Let me start by saying, I did google this, but I want to hear your remedies. I don't trust the wikihows and instructibles and youtubes.

I pulled out my fluke 376 clamp meter that I haven't used in over a year, and the batteries had puked into the case. I cleaned all the corrosion out of the battery compartment just with a pocket knife and dry paper towels, no solvents. Put in new batteries, still not working. Opened it up and I find battery puke on the PCB as well. It got in between the contacts of the selector switch (just a wiper that hits copper pads on the PCB). I cleaned that off the best I could, and I got it working somewhat, but it's acting kinda buggy; sometimes won't turn on, other times display won't read out the value even though it's on, etc.

I feel like I need to give the PCB a bath in something that eats battery puke but nothing else. I paid $550 for this thing and I'm going to cry like a little girl if I ruin it trying to fix it.

 

I've learned "not" to leave batteries in expensive devices. (thanks...I forgot about my Fluke i410 probe in my field tool case.)
I've also lost several MagLites due to battery leakage. It doesn't seem to be any particular battery manufacturer. Also some battery devices drain batteries even when they're "off"....cameras, digital micrometers, Fluke DMMs that have auto shutoff when not in the OFF position.

Ken

 

Totally agree with KM.

Duracell and Royovac have warranties and not just for the battery, so, only use Duracell and Rayovac in the good stuff. I lost Maglites too, but they were replaced because of the battery warranty.

Baking soda and water is a good neutralizer. Now, doing it on an entire PCB means other issues. I want to refer you to this https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/topic/961978 thread.

Methanol will usually displace water and not harm plastics, so when doing Labware one used a detergent, then rinse and then rinse with methanol. Methanol and dry air also get the water out.

Some parts are always a problem like LCD displays and buzzers. You can't get anything near them.

Pepsi/Coke is a decent corrosion remover, but I would only use it on the battery contacts.

 

I remove corrosion using a mix of baking soda and water. Once things are clean I would use Cramolin as a contact preservative but Cramolin in the US is now prohibited by the EPA, I believe it is still sold in Europe. Anyway another anti corrosion treatment is DeoxIT® (D5S-6) and a Google should get results. After a baking soda and water clean I would rinse with isopropanol alcohol. Then Cramolin or Deoxit.

Ron

 

I use two contact enhancers: Stabilant-22 and Conducto-lube. Hunter Products has a plating system: http://www.hunterproducts.com/plating_pens.html but it's not cheap.

 

I've learned "not" to leave batteries in expensive devices.

Yeah, so have I, thanks. LOL. Really no excuse for it, just laziness. I already knew better.

 

ICramolin as a contact preservative but Cramolin in the US is now prohibited by the EPA, I believe it is still sold in Europe.

Banned in the USA but legal in Europe? Europe should be ashamed.

 

Let me start by saying, I did google this, but I want to hear your remedies. I don't trust the wikihows and instructibles and youtubes.

I pulled out my fluke 376 clamp meter that I haven't used in over a year, and the batteries had puked into the case. I cleaned all the corrosion out of the battery compartment just with a pocket knife and dry paper towels, no solvents. Put in new batteries, still not working. Opened it up and I find battery puke on the PCB as well. It got in between the contacts of the selector switch (just a wiper that hits copper pads on the PCB). I cleaned that off the best I could, and I got it working somewhat, but it's acting kinda buggy; sometimes won't turn on, other times display won't read out the value even though it's on, etc.

I feel like I need to give the PCB a bath in something that eats battery puke but nothing else. I paid $550 for this thing and I'm going to cry like a little girl if I ruin it trying to fix it.

Presumably; they were alkaline batteries. Zinc carbon used an electrolyte that behaved like an acid, most books suggested washing in a solution of bicarbonate of soda. Vinegar might be the way to go with alkaline electrolyte.

 

I would us baking soda and distilled/ionized water and wash out with isopropyl and soft toothbrush

 

I would us baking soda and distilled/ionized water and wash out with isopropyl and soft toothbrush

On alkaline electrolyte?

 

Presumably; they were alkaline batteries. Zinc carbon used an electrolyte that behaved like an acid, most books suggested washing in a solution of bicarbonate of soda. Vinegar might be the way to go with alkaline electrolyte.

I'm with you.
Alkaline batteries obviously leave an alkaline residue which baking soda won't neutralize.
I would use a cotton swab dipped in dilute vinegar solution to clean the residue.
From Bob Via's site:
"For that reason, it's wise to clean a battery leak with a mild household acid like vinegar or lemon juice. Both liquids work to neutralize the alkaline discharge. Place a drop of vinegar or lemon juice onto the corroded area, then wait a minute or two for the neutralizing effect to take place."

 

On car batteries, I have found that a greased felt washer (retail level corrosion inhibitor) reduces the creeping of acid into the connection area. For primary batteries, silicon spark plug grease would minimize the spread of the damage. Two days ago I found silicon grease in a taillight socket. This seems to indicate that a 12 volt system can achieve proper connectivity with the grease method.

 

I'm with you.
Alkaline batteries obviously leave an alkaline residue which baking soda won't neutralize.
I would use a cotton swab dipped in dilute vinegar solution to clean the residue.
From Bob Via's site:
"For that reason, it's wise to clean a battery leak with a mild household acid like vinegar or lemon juice. Both liquids work to neutralize the alkaline discharge. Place a drop of vinegar or lemon juice onto the corroded area, then wait a minute or two for the neutralizing effect to take place."

Alkaline seems to dry out and become much less active, a lot of times I've got away with waiting for that to happen and scrape away the debris. Silicone spray can prevent moisture absorption and re activation of any remaining corrosive material.

It didn't work on my camera because the battery cover doesn't open enough to get at the contacts. The deep contacts were OK so I soldered a wire strap across the ends of the cells.