Hi E,hi.
Is the 4431 a PIC .?
If its faulty leave it in circuit, you should be able to determine the problem path, just let cook and measure and observe.
E
That is a lot of current.Hi E,
I was only 1x decimal point out
140mA
I have 3x meters that will measure current, and all of them need attention, between them I got the above reading.
EDIT:Just remembered an old analogue meter, that shows 100mA.
C
Hi E,That is a lot of current.
Is the clock frequency 8 MHz with no PLL?
The PIC should take < 10mA, the leds < 1mA
Hi C,I've started making PCB7!
Hi E,Hi C,
You are wasting time and materials if you make another PCB, if you do not find the root cause of the heating problem.!
Did you try post #61?
E
Why do you think, that current is too low?Hi,
I tried a couple of ideas, including removing the 18LF4620 PIC, that the offending 4431 is connected to, but same result. I think the 4431 is fried by now. Suspect me and my PCB making.
I found an abandoned PCB6, and programmed it with the LED flash program, and it flashes happily, and cool.
The current goes between 7mA and 13mA, but that seems too low, so again suspect me or my equipment, either way it is consuming a low current.
NOTE: No caps on the REG.
At £5 (18F4431 PIC) for 5 minutes of tests, it's a bit too expensive.
I will redesign the PCB (PCB7) with the above suggestions, and post it here before etching.
C.
Hi J,Why do you think, that current is too low?
Two leds ~ 4mA each, PIC a few mA
It depends on the total current/regulator and Vin-Vout.Hi J,
I read the section in the D/S showing 300mA. Now reading a different section, see it is much less. <1mA.
NOTE: No capacitors (yet), on this abandoned PCB, and running with 10V.
Regarding PCB7: Noting the above power readings, at 10V. It would be much easier to use the same 3x REGs with the suggested CAPS, also it would be easier if the 3.3V REGs could be used straight from the eventual 12V supply, without need to go through the 5VREG. Does this seem ok. (All past PCBs have run happily with this set-up) I'll add the heat syncs to the new PCB.
C.
Also remember that the 30*30mm heatsink in the datasheet is 2oz copper, not your standard 1oz board. So you cannot run those regulators even at 150mA with only a 1oz copper board design and with 30*30mm heatsink pad.It depends on the total current/regulator and Vin-Vout.
With 30*30mm heat sink max current is about 150mA/each 3.3V reg.
Hi S and J,One more note in the datasheet:
"As a result, if the device is continuously operated in an overheated condition, the output will appear to be oscillating."
Maybe consider using a higher current capacity 5V regulator to then feed the 3.3V regulators. The 5V version of the NCP1117 can't handle all that current either. A LM7805 with a small heatsink probably can.
Calibration doesn't have to be done all that often if you don't move the scope much. I keep my scopes on UPSs so they never suffer power-conditioning issues, and when I turn any old TDS scope on, I leave it on all day- because it's a tube-display. I also run the display intensity as low as I can reasonably tolerate, and turn it all the way down when I step away. It's a tube display, which means phospher burn in is possible, so I avoid that by what I described above.Hi B,
How often does it need calibrating?
START/STOP: I found this button, and have been using it for my images, thanks.
Thanks for the manual, I'll give it a good coat of looking at
There are the printout modules for sale at £100+, but I wonder how useful it woud be?
Yes, I could do with a spare probe, especially as one of mine doesn't have the clip end fitting. What do you think of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TDS210-T...159173?hash=item3b4e812dc5:g:xpIAAOSwvvhfYXQi
C.
Hi B,Calibration doesn't have to be done all that often if you don't move the scope much. I keep my scopes on UPSs so they never suffer power-conditioning issues, and when I turn any old TDS scope on, I leave it on all day- because it's a tube-display. I also run the display intensity as low as I can reasonably tolerate, and turn it all the way down when I step away. It's a tube display, which means phospher burn in is possible, so I avoid that by what I described above.
I can't speak for the probes you referenced other than to say, for the price, if S&H is dirt-cheap- try it. They are unbranded, which means they are basically 'knockoffs' made in China- but that doesn't mean they are bad. At that price you can get one and compare it with one of your known probes and see how it behaves. If acceptable- use it. Barring having really detailed information on how it's put together so you can actually evaluate how it works- you're left with trying if it doesn't cost much. For my part, I have no problem paying $120 or less for a scope probe for my TDS360, if it's tektronix and is new. The probes are literally more impactful to your circuit than the scope- the scope only sees what the probe passes on- so probe quality is vital.
Hi E,hi C,
With the digital projects you do, I would get this probe pair , they have *1 and *10 attenuation selection.
E
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-100...804115?hash=item4b8bba8593:g:rxYAAOSwcftgEjNd