmount-SU1500RTXLCD2U/dp/B008L2VUKI

Probably the wrong conditioner.

I urge you to look at part 1, 2 and 3 of this video.

All I can tell you is that I used one of their conditioners and an Isobar and kept a critical process running for 17 years until the equipment was upgraded. The Hard drive lasted 17 years. The only real trouble was floppies and dust. The conditioning stayed and I bought more.

 

iZotope RX is the industry standard as it has an essential noise reduction and sound restoration toolkits, as well as access to the spectrogram.But any fingerprint style noise reduction should be able to improve it.

 

I'm wondering if a ferrite bead on the power line might solve the problem.

You say the compressor is introducing a popping noise into your audio. Many answers before me seem to think it has to do with something mechanical, whereas I'm thinking it has to do with electrical switching. Of course I don't know exactly what's going on, but I think it has to do with the switching on and off of your compressor.

A different possible solution would be to use a large air storage tank. That way your compressor has to run much longer to charge the tank but then it's off for a much longer time as well. That would reduce the amount of popping but it won't eliminate it.

I've used old water softener tanks as compressed air tanks. The ones I use are rated to handle 150 PSI at 250˚ F. I think they can handle up to 200 PSI at 72˚ F. Think I read that somewhere. Anyway, I never charge my tanks above 125 PSI. Having worked in the steel industry for a few years making water tanks and such, their rated pressures are well below their burst levels. While many here will suggest using double the rating, saying that if you're going to charge to 125 PSI then you should use a tank rated for 250 PSI, and that's generally a good practice, but knowing as I do that tank rated pressures have their safety margins built into them. Some tanks are built to a certain rating but their yield strength may be 133% of their operating pressure while other, more critical tanks may yield at 150% of their operating pressure.

Not sure what an air bearing arm is, but I'm going to guess it doesn't require 125 PSI. Still, a tank charged to 100 PSI and regulated at the proper operating pressure CAN keep your compressor quiet for a long time. Suppose your operating pressure is 10 PSI. A 125 PSI charge in a 20 gallon tank will last pretty darn long. Depending on the size of your compressor it may take longer to charge back up, but again, it's off for quite a while.

Food for thought.

Peace.

 

Personally, I use the California Air Tools 5510SE ultra quiet air compressor. It is really the best quiet air compressor. Because this compressor produces only 60 dB of sound. It is also the best model for its portability. The California Air Tools 5510SE will be able to deliver 120 psi max of pressure and 3.10 CFM at 40 psi & 2.20 CFM at 90 psi of compressed air. To see more about How to choose the Best quiet air compressor and Buying Guide, anyone can visit https://bestaircompressorstore.com/best-quiet-air-compressor-reviews-2017-2018/

Thank you