As I mentioned, one eBayer I contacted that offered to repair these boards bulked and wrote back that he can't fix this board once he had seen the picture of it. I was just checking the options at the time, wasn't really going to use his services except as a last resort. So these repair services may or may not fix things and it is best to consult them with some pictures before you send them the board.

Lucky that you found and fixed an issue that was easy and no cost. Seems like you got a bargain of a steal.

So the board of your oven did go bad and you had to use another board from another oven that matched. Verify this if I am wrong about this conclusion please. How long did it take after you got the oven when the board went bad? From the experience I have gained from this oven that I am doing a re-cap job on, I would guess that your oven probably had an intermittent board just like this oven and the strand of the element getting caught into the insulation of the oven was not an issue at all and because of the intermittent nature of the oven's operation, it just came back after a while and then went dead again, making you think you had fixed something when you really had not. What do you think? Is this a likely scenario, or are you sure you fixed it the first time and then the board on it went bad? Let us know. Thanks.

Relay(s) could be bad on this board that I am working on, but because of the nature of its intermittent problem (going black screen for months and then coming back on its own and working for days or weeks) I tend to think this is something else, the capacitors in this case. If a relay contacts are blackened, mechanical force or vibration may jolt it into operation, neither of which was likely applied to this board as it sits high on the oven in the wall and no one would likely touch it or jolt it in anyway. This intermittent way devices fail seems to be one way capacitors go bad (possibly) in particular electrolytic capacitors.

How did you match your board to another board? Is there a number on the board itself that can be reference to find similar boards? Did you go by the picture of the board? Thanks.

I fixed it relatively easily, the board had a name on it OVC 1000 and I searched for that. Found the photos and enlarged them.
Bought the first replacement and that worked. The old board was a 2004 vintage design, the new ones were a 2009 design and are still available. They were even available on the AEG spares web site when I last looked but on just checking no longer available. So yes I looked at numbers and checked the number of relays and shape of connectors on the board. They are compatible with 14 brands of oven.
The original board that was in the oven lasted about a year or so before it went bad permanently. It gave a bit of a warning and the main oven would not heat up or got stuck heating up and remained on.
Switching off the main power, leaving for a minute then switching it back on would reset it for a while. That is when I changed it over to the new board I had bought and then bought another as a spare.
The only issue that I though was that the lose single strand of wire could have caused was if the insulation was a bit damp it might have shorted out slightly and caused the error code to appear. It was rather close to the back panel.
I got a real bargain with that one.

 

Can someone who knows about electronics explains this repair? Was my conclusion that C6 was causing the no display and that in turn caused no oven operation correct? If so can someone explain this from electrical theory point of view?

Regarding the LOWER OFF button not working: why this happened? From memory the LOWER OFF button was functional. Why has it stopped working? If the problem with the button was not being used and then somehow not working after the first time it was used after a long no use period, possibly due to corrosion, can a very small hole be made behind the button and then something like Deoxit be injected into the hole to restore its operation?
I am just throwing some ideas out there to see if someone can shed light on this subject or encourage me to do something that might make this button start working again. Thanks for any help.
On a hunch I heated the non working button area very slightly with a heat gun and pushed it firmly several times. I plan to install it at a later time and see if that made any difference.
Is there a way to check this button electrically? Perhaps against the ribbon that comes out of the buttons panel? Thanks.

 

The capacitors were installed on the board today. The oven is now operational but still has one issue as explained near the end of this post, so please let me know how to fix this last problem and then it should be good.

First C34 and C50, then C29 and C30 were installed. C30 pad had come off on one side so had to use a jumper on that side to connect it directly to R21 next to it. There was no need to use a jumper from one terminal of C29 to T77 as there was continuity there already. The new C29 fit well into the crater left by the previous blown capacitor.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UjMpfTdli_ENa12ctdSfgNe9BD1GPEC-/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wy7WrdMLZKW2JlUZTEIxVJ-wifUZQPdK/view?usp=sharing

The board was then put back into the oven to see if the oven operation is restored and if the black screen starts to work. The oven did not work and the black display remained black so this was not the final fix. working).

A bit of frustration set in at this point, so I checked the value of all the big resistors on the board. I think they are good but did not bother to check the measured value against the value indicated by the bands.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ODQoztH-GUzKajr50K8JxzOZ7cSvk0rC/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_yO0Y2_CGxXilRw1PTsr2fVA2XrcxFBe/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15soofCSMULvwslb2zMUQrh8myzMiaXpo/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ij0n44bPzhU6-Ktq_oiQpv6OUq_lLsFw/view?usp=sharing

Then the next 2 capacitors were installed on the board, the C54 and C6 which were next to the VFD. Also the suspect solder joints of the VDF and Q28 were retouched with soldering gun.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A3oWH95dfQq_0sfSFRQ6Chu9cxF48vHG/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gKUAAt8hSju6ZNAPaiNoDG7eWQYJeu4v/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t-c7MQ2nFrI9R6bSL2Q7PrB8ZNI7fsNH/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bJJVo4D_j57rodfErERfn7d3Pm6j8mQB/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NIwDLIogv8Cv-Qj4MTimXzxxdAWy5UqN/view?usp=sharing

This time the display came on and the oven became operational. Later when the values of C54 and C6 were checked C6 was way below its rated capacity as shown below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F1nouvS7i3vtHKxUaqULt8Z65-UwVDcC/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KLVcYz6AsbXd-RhFyuM2Z9QXWbe6n6hO/view?usp=sharing
C6 was rated at 2.2 µF which is 2200 nF but it measured very low about 4 nF. So C6 was likely the cause of black display which then caused no oven operation.

Here are some pictures of the final repair:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FSeriexN9IP69mmuoBMds1ci_ZqLBJmQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bAZy6sV95A66oVwCBlrCBzBNRZSKfXHe/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gKUAAt8hSju6ZNAPaiNoDG7eWQYJeu4v/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t-c7MQ2nFrI9R6bSL2Q7PrB8ZNI7fsNH/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bJJVo4D_j57rodfErERfn7d3Pm6j8mQB/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NIwDLIogv8Cv-Qj4MTimXzxxdAWy5UqN/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16BJAxs_Sdzv0VCUGacThFmEwSVvulXjd/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A3oWH95dfQq_0sfSFRQ6Chu9cxF48vHG/view?usp=sharing

There is one other issue with this board and that is the LOWER OFF button does no turn off the lower oven or makes the noise other buttons make. I think this could be due to this button needing cleaning. Here is the front and back of the piece that holds the buttons. Is there a way to clean this button? How can this button be restored? Thank you.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f-D1DDEZs55z3yatFIOR0OJmQ2AOcDFD/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ot8on_w-5c5VRTpmhjwtAYn5RZ95XIPT/view?usp=sharing

That button not turning off the oven could be due to the relay sticking on or the button not working by not cutting power to the relay. Check the relay if you can to see if it is operating correctly. That happened on my old board, the main oven element was stuck on and I could only turn it off by the main switch. The relays on my board were 12v relays operating 250V contacts.

Really glad that you got the main parts working, I am sure you will find the solution to the Lower Off button

 

That button not turning off the oven could be due to the relay sticking on or the button not working by not cutting power to the relay.

All the other buttons make a sound when pushed except this LOWER OFF button. So that makes me think there is an issue with the button rather than with the relay. If the button was making a sound and the oven would still stay on, then I would suspect something else like the relay.

 

All the other buttons make a sound when pushed except this LOWER OFF button. So that makes me think there is an issue with the button rather than with the relay. If the button was making a sound and the oven would still stay on, then I would suspect something else like the relay.

Is it the relays you can hear when pressing the other buttons? or are they mechanical buttons.
But then if you switch it on and it stays on the button is working one way.

 

Is it the relays you can hear when pressing the other buttons? or are they mechanical buttons.
But then if you switch it on and it stays on the button is working one way.

All the buttons make a noise when pushed, it is not relay clicking. The oven ON button is a separate button from OFF button. The LOWER ON button turns the lower oven on and makes the noise when pushed like all the other buttons. The LOWER OFF button does not make any noise and does not turn off the oven. As a comparison the UPPER OFF button does make a noise and does turn the upper oven off if it has been turned on with UPPER ON button.

 

All the buttons make a noise when pushed, it is not relay clicking. The oven ON button is a separate button from OFF button. The LOWER ON button turns the lower oven on and makes the noise when pushed like all the other buttons. The LOWER OFF button does not make any noise and does not turn off the oven. As a comparison the UPPER OFF button does make a noise and does turn the upper oven off if it has been turned on with UPPER ON button.

I'm sorry but I can't think of anything else, I would suspect a sticking relay though.

 

I think the button goes to the MCU which then turns the relay on/off. when you say "makes the noise" is this a beep, button click, or relay clunk?
If the button seems totally dead, check the keypad cable/connector did not get damaged, that it makes contact on all fingers. Sometimes the cable is not pushed in straight or all the way, or a bad solder joint at the connector on the pcb. The keypad cable is fragile.
The keyboard is membrane-type or metal bubble cap?
If you mashed the keypad, sometimes a metal bubble cap will move to the side, and not make contact internally if it's off center of the switch. It should click.

 

The LOWER ON button turns the lower oven on and makes the noise when pushed

Can you also feel a 'click' when it's pushed? If so, the switch is a tact type , which I think is what the 'metal bubble cap' mentioned above is referring to. They are not particularly robust and can suffer from poor contact or a failed 'clicker' (bubble).

 

when you say "makes the noise" is this a beep, button click, or relay clunk?
The keyboard is membrane-type or metal bubble cap?

The noise I am referring to is the "beep", it is NOT the button click or relay clunk. All the buttons on the keyboard make the beep except the LOWER OFF button and the LOWER OFF button did not turn the lower oven off. I had to go to the circuit breakers to shut the lower oven off.
I would describe the keyboard as membrane-type. The keyboard is hard almost no movement and no clicking. When I push the membrane over each button I have to really concentrate on the feeling and then I can feel a very slight push below my finger. "The Push" I feel below my finger seems to be centered.

Can you also feel a 'click' when it's pushed?

As I described above the push I feel is very slight, like I am pushing on an almost solid piece of plastic. I have to really concentrate on the feeling to "feel" a slight movement below my finger. It does not feel, or click like a tact type switch.

Here are some pictures of the keyboard, ribbon, ribbon's plug. If you see anything please advise. Thanks.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Aj2kKSFbs-aqRU_sVThPCX85rTEi4hAQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JZdEtnJVtVRnC6We14oNxtea_Cgl-06t/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uZihAHsoTT0-iI00s9LiYph257GukJ7x/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NdaHeshAhNZp6YKsazW62GUz-7U1JUMV/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a5OyqDhuLw5j3K9npPQYG4C6hj9w_9Dp/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DodhTnWxsqhe8TdulaVVDHJhxQQq9zcB/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fT82EvIJYNR15LUeFCsdjucpqkyqorsJ/view?usp=sharing

I plugged the control board back into the oven and I turned the breakers on notice 2 things:
The screen showed an orange "PF", what does PF mean?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1snnRYVqaYDk4wjuFWGEfBcTEzxCOFzQJ/view?usp=sharing
After a pause the board beeped and then showed the following screen:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11OEcm5hCld-zmn9Y5KQACngY30MbXyrj/view?usp=sharing

None of the buttons now work or make the beep sound, the oven is completely not operational.
I cycled the breakers, momentarily came back to see if the buttons work but they did not.
The clock on the control board screen works, there is a pause of perhaps a minute before the control board beeps 3 or 4 times and goes to the error screen E1 F2.

Checking for E1 F2 for Whirlpool Double Oven brought a website with the following advice:
F2 E1
Possible Solutions
Reset power to the product:
There may be a problem with the User Interface or Keypad, the Control, or the associated wiring.

Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute.​

Power unit up by turning on the circuit breaker(s).​

Monitor the oven for one (1) minute to ensure the error code does not display again.​

Verify oven operation.​

I turned the breakers off multiple times, waited a while, then turned them back on and before it had gone to the error screen pushed some buttons on the keyboard. Still nothing. No beep sound from any key, and can't make any changes on the control board, not even to the clock.

I looked at the back of the control board to see if anything was not right. Noticed the the ribbon was not completely in on one side and fixed that. But that did not make any difference.

The error screen did come on yesterday also (before I took the board out again for no LOWER OFF button operation) but yesterday once I pushed other buttons it cleared the error message and allowed the oven to operate, but not today, the buttons do not operate or make beep at all and after about a minute the screen changes from "PF clock" to "E1 F2".

The VFD works now and screen lights up but the intermittent nature of the oven seems to be still there or perhaps some other issue like no keyboard operation has been added to the problem. Perhaps those relays that were talked about earlier could be the cause this time?? Would bad relays cause all the keys on the keyboard not to beep? I would think not but perhaps, please let me know of your thoughts. Thanks.
Could the slight heat I applied to the board and pushing the LOWER OFF button and a few others a little forcefully cause this? I think not but let me know of your thoughts?

This situation was likely there before because I do recall that I had seen this error screen E1 F2 before. I remember that I even researched it. This is back during the time when the oven was operational but intermittent, so I think nothing I did contributed to this error message but the non operations keyboard was not there.

Please share your thoughts. Thanks.

 

The screen showed an orange "PF", what does this mean?

I'd guess 'Power Failure'?

 

If the errors don't clear, try toggling the power again. My oven occasionally loses its mind and needs a hard reboot.

The position of the hook that holds the door locked during self-cleaning can also be a problem. Make sure it's free and out of the way. There are limit switches that can get easily gunked up by steam, smoke and fumes rising out of the oven. Stupid design to put all these sensitive electronics right at the door opening.

 

The noise I am referring to is the "beep", it is NOT the button click or relay clunk. All the buttons on the keyboard make the beep except the LOWER OFF button and the LOWER OFF button did not turn the lower oven off. I had to go to the circuit breakers to shut the lower oven off.
I would describe the keyboard as membrane-type. The keyboard is hard almost no movement and no clicking. When I push the membrane over each button I have to really concentrate on the feeling and then I can feel a very slight push below my finger. "The Push" I feel below my finger seems to be centered.

As I described above the push I feel is very slight, like I am pushing on an almost solid piece of plastic. I have to really concentrate on the feeling to "feel" a slight movement below my finger. It does not feel, or click like a tact type switch.

Here are some pictures of the keyboard, ribbon, ribbon's plug. If you see anything please advise. Thanks.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Aj2kKSFbs-aqRU_sVThPCX85rTEi4hAQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JZdEtnJVtVRnC6We14oNxtea_Cgl-06t/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uZihAHsoTT0-iI00s9LiYph257GukJ7x/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NdaHeshAhNZp6YKsazW62GUz-7U1JUMV/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a5OyqDhuLw5j3K9npPQYG4C6hj9w_9Dp/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DodhTnWxsqhe8TdulaVVDHJhxQQq9zcB/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fT82EvIJYNR15LUeFCsdjucpqkyqorsJ/view?usp=sharing

I plugged the control board back into the oven and I turned the breakers on notice 2 things:
The screen showed an orange "PF", what does PF mean?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1snnRYVqaYDk4wjuFWGEfBcTEzxCOFzQJ/view?usp=sharing
After a pause the board beeped and then showed the following screen:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11OEcm5hCld-zmn9Y5KQACngY30MbXyrj/view?usp=sharing

None of the buttons now work or make the beep sound, the oven is completely not operational.
I cycled the breakers, momentarily came back to see if the buttons work but they did not.
The clock on the control board screen works, there is a pause of perhaps a minute before the control board beeps 3 or 4 times and goes to the error screen E1 F2.

Checking for E1 F2 for Whirlpool Double Oven brought a website with the following advice:
F2 E1
Possible Solutions
Reset power to the product:
There may be a problem with the User Interface or Keypad, the Control, or the associated wiring.

Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute.​

Power unit up by turning on the circuit breaker(s).​

Monitor the oven for one (1) minute to ensure the error code does not display again.​

Verify oven operation.​

I turned the breakers off multiple times, waited a while, then turned them back on and before it had gone to the error screen pushed some buttons on the keyboard. Still nothing. No beep sound from any key, and can't make any changes on the control board, not even to the clock.

I looked at the back of the control board to see if anything was not right. Noticed the the ribbon was not completely in on one side and fixed that. But that did not make any difference.

The error screen did come on yesterday also (before I took the board out again for no LOWER OFF button operation) but yesterday once I pushed other buttons it cleared the error message and allowed the oven to operate, but not today, the buttons do not operate or make beep at all and after about a minute the screen changes from "PF clock" to "E1 F2".

The VFD works now and screen lights up but the intermittent nature of the oven seems to be still there or perhaps some other issue like no keyboard operation has been added to the problem. Perhaps those relays that were talked about earlier could be the cause this time?? Would bad relays cause all the keys on the keyboard not to beep? I would think not but perhaps, please let me know of your thoughts. Thanks.
Could the slight heat I applied to the board and pushing the LOWER OFF button and a few others a little forcefully cause this? I think not but let me know of your thoughts?

This situation was likely there before because I do recall that I had seen this error screen E1 F2 before. I remember that I even researched it. This is back during the time when the oven was operational but intermittent, so I think nothing I did contributed to this error message but the non operations keyboard was not there.

Please share your thoughts. Thanks.

More searching on the internet came up with this:

E1 F2 is most often due to a failed keypad. Depending on your exact model the original part may be no-longer-available. However, there are replacement membrane switches available here:​

Introducing the Ledgestone Technologies Touchpad​

But that link does not go to any place that sells it. There are a few of these membrane keyboards on eBay for a hefty price. That is not an option so have to try to fix it.

More internet search reveals the keyboard OFTEN goes bad, so that is probably the issue here. The challenge is to remove the keyboard from its backing. It seems to be glued in. If anyone knows how the keyboard is held in its frame and how to free it without damage please share. Thanks.

 

I took the keyboard membrane out of its frame using a feeler gauge that I heated with a heat gun.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/140PI0ESUiyLuwI_EBBR53gtk_Q8lfMzu/view?usp=sharing

Upon cleaning it with some acetone the blackness of its screen rubbed out some. Is it still useable?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gW_X_FqBn7Ymm_RO2ftN6xYTJx8liNrD/view?usp=sharing

There are some numbers at the back of the keyboard membrane as shown below. Does anyone has a source for this? Thanks.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eTtCoohk01n9JT9eIt776tlWXStn-0zX/view?usp=sharing

Numbers at the back of the keyboard membrane:
4450716/1833
2543
510237

 

You may want to chat with these folks. They sell kits for repairing remote control pushbuttons, and a bunch of related things including a repair shop. No idea if they'd touch one of these.
https://p1repair.com

 

I took the keyboard membrane out of its frame using a feeler gauge that I heated with a heat gun.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/140PI0ESUiyLuwI_EBBR53gtk_Q8lfMzu/view?usp=sharing

Upon cleaning it with some acetone the blackness of its screen rubbed out some. Is it still useable?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gW_X_FqBn7Ymm_RO2ftN6xYTJx8liNrD/view?usp=sharing

There are some numbers at the back of the keyboard membrane as shown below. Does anyone has a source for this? Thanks.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eTtCoohk01n9JT9eIt776tlWXStn-0zX/view?usp=sharing

Numbers at the back of the keyboard membrane:
4450716/1833
2543
510237

More pictures of the removed keyboard membrane for those curious or who can offer how this repair can proceed:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bFM3w1a1--HJdoTaW8sbtkd89Xo2N1TS/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VCLKqpMxEnwpZxKfxFD2Y4Mnl3Wmmfmo/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lIpN8GmFBmXUaWxBDHsyXcBqacgIYVvV/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iGbh88X-nJd8bMDqs3jIRvfou8AleU2J/view?usp=sharing

This is the picture of the display now that it has some of its tint rubbed off when installed in the oven:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17J7S0FBAA2F49v3RWUXLECXAPXtQX7L4/view?usp=sharing

What can be used to retint/recolor this? Thanks

 

Another glued layer of the keyboard was taken off using the same method of heated feeler gauge.
This seems to reveal a ribbon cable that has broken traces as shown in the picture below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12DCmWvhVS7vnotphdNdjm2p4hpDxLiIb/view?usp=sharing

How would you repair these broken traces? T
How would you put everything back together once the traces are repaired?
What glue if any would you use?
My earlier question about re-tinting the area of the display that had its tint rubbed off, what can be used for this re-tinting?
Thanks.

Here is a picture of both layers of the keyboard:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mj72rwDzPZ5z9WC8eMHB3OwPQGjy7QBD/view?usp=sharing

 

Just google it, there are loads of conductive paint repair kits for heated rear screens, circuit boards and ink type pens. I have never used any but I would go for something that is like the Loctite 3863 which is a varnish based silver paint darned expensive though. There are lots of examples of conductive ink pens.
I would try a permanent marker pen to tint the display. It is a very thin covering which will allow light through. you could give it a few coats to build up a satisfactory layer.
Before trying to take it apart any further I would repair the broken traces on the ribbon cable then test before taking anything else apart.

 

In terms of longevity and reliability, this sealed membrane keyboard is about the best you can get. No comparison to the flimsy remote control keys with open contacts and carbon goo to make the contact.
As you already found out, the only issue that might occur are broken traces. Conductive ink will hardly work as the traces are broken at a point where the flex board is bent. (Conductive ink is even more prone to break there as well.)
Provided the plastic does withstand the heat of a solder iron, you could consider to scratch away one of the cover layers "left and right" of the gap, then solder thin isolated, multi-stranded wires to bridge the gap(s). Tricky, but not completely impossible.
(I once patched a car dashboard backlight that way: although the plastics melted around the solder joints, the backlight came back to operation.)

 

You need to separate the 2 conductive layers from the isolating one to expose the matrix.

I don't see 2 conductive layers.
What I see are 4 layers: the outside layer with markings, behind it the electrical layer encased in plastic, behind that one thin layer of support, and then the last layer which is thicker also for support, as shown in the picture below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HumovxTuwn0Wsn2ok-9mLOksZBfOhgH8/view?usp=sharing

What I need to know to proceed with this repair are 2 things,

What is the material of the traces of this ribbon? Is it metal or something else?​

What can I use to clean the outside layer without further damaging the tint of it and how can it be retinted?​

Please help with the above 2 if you can. Thank you.

If the material of the traces of the ribbon is metal, it maybe possible to solder a wire to repair the breaks, as shown in this video:

In the above video the guy scraps the plastic insulation off, then tins the metal to make it ready to solder a small wire.

If it is not metal then perhaps a cold method can be used, but I have not research that yet.

Still in both cases; metal or nonmetal, it seems the plastic insulation has to be scraped off before any repairs.