I am wondering just exactly what the "glitch" you are complaining about actually is. A momentary flash? Or a blink? Or just what exactly is happening that you do not want to happen. And then there is a quastion of how much effort and resources you are willing to spend to get rid of the problem.

It will momentarly flash before turning on i am ok with doing what ever i have the resources on hand

 

OOK, now I am GUESSING that the glitch is the result of the control circuit having to initialize to a specific condition when the power is first switched on. That, in turn, means that no amount of power filtering on the input can possibly stop the activity that is happening before the control circuit is initialized. So the solution is obvious but not at all easy or simple. You just need to delay the application of power to the LED circuits until after the control circuits have completely initialized.
And now I am really wondering why this momentary activation of the LEDs matters at all. Can the TS tell us why that momentary glitch is so important? And we do not need any comments from others, only from the TS.

 

OOK, now I am GUESSING that the glitch is the result of the control circuit having to initialize to a specific condition when the power is first switched on. That, in turn, means that no amount of power filtering on the input can possibly stop the activity that is happening before the control circuit is initialized. So the solution is obvious but not at all easy or simple. You just need to delay the application of power to the LED circuits until after the control circuits have completely initialized.
And now I am really wondering why this momentary activation of the LEDs matters at all. Can the TS tell us why that momentary glitch is so important? And we do not need any comments from others, only from the TS.

Because i made my circuit so that when i open a door or unlock the truck they turn on and it just dosnt look as good if everytime u open a door u see the flash. Its not a serious problem but still i Enjoy doing this type of work it would be interesting to fix

 

Because i made my circuit so that when i open a door or unlock the truck they turn on and it just dosnt look as good if everytime u open a door u see the flash. Its not a serious problem but still i Enjoy doing this type of work it would be interesting to fix

OK, so what you need to do is separate the power feed for the control circuit from the power feed for the LEDs, and then arrange for the control circuit to be constantly powered. Given that somebody else has a similar circuit board possibly they can locate that connection point for you. OR it may work to have the 12 volts applied slowly, over a period of 2 or 3 seconds, which might allow the controls to initialize before the LEDs could light up. OR get another remote and wire it for control and leave the LED package powered constantly.

 

OK, so what you need to do is separate the power feed for the control circuit from the power feed for the LEDs, and then arrange for the control circuit to be constantly powered. Given that somebody else has a similar circuit board possibly they can locate that connection point for you. OR it may work to have the 12 volts applied slowly, over a period of 2 or 3 seconds, which might allow the controls to initialize before the LEDs could light up. OR get another remote and wire it for control and leave the LED package powered constantly.

What device would i need to slow the current? I think this will work

 

What device would i need to slow the current? I think this will work

One of the four wires to the LEDs is the power. Some kind of time delay relay interrupting the power to the LEDs coming from the controller would work. EBay has some for under $10.

 

What device would i need to slow the current? I think this will work

It could be as simple as one of those LARGE capacitors, like the ones that they use with the power connections for the really high powered auto sound systems. BUT before spending that money you should try powering that LED system from a variable voltage supply and se if turning the voltage up over a period of 2 or 3 seconds prevents the glitch. If you have such a supply, or can borrow one for a few minutes, it could be cheap and simple to do.

 

It could be as simple as one of those LARGE capacitors, like the ones that they use with the power connections for the really high powered auto sound systems. BUT before spending that money you should try powering that LED system from a variable voltage supply and se if turning the voltage up over a period of 2 or 3 seconds prevents the glitch. If you have such a supply, or can borrow one for a few minutes, it could be cheap and simple to do.

The rgb box is 12V wont increasing voltage mess with it? Or does this device gradually increase voltage untill 12volts

 

The rgb box is 12V wont increasing voltage mess with it? Or does this device gradually increase voltage untill 12volts

THAT is what I was speculating may be a solution: letting the voltage rise up to 12 volts over a period of two or three seconds. My thinking being that the controls could initiallize before the LED power was high enough to light them. AND I did suggest trying it with a power supply before spending money on it.

 

THAT is what I was speculating may be a solution: letting the voltage rise up to 12 volts over a period of two or three seconds. My thinking being that the controls could initiallize before the LED power was high enough to light them. AND I did suggest trying it with a power supply before spending money on it.

How would i try it with a power supply? Do power supplies gradually increase voltage? What type would i need

 

How would i try it with a power supply? Do power supplies gradually increase voltage? What type would i need

I am thinking of an adjustable power supply such as an experimenter might have. NOT a fixed voltage supply. I guess that I should have been much more detailed in my description of the test process. What I mean for the test to be would be to have it connected to a power supply whose voltage could be adjusted smoothly up to twelve volts, starting with zero volts.

 

I am thinking of an adjustable power supply such as an experimenter might have. NOT a fixed voltage supply. I guess that I should have been much more detailed in my description of the test process. What I mean for the test to be would be to have it connected to a power supply whose voltage could be adjusted smoothly up to twelve volts, starting with zero volts.

Where can i get one of these from? I have access to a lot of scrap electronics and parts from my work, what type of device would i be able to pull one of these from? Or a variable voltage supply for that matter.

 

Where can i get one of these from? I have access to a lot of scrap electronics and parts from my work, what type of device would i be able to pull one of these from? Or a variable voltage supply for that matter.

If there is a scrapped power supply that could be a good start, or any assembly with some NPN power transistors on a heat sink. There are hundreds of adjustable power supply circuits available. The "Schematics for free website has a whole category of power supply circuits. And possibly some helpful engineer at your place of employment might be willing to point you toward some suitable discards.
I have never worked at a place that would allow anybody to have scrapped anything. They would rather pay a laborer $20/hour to beat it to pieces with a hammer than to let anybody have it.

 

If there is a scrapped power supply that could be a good start, or any assembly with some NPN power transistors on a heat sink. There are hundreds of adjustable power supply circuits available. The "Schematics for free website has a whole category of power supply circuits. And possibly some helpful engineer at your place of employment might be willing to point you toward some suitable discards.
I have never worked at a place that would allow anybody to have scrapped anything. They would rather pay a laborer $20/hour to beat it to pieces with a hammer than to let anybody have it.

Ive always come across 12v dc power supplies. they plug into 120VAC outlet and step down and invert it to 12vdc. Do u think parts from this is what i need?

 

Ive always come across 12v dc power supplies. they plug into 120VAC outlet and step down and invert it to 12vdc. Do u think parts from this is what i need?

I think that most of that is what you need, and then changing it enough so that the voltage can be adjusted with a knob, up to 12 volts from some much lower starting point.

 

I think that most of that is what you need, and then changing it enough so that the voltage can be adjusted with a knob, up to 12 volts from some much lower starting point.

Interesting i will experiment with that. I may also be able to Pick up a time delay relay. I was wondering if i use the time delay relay would it be able to delay the voltage enough to suppress the glitch but also not long enough where there isnt a huge delay from switch to lights turning on. I would think i need about a half second delay to suppress the glitch. Do u think the timer relay will offer that little of delay time?

 

Interesting i will experiment with that. I may also be able to Pick up a time delay relay. I was wondering if i use the time delay relay would it be able to delay the voltage enough to suppress the glitch but also not long enough where there isnt a huge delay from switch to lights turning on. I would think i need about a half second delay to suppress the glitch. Do u think the timer relay will offer that little of delay time?

That is a concept that I had not considered, but if the one way works then the other should also work. . It might be that powering the control through a resistor that the time delay relay would then bypass could work. That would be simpler than my original idea.

 

That is a concept that I had not considered, but if the one way works then the other should also work. . It might be that powering the control through a resistor that the time delay relay would then bypass could work. That would be simpler than my original idea.

There are 4 wires coming out of the controller one postive 12v and R G B to the leds. I was thinking i take the 12v from there use it to feed the coil of the time delay relay, that way the initial pulse the module gives to the leds will be broken by the time delay relay and then sent to my leds. Will that work?

 

There are 4 wires coming out of the controller one postive 12v and R G B to the leds. I was thinking i take the 12v from there use it to feed the coil of the time delay relay, that way the initial pulse the module gives to the leds will be broken by the time delay relay and then sent to my leds. Will that work?

Also if i were to do this can i use any negative for the coils relay? I have a negative wire ran from my battery close by i could splice into that for the coils negative because obviously i cant use the RGB wires as my coils negative. Would this Idea work?

 

There are 4 wires coming out of the controller one postive 12v and R G B to the leds. I was thinking i take the 12v from there use it to feed the coil of the time delay relay, that way the initial pulse the module gives to the leds will be broken by the time delay relay and then sent to my leds. Will that work?

That should work very well. I had not been aware that the control and the LEDs were separated. The set like that which I saw the control was a "wart" at the end of the string of LEDs, molded on plastic.