Hi everyone!
I'm new to electronics but I was hoping you all as the experts could help.

I am doing a headlight retrofit and was planning to solder these two wires (below) but after stripping one of them it looks like one is copper and the other is aluminum? Could the silver wire be anything else other than aluminum?

I'm new to soldering but if it is aluminum and copper how should I join these two? As I understand, solder is now out if the question due to galvanic corrosion.

These headlights are going to be sealed once I'm done so it needs to be done right and only once. Thoughts? Thanks guys.

 

... not 100% certain, but it seems that aluminum wire would be a solid wire. The stranded wire pictured is likely some alloy consisting of various metals that would accept solder with no problem. The use of an appropriate liquid solder flux may improve the quality of the connection.

 

I agree. I think it's unlikely that is aluminum. I'd try tinning it with solder and if that goes well, you're good to go.

 

Could the silver wire be anything else other than aluminum?

I'm going to guess that its tinned copper.

 

Yep, tin plated copper. There is silver plated copper wire too.

Warning if your planning to use some sort of RTV, use the one for electronics which won't contain acetic acid.
Flux removal is important to prevent corrosion.

At one point I used some commercial products that were soldered with 60/40 and Sn96 solder. I had to boil the parts in baking soda and gold plate them before i could use them at 200 C.

In a car, watch flexing. I had those rotating headlights in a vehicle. I used test probe wire because those wires broke.

 

Can you use a crimped splice? There are two types: regular and those sealed against moisture. Typically, one would stagger the splices and then wrap with a good automotive tape -- not your typical vinyl black tape whose adhesive turns to goo. Another option is an insulation displacement splice (IDC) splice. 3M makes a large variety of them. Again, yo can also get sealed versions. Here's an example:


BTW, that is probably what would be done today at a factory. One rarely sees wires spliced by soldering in cars.

 

It is sometimes possible to solder the two together (if this turns out to be aluminum) you you have to work fast -samd or otherwise clean the aluminum and immediately cover the surface with flux or light oil because bare aluminum oxidizes very quickly. make sure teh copper part is clean as well and then proceed to solder using a good, hot, powerful soldering iron. Do a "pull test" to make sure the joint is strong, otherwise, do it again.

If crimping, clean the contacts and use anti-oxidation paste.

 

Awesome guys! Thanks so much for the insights. Sounds like I just need to tin the wires as a double check , then I'm good to go. No additional flux or anything else needed other than the solder?

 

No additional flux or anything else needed other than the solder?

The solder in the picture has a rosin flux core. I prefer 63/37 (easier to not make cold joints), but 60/40 is okay.

 

Good to know. I'll go exchange it tomorrow.

 

Good to know. I'll go exchange it tomorrow.

It's not really that big of a deal. Just make sure you don't let the solder joint move until it has solidified.

 

in my opinion, 63./37 is best for soldering of surface mount components. 60/40 has been a staple for a LONG TIME.

With 63/37 the solidus and liquidus points are the same so it melts and solidifies instantly. It make sit easy to drag the solder across the pins without shorting the pins together. You would probably want a smaller diameter for SMT stuff.

With 63/37 you have to hold the joint still for a while while it's cooling.

There's no point in exchanging 60/40 for 63/37.