I allready have a lot of resistors and capacitors.I want to buy a parts/component kit with parts,like 555 timers, microcontrollers, NPN, PNP transistors, trimpots, IC's like regulators, opamps, audio amps, photo cells, photo resistors etc. Where can i find such a kit in the US.

Thanks

 

I allready have a lot of resistors and capacitors.I want to buy a parts/component kit with parts,like 555 timers, microcontrollers, NPN, PNP transistors, trimpots, IC's like regulators, opamps, audio amps, photo cells, photo resistors etc. Where can i find such a kit in the US.

Thanks

Does it have to be US? There are lots of kits on ebay coming from Asia.
If you want to search for suppliers from specific regions, go to ebay, search for electronics kit, and click on Item Location on the left hand side of the screen.

 

Ok, it doesn't have to specifically be from the US, but I want a kit from a supplier i can trust, because i've read bad reviews of people buying kits from Asia. Or they receive damaged or bad components or they can not find data sheets for components like transistors and IC's.

 

If there aren't any kits to suit you, make a list and order the parts you want, one by one. I have to do that every time I rehabilitate an antique guitar amplifier, so I know it can be done.

 

http://www.jameco.com/shop/StoreCatalogDrillDownView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&freeText=component kits&search_type=jamecoall

Among them, transistor, diode, CD4xxx, 74LS, and linear.

They're not cheap and you'd probably be better off ordering parts you'll actually use.

Jameco.com has datasheets for most things they sell.

 

I would sit down and make a list of the items you must have and a list of items you would like included but will not spoil the deal if not included.

Take a look at this list and pick out what you need:
Components Selection Guide

Then hunt around on ebay and find one that best fits your needs. I have not had any issues buying from Asian suppliers. While I would hesitate to recommend any one supplier, I have bought from dx.com without any problems.

 

Or tell us what you want to achieve, then I am sure we can suggest a list for you. Then you can order from elements14/rs component/digikey/mouser/eBay...

 

Thanks for the kind replies. I will make a parts list and then order the parts. I'll be better off with that.

 

I will say over the last 5 months I have tried to buy some 555 and 4017 from others off the Web. While I do get some they are not within spec of the maker and seeing they have not the normal marks as the maker I say are fakes. So if you are looking to buy some of them I would do like I did this month and Order Direct from Ti.com I got everything from them as expected in great condition well packed all besides 1 item. Sadly I was also trying to order the LM338k and even in the picture it showed steel TO-3 package however I ended up with TO-220 package and don't serve my needs. So now I have 10 that will have for many years to come lol.

So with the Real chips swapped for the fakes I don't have to worry about the people I am helping with soldering getting hurt or have something not work because of bad chips and not anything about the soldering job. I would order as much as you can from Ti as you can. I am sure they don't sale fakes...

 

seeing they have not the normal marks as the maker I say are fakes.

That's a dead giveaway that they're counterfeit. I wouldn't buy anything coming from China; unless I was prepared to receive counterfeit product.

I would order as much as you can from Ti as you can. I am sure they don't sale fakes...

There are many reputable on-line distributors. I'd trust Digikey, Mouser, Newark, or Jameco; they have reputations to protect. The last order I received from Newark contained a letter signed by their CEO attesting to the authenticity of the parts they shipped.

Regarding the LM338 in TO-220. You can boost current capability with the addition of an external pass transistor.

 

I will make a parts list and then order the parts.

Post your list and quantities you want.

 

I am not saying that it isn't marked, They are well marked and most of them look like it could be from Ti, however when you look at the ones from Ti next to the ones from CHINA there are differences in markings

Yes I am not saying that there isn't other Auth Distributors however when I looked at one last month off Ti list and they were saying they wanted 54 to buy 1 LM338k I almost did buy from them just because I have spent enough in buying Fakes from people even in the US that I thought was not fake. So for me to buy 1 more even at that price to install in my little Power supply one more time. (So I don't have to worry about the quality of traces on this thing anymore from all the in and out it has had I really didn't want to give it many more chances for the PCB to fail) Then found someone that had them for just under 10 however when I asked them they didn't have any in stock was told to look at the listing on Ebay to buy what they offered. So then I looked for another person I could buy from to find I could buy Direct. So I did. Didn't want to just buy 1 or 2 so bought many of items that I felt I would use and 10 LM338K however came LM338T oh well. The Little PS looks nice and will just sit on my shelf as a Shelf Queen and is marked to not use for anything over 1amp or it won't make it Still have 7 or 8 fakes to replace if it goes out. However now have enough PSU now that I don't even need to worry about the poor thing anymore.

 

I am not saying that it isn't marked,

Are you replying to me? I never said anything about unmarked parts.

Counterfeiters sand off original part numbers and relabel with whatever it is they want to sell. When they sand them, they usually apply a "black topping" material which doesn't match the texture of the bottom of the package and they often use less robust marking methods (e.g. ink that is easily removed). Sometimes the font used for the part number is inconsistent, sometimes the logo is put in the wrong place, sometimes the wrong format is used for date code, etc.

There was an AAC member who reported buying some temperature sensors from Ebay or Amazon (can't recall) at an unbelievably good price (that's also a clue that it's counterfeit). They didn't work. It was later determined that they were actually transistors.

 

@dl324 Sorry don't mean to sound like I was saying you were saying unmarked, I just meant my statement they were well marked in a way that it was hard to tell they were fakes. There is no sanding and things like that. I think they were created as such items by someone other then Ti and branded as Ti... I have seen other chips most times installed in some China made device that has the Chip sanded down branded something it isn't or left un marked. These are perfect in functions just can't take the power the real ones can.

Sorry I was just trying to be helpful.

Hope the OP finds the things they are looking for. Buying parts today isn't like buying them 20+ years ago. To many fakes.

 

There was an AAC member who reported buying some temperature sensors from Ebay or Amazon (can't recall) at an unbelievably good price (that's also a clue that it's counterfeit). They didn't work. It was later determined that they were actually transistors.

I had exactly the same experience when I bought what I thought were DS1820 temperature sensors from a Chinese seller on ebay and found that they shorted the power-supply when connected, they turned out to be NPN transistors; the seller refunded my money.

In this case the fake was obvious but with semiconductors and op-amps it could be difficult to determine whether or not they are fake as they may appear to work initially.

 

In this case the fake was obvious but with semiconductors and op-amps it could be difficult to determine whether or not they got what they paid for as they may appear to work initially.

One particularly distasteful incident I saw on YouTube was someone who had purchased a power transistor in TO-3. It worked at low current, but failed at higher current.

It (or another from the same batch) was taken apart and it was obvious from the size of the die and bond wires that it wasn't a power transistor.

To make matters worse, some counterfeiters will throw in a genuine part here and there; so you have to do 100% incoming testing. For most consumers of electronic components, that's not feasible.

 

Sadly that is the Problem with my TO-3. I can use them for anything under 1 amp. Even though they are said to be 5 amp with higher inrush. I could do anything under 1amp fine push out much more then that and it was pop. Looking inside it does look like something that you would think could work if the Bind wires where larger. Sadly a strand of my hair is thicker then the strand of wire they used. My smallest tip for my Hakko 2032 Micro wasn't small enough to work in the chip to repair for more testing at higher currents.

Yesterday I did hack my PS that needed the TO-3 and installed a TO-220. Tested everything upto 4.4amps. Funny thing is while at the highest output current I thought I lost this chip, However it was displaying volts on the meter just no output, Come to find out the switch that came with the PS years ago wasn't rated over 3amps. Minor repair and it is now working and because it is the easiest to control voltage, I put this back out in the shop for quick testing when the kids need to test something. This will work until I can get Real TO-3 to make it look right one day

 

My smallest tip for my Hakko 2032 Micro wasn't small enough to work in the chip to repair for more testing at higher currents.

You can't solder on them. They use a combination of pressure, heat, and ultrasonic energy to form the bond.

Soldering iron will be too hot and flux will dissolve stuff. I tried it once (about 40 years ago)...