What kind works out the best?

Stripboard, 2 hole or breadboard matching?

http://www.busboard.com/SB400

That's a bread board match kind for clearness.

Parts house sent us wrong one as a side note.

Very first one I've ever gotten and they send the wrong one!

Far out!

 

Addendum.

First project would be 'Programming Board'.

Six pin ICSP connecter to 40 pin ZIFF socket for PIC MCU.

Just so we don't have loose jumper wire in the middle of doing something.

 

What kind works out the best?

Stripboard, 2 hole or breadboard matching?

Very subjective...

I personally don't like breadboard matching boards. There's no opportunity for optimizing wiring. Easy to transfer a design from a solderless breadboard, but not very aesthetically pleasing.

When I do point to point wiring, I usually use perf board (no pads) after using something like Eagle to place and route the components.

 

I've done much work using these boards. They can be quite useful for DIP devices, and even SOIC and other SMD parts if you use adapter boards to wiggle the pins back into 0.1" centers.

Lately I have switch to using boards such as these. I stock many sizes in my bins. The advantage I see is being able to place parts wherever convenient, not limited to just the central strip. I wire point to point with 30 AWG wire made for wire wrapping as there are excellent strippers available for this size wire. Of course larger wires are used where needed, and I do have some larger solid wire I use for power supply buses.

Also, these boards are of better construction with plated thru holes that take some abuse. The lands on board you have are quite easy to lift off the board (which can be worked to your advantage).

Do clean this board before you use it as the raw copper oxidizes rapidly. A quick scrub with some steel wool till it is bright will greatly help you solder to them.

 

A breadboard with a ground plane is desirable for sensitive circuits or switched-mode power supplies.

 

My favorite generally is Vero/strip board for one of the most universal types, http://www.futurlec.com/ProtoBoards.shtml, half way down.
Max.

 

I generally use the hole by hole cheapo perf board (no traces) and then generally make connections via small gauge wire or a solder bridge. The boards with power rails can be handy, but if you plan ahead, making this rail with solder bridges is pretty easy and allows you to place it wherever necessary. As previously mentioned, there are some surface mount parts that work very well on perf board, and others that are very difficult, so choose carefully.

One of my biggest gripes with the traditional perfboard is the tendency of the litle pads to pull off of the substrate, particularily when replacing parts or modifying solder joints (which is bound to happen on proto work). I really like the look of the boards @ErnieM posted, the plated through holes look to be much more robust.

 

One of my biggest gripes with the traditional perfboard is the tendency of the litle pads to pull off of the substrate, particularily when replacing parts or modifying solder joints (which is bound to happen on proto work). I really like the look of the boards @ErnieM posted, the plated through holes look to be much more robust.

They are very good boards, I don't think I have ever accidentally lifted a pad. They come in many many sizes (2 x 8, 3 x 7, 4 x 6, 5 x 7, 6 x 8, 7 x 9, 8 x 12, 9 x 15, 12 x 18, and 15 x 20 cm) and I keep stock in every size.

I order in advance as the free shipping from China can take 2-3 weeks. Don't know their origin but many vendors carry the identicle boards.

Comes in very handy.

 

I will second the boards that ErnieM has shown. Just used them in a "learn to solder" class and they were a great success. The boards were very resilient.

 

I started a similar thread a while back and you'll find similar answers (from the same players!) there as here.

I use boards like the ones linked in #4 and I'm very, very pleased with how they perform. Soldering is easy, the boards are strong and reasonably precise in their dimensions. Never had a problem with one.

I even have PCB layout drawing files with these boards as templates so it's easy to get going. For example:

 

Wayne

Looking at the drawing of yours made me think of something.

Maybe I should use the solderable breadboards like solderless breadboards.

Then work up to a 'tight' type building.

 

Wayne

Looking at the drawing of yours made me think of something.

Maybe I should use the solderable breadboards like solderless breadboards.

Then work up to a 'tight' type building.

 

Have you actually tried Vero/stripboard?
If so, what do you have against it?
Max.

 

If you're asking me, no I haven't tried it yet. I may never get around to it, frankly. I have an inventory of the green boards and I really like how they work out. The possibility of reducing the time spent wiring and connecting would be my only incentive to try something else.

 

I was actually directing it to the OP, but I have used both and the strip board seems so much faster.
There are actually some software geared to this method for layout, some free.
Max.

 

Thank you Wayne and Max

To be more accurate.

I had better do it 'loose style'.

Loop a resistor high in the air. Do same with wire leads. Do everything on top.

Breadboard style.

I mispoke about it having to be breadboard duplicate type breadboard.

All solderable breadboards will work.