The 2SC1384 and 2SA684 are 1A a pair of bjt, if you could find some similar or bigger than 1A then you could use them.
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That circuit only works if the positive current equals the negative current. For example if you try to draw slightly more positive current than negative current, there's no place for the excess current to flow from the ground to the 15V supply.

Here's a circuit that will properly work with unbalanced loads.

 

That circuit only works if the positive current equals the negative current. For example if you try to draw slightly more positive current than negative current, there's no place for the excess current to flow from the ground to the 15V supply.

Here's a circuit that will properly work with unbalanced loads.

Thanks, I will try what you mentioned.

 

When I started, after many PSUs built in rush one day I decide to build a dual +- 5 9 12 15 18 plus a small dual variable +- 1,25 to 22V. Please do not confine your decision based on you needs today.

 

I am about to try and teach myself some op amp stuff, but I only have a variable bench power supply, I googled split supplies and there are plenty but my question is do I need some sort of current/overload protection on both + and - rails?

I am very safety conscious as I don't have much money and hate to destroy components so do I need output current limiting in the design or not and if so, can someone point me in the general direction of circuits that will allow me to play with op amps safely please?

Neil.

LM317 and LM337 won't over-current until 1 amp or more. Lots of smoke can be released before that time. For op amps these devices also come in TO-92 versions limited at 100 mA. Making your own power supplies is the way to go in my opinion. Battery power is okay.
Other nice things to have is variable voltage sources. An op amp in a buffer configuration with a pot on the input.
Some examples of support circuits I have built over the years. I suspect others have their favorites also.