Power Drive Inverter 3000 watt I need a schematic to get two parts

Thread Starter


Joined Mar 31, 2021
I have a powerdrive inverter 3000 watt seem to have blown a diode I need to find out what it is and replace it along with a soldered type fuse two items Power Drive just wants me to buy a new unit but I can fix this,
The diode is in identifiable a schematic would tell me but there nowhere to be found the fuse is easy but the diode I'm dead in the water,, damnit a 3 dollar part holding me up



Joined Jun 19, 2012
A bit of perspective here...

It's easy to think "just replace those burnt-looking parts and I'll be good to go!"

Usually, parts burn for a reason- and that can get complex, many other parts in the associated part of the circuit can also be damaged- but look perfectly fine.
A 3000 watt inverter is a complex beast and operates at very high current levels, you usually would want to power it up very carefully after a repair using some pretty specialized test rigs to ensure it doesn't burst into flames when you try slapping power on the thing.

I have 40+ years of experience with electronics and I would be hesitant to attempt repairing such a beast myself.



Joined Feb 24, 2006
I'm a bit skeptical that replacing what you might think is a $3 part is the answer to your prayers. I don't suppose it has occurred to you that the part might be obsolete, decades past End of Life, and pure unobtanium. The ONLY parts being manufactured and widely available from distributors these days are surface mount ROHS compliant PB-free parts.

When I was a young engineer, a grizzled veteran walked up to me one day and said: "Son, do you realize that everything you're working on today will be landfill in 10 years". He wasn't far off the mark, and that happened in 1968.


Joined Jun 16, 2018
The first problem here is that the part you show in the photo appears to me to be a resistor and not a fuse or diode. This leads me to believe that there is more to the problem than suspected. As with the others that have posted here, I would not attempt to fix this. There are too many potentially hidden problems. I too have been working in this field for 40 years and would hesitate to even look at this.


Joined Jan 29, 2021
I would agree that it looks more like a resistor, and that, to save possibly 5p (7cents?) the manufacturer has used one with JUST enough power rating, whereas most of us would have doubled it - it looks like the holes were designed to take a bigger one. You could trace the apparent circuit as best you can and that might give us a fighting chance.


Joined Apr 6, 2021
This post is late, but for future reference, what I find with the PowerDrive 3000.
First, consider this is cheap Chinese zero quality, never intended to be serviced. It quits, cheaper to recycle and buy a replacement.
Reason schematics are not public is it cost money to publish and the manufacturers will save their penny's.
About the device: This in basics is just a simple switching power supply. Rather than DC output, there is a bank of power mosfets that switch at 60 Hz to more or less simulate AC line voltage. (modified sign wave)
My failure is slight different in that the bank to switch 60 Hz has failed. At least two fets cratered and a shorted diode blew the lead off. The device 'IRFP260M' can be found or substituted. the diodes are generic protection for the FETs. Figure 12a in Infineon's datasheet shows example.
The complication is the small brain that handles display codes, temperature control, and current control.
The beast part is the added circuitry to handle the power.
For the tinkerer that wants hands on with switching supplies, it can be repaired. For the layman, this is a LOT of work so decide if it is worth the time and expense.
This fail shows burned R17 and betting Q15 and or Q16 is shorted.
Or, find a decent circuit and reuse the case (which probably incorporates heatsinking), add some extra heat removal (cooling fans?), and build your own (with some assistance, perhaps).
Or, find a decent circuit and reuse the case (which probably incorporates heatsinking), add some extra heat removal (cooling fans?), and build your own (with some assistance, perhaps).
Well, the case is terrible, into a decent project box would be far better. I question heat being a problem if mounted with adequate ventilation, besides the heat sinking and two big fans in the back, there is a fair heatsink with fan on the 60 Hz switching output. That is where mine failed, all 8 of the powrer fets on the heat sinks, removed the assembly. The primary supply still works with130V DC on the caps.
Yet need to check the fet drivers and signals from the PWM, don't want to pop the new power fets.
I will try to get photos of the progress of reassembly and testing.