Wires broken on my adjustable hospital bed I don’t have much experience but can solder just don’t know which color wires broke off it’s a 6 switch remote and 8 wires broken off the board it had 6 limit switches under the buttons but two stopped working so I removed them and will get some new ones but all the wires broke off before I could even get started and I don’t know what color wires connect to the board 8 total wires in unknown order to the -+abcdef terminals on board and g and h left open

 

Welcome to AAC.

You have a tough situation to deal with. There are a few ways you could try to resolve it.

First is to look for a schematic. This could be standalone, or in a service manual. Search the make and model with "schematic" or "service manual" online, and if that fails, contact the manufacturer and see if you can get one. This is the right way to start.

If that fails, and only if, the next would be look at the other end of the cable (where it connects to the board in the bed) and see what clues are there. If the pins happen to be labeled by function you can just trace the switches on the pendant to the board edge and connect the corresponding one.

If that doesn't work, you can use a DMM to figure out which of the wires is the + which is clearly marked on the pendant PCB. Then you can use try each other wire on one of the switches on the pendant (it doesn't matter which) and see what that wire does. Write each one down, then connect them to the corresponding switches when you've worked them all out. There is a slight risk involved in this should the board be poorly designed. It doesn't strike me as specially risky but you've been warned.

A completely blind guess that might work or might do damage is that someone was clever enough to use resistor color code order and the wires go:

1. Black
2. Brown
3. Red
4. Orange
5. Yellow
6. Green
7. Blue
8. Violet

This last one is probably not a good idea.

 

don't know about YOUR device but...
beds are normally run by sets of linear actuators. each actuator would have two switches (FWD/REV or UP/DOWN).
as the remote shows, it is using DC and actuators are literally just DC geared motors.

so take your multimeter and do the checks on the bed side::
a) connect all wires to a terminal strip (to avoid wires from moving and accidentally touching each other)
b) set the meter to measure voltage and find out which two wires are DC power.
c) switch off power and then use your DMM to check continuity and find out which remaining wires are matching pairs belonging to same motor/actuator (keep writing this down)

d) identify remote function. for example connect battery to /- marked on the board (1.5V or 9V - does not matter)
e) have someone helping you - let them press ONE switch down (S1 for example) while you measure voltages appearing on ABCDEF terminals. My guess is AB are one actuator, CD is next, EF is the next... when S1 is pressed you should read battery voltage at one pair of those terminals (AB for example). When S1 is released and complementary switch is pressed (S2), you should see the battery voltage on those same terminals but with opposite polarity. if you do not have helper, use masking tape to hold one switch down at a time.

i think you should have an idea what to do next...

it is most likely something like sketch below. actual switch wiring on the remote may be modified to ensure only one actuator can be used at a time - to prevent exceeding load of the PSU or perhaps also avoid certain patients from folding themselves in half

 

don't know about YOUR device but...
beds are normally run by sets of linear actuators. each actuator would have two switches (FWD/REV or UP/DOWN).
as the remote shows, it is using DC and actuators are literally just DC geared motors.

so take your multimeter and do the checks on the bed side::
a) connect all wires to a terminal strip (to avoid wires from moving and accidentally touching each other)
b) set the meter to measure voltage and find out which two wires are DC power.
c) switch off power and then use your DMM to check continuity and find out which remaining wires are matching pairs belonging to same motor/actuator (keep writing this down)

d) identify remote function. for example connect battery to /- marked on the board (1.5V or 9V - does not matter)
e) have someone helping you - let them press ONE switch down (S1 for example) while you measure voltages appearing on ABCDEF terminals. My guess is AB are one actuator, CD is next, EF is the next... when S1 is pressed you should read battery voltage at one pair of those terminals (AB for example). When S1 is released and complementary switch is pressed (S2), you should see the battery voltage on those same terminals but with opposite polarity. if you do not have helper, use masking tape to hold one switch down at a time.

i think you should have an idea what to do next...

it is most likely something like sketch below. actual switch wiring on the remote may be modified to ensure only one actuator can be used at a time - to prevent exceeding load of the PSU or perhaps also avoid certain patients from folding themselves in half

View attachment 294806

Thanks a lot i will try and get back

 

Welcome to AAC.

You have a tough situation to deal with. There are a few ways you could try to resolve it.

First is to look for a schematic. This could be standalone, or in a service manual. Search the make and model with "schematic" or "service manual" online, and if that fails, contact the manufacturer and see if you can get one. This is the right way to start.

If that fails, and only if, the next would be look at the other end of the cable (where it connects to the board in the bed) and see what clues are there. If the pins happen to be labeled by function you can just trace the switches on the pendant to the board edge and connect the corresponding one.

If that doesn't work, you can use a DMM to figure out which of the wires is the + which is clearly marked on the pendant PCB. Then you can use try each other wire on one of the switches on the pendant (it doesn't matter which) and see what that wire does. Write each one down, then connect them to the corresponding switches when you've worked them all out. There is a slight risk involved in this should the board be poorly designed. It doesn't strike me as specially risky but you've been warned.

A completely blind guess that might work or might do damage is that someone was clever enough to use resistor color code order and the wires go:

1. Black
2. Brown
3. Red
4. Orange
5. Yellow
6. Green
7. Blue
8. Violet

This last one is probably not a good idea.

Thanks i will try your suggestions i did check continuity from the open wires then to each pin on the 7 pin din plug that is on the other end of the remotes cord and gets plugged into the bed

 

Thanks i will try your suggestions i did check continuity from the open wires then to each pin on the 7 pin din plug that is on the other end of the remotes cord and gets plugged into the bedView attachment 294934

 

The fact that the white is connected to the connector shell suggests it is one side of the power supply, probably the 0V/circuit ground. This should make it the common for all the other wires and connecting any other wires to white should operate something.

If so, this just got a lot easier for you.