Can you get close-up shots of the capacitors in this set? Perhaps a profile view. If you have caps with bulged tops, I'm betting you can type in that TV model number, and find a complete set of caps on EBAY fro next to nothing. More than likely, that would cure your problem but we need to stick to science. Pics first.

 

If you are getting 9V from the small transformer then you should see the stby LED lit.
Are any LED lets lit or does the set respond to button press or remote. Press the front power button after applying power and see if any leds are blinking.

 

If you are getting 9V from the small transformer then you should see the stby LED lit.
Are any LED lets lit or does the set respond to button press or remote. Press the front power button after applying power and see if any leds are blinking.

It don't have any leds on the bord. I went in front of TV and checked also it only have one transparent hole and that is for remote receiver. When I on the power a sound comes just like when TV on. Before I click power button the filter capacitor voltage is zero. When I on it goes to 25v DC.

 

It don't have any leds on the bord. I went in front of TV and checked also it only have one transparent hole and that is for remote receiver. When I on the power a sound comes just like when TV on. Before I click power button the filter capacitor voltage is zero. When I on it goes to 25v DC.

Sorry I forgot to mention the 9v I am getting is not from big transformer which is on right yellow colour. The small lack transformer is a driver transformer for HOT I guess.

 

Check the low value resistors in the PSU area.
The big white ones. You might need to desolder them to confirm they are OK

 

To the OP.( I got a PM from OP)
We are not here to help thru emails. It will defeat the purpose of AAC.
The thread will help a lot of people beside you.

I can help you but the photo's you post are not good enough for me to guide you.
I need good close up with good lighting around the PSU area from both sides.

 

Are you sure there are no LED's on the front panel

 

The main issue with the pictures is they are of low res. I zoom in and all I see is square pixels. I cannot make out the track details.
Unless you provide good pictures that I can zoom in I cannot properly tell you what to do.

 

Can I check low valr

Check the low value resistors in the PSU area.
The big white ones. You might need to desolder them to confirm they are OK

istors

Are you sure there are no LED's on the front panel

Yes I am sure there is led indicator. I just checked the white low value resistors all are good. Checked after removing one leg and with multimeter gave correct values. I am going to take pictures for you now.

 

See the PDF.
I need to see the area in the red square.
Good resolution from both sides with good lighting.

 

Yes that right side big transformer is getting AC current direct from the input. and it outputting 9V DC after diodes.
What i am asking is why am i not getting 150vDC near filter capacitor? i am only getting 25V DC near big filter capacitor. if the capacitor internal resistance increase does voltage drop? is that big capacitor is the problem.

i have studied all the risk and safety dealing with the television before i opened it. i bet my in-laws that with i can fix the TV. so i want to try my fullest best to prove that i can do that. so please help me guys.

The rectifier/reservoir electrolytics do occasionally go bad, but during my time in servicing I didn't encounter all that many - probably less in total than the series pairs used in voltage doubling rectifiers in PSUs - schools and colleges attract vandals that switch the voltage over to 110 so it goes bang when someone plugs it in.

The TV PCB shows signs of having a combined flyback/PSU, so the reservoir has to handle both twice mains frequency ripple and horizontal frequency pulses of current draw, so it does work hard.

9V is rather lower than I'd expect to be caused by a dud reservoir, but to lose that much voltage I'd expect some evidence of high dissipation or arcing further upstream. DMMs have AC ranges and DC ranges, DC with a lot of ripple might not read correctly - but I'd be surprised at that big an error. It might be an idea to re-check the reading with an analogue multimeter.

 

See the PDF.
I need to see the area in the red square.
Good resolution from both sides with good lighting.

 

here is the back side of the board. in pdf format.

 

I think there is a problem with your video card. You can change graphic card or any audio video cable that you are using. If you need quality cables then you can buy from my shop.

This is not a computer to change the video card.
What you posted is not relevant to this thread.

 

This is not a computer to change the video card.
What you posted is not relevant to this thread.

Is the pdf images clean and clear Sir?

 

Yes they are OK.
I will need some time to show you the way.

 

Yes they are OK.
I will need some time to show you the way.

ok sir. thank you so much. i will wait on your reply.

 

Ill have a look for the service manual for that model set, give me the model nr and if there is one the chassis type that is fitted in that set....ar least on power up you arent getting any bangs or , blown fuses etc....

 

Ill have a look for the service manual for that model set, give me the model nr and if there is one the chassis type that is fitted in that set....ar least on power up you arent getting any bangs or , blown fuses etc....

Sharp TV model number : 27H-S60.

 

No chassis type nr? Its a familiar pcb I have worked on that type before ill have a look what ive got....in the meantime check for poor soldered joints....around the primary side and the line output stage , and maybe a replacement filter capacitor may be needed...