Question for 12vdc IR rgb led control module

Thread Starter

John appleseed

Joined May 20, 2020
38
I have a 12vdc IR rgb led control module. The typical set ull see on amazon they sell as footwell lights for ur car. The lights have an on/off button on the remote. If i hook the rgb box to a switch, the lights glitch for a millisecond before turning on. When i use the on off button from the remote they do not glitch. I know its possible they are just a cheat set of Rgb leds but does anyone know what i can do to suppress the glitch?
 

Papabravo

Joined Feb 24, 2006
13,728
I have a 12vdc IR rgb led control module. The typical set ull see on amazon they sell as footwell lights for ur car. The lights have an on/off button on the remote. If i hook the rgb box to a switch, the lights glitch for a millisecond before turning on. When i use the on off button from the remote they do not glitch. I know its possible they are just a cheat set of Rgb leds but does anyone know what i can do to suppress the glitch?
You should redesign the module properly to eliminate the glitch.
 

Papabravo

Joined Feb 24, 2006
13,728
A circuit diagram would be nice as I am having a bit of trouble understanding just what an IR RGB LED module is...
Isn't it a single LED that will do IR, Red, Green, and Blue? That's what I was thinking, but maybe he means something else. Also, is this something you bought or is this something you designed and want to make more of. Makes a huge difference. More details are always better than fewer details.
 

Thread Starter

John appleseed

Joined May 20, 2020
38
Isn't it a single LED that will do IR, Red, Green, and Blue? That's what I was thinking, but maybe he means something else. Also, is this something you bought or is this something you designed and want to make more of. Makes a huge difference. More details are always better than fewer details.
81130964-8A01-4DD0-BD19-0F3158D6F6D9.png81130964-8A01-4DD0-BD19-0F3158D6F6D9.png81130964-8A01-4DD0-BD19-0F3158D6F6D9.png81130964-8A01-4DD0-BD19-0F3158D6F6D9.png
 

Thread Starter

John appleseed

Joined May 20, 2020
38
A circuit diagram would be nice as I am having a bit of trouble understanding just what an IR RGB LED module is...
I shared a picture down below. I have no idea what the wiring schematics are i was hoping someone can tell me how to suppress the glitch that happens when they are turned on Through a switch rather than the remote
 

ErnieM

Joined Apr 24, 2011
8,042
Those things use 4 wires for the 3 colors, R G B and power. So if you add a second switch in line with the LED power that closes after the main power does the glitch will be avoided.

There is a type of toggle switch called ON-ON-ON. It looks and moves like a center off toggle switch but does not have the center off action. I have only seen it in double and quad pole versions, and the double pole would work here. You just have to pause a bit as you go or switch from off thru power on to LEDs on.

If you are comfortable wiring these things try adding a resistor (guessing 50K to 500K) between the gate and source on the drive FETs. The issue is the controller as it powers on does not drive the FETs until it completes its reset. The resistor may keep them off during this time.
 
Last edited:

Thread Starter

John appleseed

Joined May 20, 2020
38
Those things use 4 wires for the 3 colors, R G B and power. So if you add a second switch in line with the LED power that closes after the main power does the glitch will be avoided.

There is a type of toggle switch called ON-ON-ON. It looks and moves like a center off toggle switch but does not have the center off action. I have only seen it in double and quad pole versions, and the double pole would work here. You just have to pause a bit as you go or switch from off thru power on to LEDs on.

If you are comfortable wiring these things try adding a resistor (guessing 50K to 500K) between the gate and source on the drive FETs. The issue is the controller as it powers on does not drive the FETs until it completes its reset. The resistor may keep them off during this time.
The set that i have is like that except instead of using a cigarette lighter adaptor to power The box, its just a hard wire connection to the box. It came with the cigarette lighter adaptor but since my set up will be controlled from a relay on my trucks bcm i hard wired it with 12 gauge wire i ran into my cab from the battery. U think i would have to put a resistor in line where the rgb box gets power?
 

Papabravo

Joined Feb 24, 2006
13,728
I shared a picture down below. I have no idea what the wiring schematics are i was hoping someone can tell me how to suppress the glitch that happens when they are turned on Through a switch rather than the remote
Actually it was rendered as 3 copies of each picture, but never mind. It was the original wording that threw me. The remote control uses the IR LED/Receiver to control Red, Green, and Blue LEDS in the light bars. So the problem in the light bars which glitch when you use a manual switch, but don't glitch when you use the remote. The light bars will enable the LEDs BEFORE the controller can power up and gain control of things. So back to my original statement which is that you need to find a way for the controller in the light bar to be continuously powered so the switch only enables the LEDs instead of everything. At least that is the way I would solve the problem. You would also have to disable the remote command to turn off from turning the controller in the light bars off. You don't ever want to do that.

Is it practical for you to do this? Probably not, but then I don't really know what your capabilities are. How much money do you want to spend to fix the problem?
 
Last edited:

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
4,535
Mechanical switches bounce. Electronic switches don't. You MIGHT be seeing some affect from a bouncing switch.

I believe the IR part of the question is that the color control module receives IR from the IR Remote. The RGB output only drives the colored LED's. I have the same thing in my sauna. Colored lights to set mood, all controlled with the IR Remote.
 

KeithWalker

Joined Jul 10, 2017
895
The problem exists because the controller was designed to be economical rather than sophisticated. When power is switched on, it takes a short time for the controller to configure the outputs to the LEDs. During that time, the FETs that power the LEDs are tuned on.
You could correct that by modifying it to keep the LEDs turned off until the controller is fully configured. That would be a complex and time consuming solution.
You could add an external time delay switch that drives a relay . The NO contacts of the relay should be connected in the common return path of the LEDs. The delay switch should energize when you turn on the light unit. The relay contacts will be open, disconnecting the LEDs until the end of the time delay period. When the contacts close, everything should be working normally.
Regards,
Keith
 

ErnieM

Joined Apr 24, 2011
8,042
The set that i have is like that except instead of using a cigarette lighter adaptor to power The box, its just a hard wire connection to the box. It came with the cigarette lighter adaptor but since my set up will be controlled from a relay on my trucks bcm i hard wired it with 12 gauge wire i ran into my cab from the battery. U think i would have to put a resistor in line where the rgb box gets power?
The resistors (3) would go inside the controller. Since a power on flash doesn't bother me I never tried to stop that... even on the controller I built myself. That goes in my kitchen and is always powered on unless I knock off the power lead getting my coffee container.

Would you be comfortable opening your unit and posting a picture? And could you make mods to the unit too? If you post a picture of the three output transistors next to the pins for the led strips I could show you where these go.

I might try modding one myself for you to see if this works. I have several spares in my box of light stuff.

Note Switch or relay bounce is not an issue here.
 

Thread Starter

John appleseed

Joined May 20, 2020
38
The resistors (3) would go inside the controller. Since a power on flash doesn't bother me I never tried to stop that... even on the controller I built myself. That goes in my kitchen and is always powered on unless I knock off the power lead getting my coffee container.

Would you be comfortable opening your unit and posting a picture? And could you make mods to the unit too? If you post a picture of the three output transistors next to the pins for the led strips I could show you where these go.

I might try modding one myself for you to see if this works. I have several spares in my box of light stuff.

Note Switch or relay bounce is not an issue here.
304F1C35-6E7A-4568-9ED0-8C697AD11AE4.png
this isnt mine bc id have to take a part my dash to get to it, but this is very similar practically the same board.
 

Thread Starter

John appleseed

Joined May 20, 2020
38
The problem exists because the controller was designed to be economical rather than sophisticated. When power is switched on, it takes a short time for the controller to configure the outputs to the LEDs. During that time, the FETs that power the LEDs are tuned on.
You could correct that by modifying it to keep the LEDs turned off until the controller is fully configured. That would be a complex and time consuming solution.
You could add an external time delay switch that drives a relay . The NO contacts of the relay should be connected in the common return path of the LEDs. The delay switch should energize when you turn on the light unit. The relay contacts will be open, disconnecting the LEDs until the end of the time delay period. When the contacts close, everything should be working normally.
Regards,
Keith
Well the way i have my set up is this:
Three position toggle switch, on the common is my led box, on the first poll is constant power from my battery and on the second poll is power coming from my relay. So when my switch is in the second position my lights turn on when my relay is triggered. (Relay is triggered when doors open and when truck is unlocked) and when my switch is in the first position it is constantly on and when my switch is in the middle position the lights are off obviously. I did this so i can switch between constantly on power or automatically activated when doors are unlocked ect. How would i fit the compents ur talking about in my circuit to supress the glitch?
 

ErnieM

Joined Apr 24, 2011
8,042
I don't follow what is where when you do and you don't get the glitch. If there is a way you power this thing on and it doesn't glitch then tell us. That may mean my plan is not what you need.

Anyway, I think I have that controller in my box of stuff. If the following seems like something you could do then I will try it here.

fix.jpg

The three bugs with 3 leads marked "Q'S" are the MOSFETs. My guess is adding a resistor to each between the arrows would fix the glitch. The resistors I recommend are like the part marked "R"

If this sounds like something you are comfortable doing I will try experimenting with this fix.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
6,070
I have a 12vdc IR rgb led control module. The typical set ull see on amazon they sell as footwell lights for ur car. The lights have an on/off button on the remote. If i hook the rgb box to a switch, the lights glitch for a millisecond before turning on. When i use the on off button from the remote they do not glitch. I know its possible they are just a cheat set of Rgb leds but does anyone know what i can do to suppress the glitch?
I am wondering just exactly what the "glitch" you are complaining about actually is. A momentary flash? Or a blink? Or just what exactly is happening that you do not want to happen. And then there is a quastion of how much effort and resources you are willing to spend to get rid of the problem.
 

Thread Starter

John appleseed

Joined May 20, 2020
38
I don't follow what is where when you do and you don't get the glitch. If there is a way you power this thing on and it doesn't glitch then tell us. That may mean my plan is not what you need.

Anyway, I think I have that controller in my box of stuff. If the following seems like something you could do then I will try it here.

View attachment 208313

The three bugs with 3 leads marked "Q'S" are the MOSFETs. My guess is adding a resistor to each between the arrows would fix the glitch. The resistors I recommend are like the part marked "R"

If this sounds like something you are comfortable doing I will try experimenting with this fix.
I am pretty good with that type of thing although id rather find an external way to supress the glitch so i dont have to open up the box and mess with the board but im ok with anything that will work
 
Top