Same as my part, it will actually make layout easier. I sweated a little on that, I am writing a series of tutorials using protoboards, one of my internal rules is, no hidden wires!

I just noticed I forgot to put a wire between D5 and D6, I'll repost shortly. I love the grid system the protoboard offers.

So what do you think? Does the picture make it clear and easy?

 

Bill the protoboard drawing is a god send, without this I doubt I would be able to even have a go at this, TBH it's much more complicated than I had imagined (basically not knowing how to go about it, I thought it would be a couple of wires here and there and a timer and thats it) but your diagram makes it much easier for novices like myself.

Beleive it or not I have been looking at the diagram for a few days and I had not seen where C5 got it's - feed from, honest I was going to ask.

I have been trying to figure out the paths and I still have not got it, but the main thing is, it will do what I want it to do, so once again many thanks for all the effort you have put into this.

Did you see my question on Resistor (R8) is it mounted in the vertical position (1 leg in I6 & the other in I7.

I have been thinking about doing this on a more permanent board, strip board I think it's called, I am pretty good with a soldering Iron, would I set it out exactly the same as the protoboard.

I will do the protoboard first, as I suspect once I get it in my hands and start inserting the components I will understand the paths better.

 

Tis alright. Protoboards let you test things, and if you do happen to let the magic smoke out, repair is also easy.

Hands on is a necessary part of learning electronics. The thing that bites you on a protoboard is the wires that are there but not seen (personal experience talking here).

 

Did you see my question on Resistor (R8) is it mounted in the vertical position (1 leg in I6 & the other in I7).

I think you missed this question in all my ramblings.

 

I caught it, but the pot I'm showing is actually parallel pins on the protoboard, same as yours, but stands up a millimeter or so, so it will work. Radio Shack doesn't always use what I'd like.

 

Parts have arrived at lunch time, I will be giving it a bash this tonight, hopefully not see any of the "magic smoke"

 

Don't brand a fingertip, one of my favorite tricks (Who knew it was that hot!).

 

O, these bits get hot!!!!

I can foresee a few mild shocks, burns and some swearing on the horizion!!!

 

Seriously, nothing is supposed to get hot in this sucker. The transistor might get warm, but that is it.

When I mention branding though, that text transfers because it is a different texture. I never liked looking at reversed characters on a smarting finger.

Since you are using something like a wall wart it is save. Doubt the fish would like it much if any of the voltage made it to the salt water. Did you take a good look at the aquarium I drew?

 

Yeah I did, hopefully that wont happen to any of my fish. lol

Bill on the largers capacitors c3 & c5 is the longer leg of the 2 the positive??

Does it matter which way roungd the resistors go, I know the diodes are marked and have to be installed as per the band on your drawing.

And is this the same for all the components?

I am so pleased I am actually getting it put together.

This may sound like a silly question but, what shall happen should the polarity be the wrong way round on my 12v dc adaptor?

 

This may sound like a silly question but, what shall happen should the polarity be the wrong way round on my 12v dc adaptor?

One word, don't. Of such mishaps tales you tell when your 60 are made. I have a few myself.

Do you have a digital camera? It might come in handy soon.

I draw my capacitors quite carefully, usually the negitive side is marked, both with a stripe and a negitive dash.

 

Right Bill,

I have the capacitors the correct way rond and I think the power supply is ok too.

I have not connected the float switch or the pump, is it ok to test it to see if what happens??

 

O and yes I have a digi camera, but I fear my jumble of bits and bobs wont make much sense even to you. lol

I have all the bits in the correct place, but I have not trimmed the legs yet as I want this working before I make the final model.

 

I powered it up for a few a second, D2 + D3 light and the buzzer sounded????

What have I done wrong??? or is this because the pump and float switch are not connected??

 

If you don't have a DVM buy one, they are very inexpensive. Measure that power supply before you connect it. This is a case of measure three times, cut once. I added another measurement you'll note.

The reason I suggested the superglue is to keep them wires in place.

Probably, try turning the fload switch upside down for the moment.

 

Bill,

Did you see my post above?? No74

I have done something wrong!!!!

 

Maybe, don't freak. If it didn't smoke you're almost there.

You can open the switch circuit, it will think there is water. Remove the wire between D17 and D19.

You are in the troubleshooting phase, it is normal.

 

OK, revised drawings.

 

Bill,

Many thanks for your help today and during the course of this project.

Quick question, I was looking at mounting this on stripboard and soldering the parts in place, but the stripboard I have been looking at has no + or - runs along the top like the Protoboard and this has me totally confuddled, I want to make this as compact as possible, and would prefer not to put the protoboard in a box.#

I tried drawing it out on paper and got in a right mess. lol

How would I go about doing this? if you don't mind stepping in and helping me again.

 

There are those that do, but I would get a short protoboard and use it. You loose $5, but you have something that, once it is working, you use as it.

Transfering it to solder board isn't as easy as you think it will be, even if you know how to solder. If you just feel you have to do this, then get a socket for the IC.

I'll get back with you with the new part. I'd like to see that variable you have.