I would use the LEAD/TIn solder because it is a better product that works better. AND I have no sympathy for the fools who eat circuit boards with lead solder on them.

No lead to lead is sometimes a bad idea because of a type of de-plating. Only thing is if the solder needs to be a higher temp. So if cold solder joints form over time, you might want to try a silver bearing type.

 

"Cold Solder Joints" are only formed during or very shortly after the soldering process. After that mechanical failure may happen because of an inadequate soldering process, but it is not a cold solder joint.

 

"Cold Solder Joints" are only formed during or very shortly after the soldering process. After that mechanical failure may happen because of an inadequate soldering process, but it is not a cold solder joint.

There are several ways a solder joint can go cold besides improper soldering. Mechanical Stress is one, and thermal shock is another.

 

There are several ways a solder joint can go cold besides improper soldering. Mechanical Stress is one, and thermal shock is another.

Those will certainly be FAILED solder joints, no argument about that. BUT a cold soldered joint is a very specific fault, caused by a specific set of errors.
So please avoid using an incorrect description for the failure.
There are many ways that a solder connection can be defective, and they tend to have different causes. Without knowing the cause of a failure it is much more difficult to revise the process to avoid future failures. This is the reason that I tend to push for accurate descriptions of failures. When the correct words are available it is most beneficial to provide correct descriptions.

 

Those will certainly be FAILED solder joints, no argument about that. BUT a cold soldered joint is a very specific fault, caused by a specific set of errors.
So please avoid using an incorrect description for the failure.
There are many ways that a solder connection can be defective, and they tend to have different causes. Without knowing the cause of a failure it is much more difficult to revise the process to avoid future failures. This is the reason that I tend to push for accurate descriptions of failures. When the correct words are available it is most beneficial to provide correct descriptions.

If you want to analyze what specifically caused it in your case, go ahead. But I would have to say most likely the bulb was put in a fixture that didn't have decent ventilation and through several cycles of heating and cooling crystalized the joints. Which is how a cold solder joints forms by thermal shock. Most of the incandescent replacement ones I've encounter went bad in fixtures having glass globes and sealed glass globe outdoor fixtures. The crimped candelabra ones on the ceiling fan, I would have to say it was more of a mechanical failure due to vibration because they are crimped instead of solder. That is what I came into conclusion on the ones that failed on me.

 

So please avoid using an incorrect description for the failure.

I never did, and since your lightbulb is different from the original poster, logically, it should be addressed in a different thread.
SO please avoid adding a side issue with something else entirely in a thread that may or may not be related.

 

It's great to see that @LadySpark , who joined just three weeks ago, has quickly learned the argumentative, condescending ways of this forum, which also include endless debates not central to the original poster's question or level of knowledge.

 

It's great to see that @LadySpark , who joined just three weeks ago, has quickly learned the argumentative, condescending ways of this forum, which also include endless debates not central to the original poster's question or level of knowledge.

Well the asshat that has been bothering me when I post is going to figure out I don't put up with it. Know matter who they are.