I did just now. This was also a good idea.Without knowledge of the UPS how can we tell? Have you asked the manufacturer?
I did just now. This was also a good idea.Without knowledge of the UPS how can we tell? Have you asked the manufacturer?
A manufacturer representative just answered me the following:Without knowledge of the UPS how can we tell? Have you asked the manufacturer?
The original fans have no yellow wires.Does the fan have a yellow wire?
If it works, great.For now I put the external fan in a Tupperware box and placed the box far away from my working space.There is a cable between the fan box and the UPS. The UPS doesn't complain anymore. A Stone Age solution for lack of a better one.
Oscilloscope settings (amateur configuration; tried until the image was relatively stable and until it fit into the scope screen in a meaningful way):To be quite honest, I think you're going to need a o-scope on it, and you can use a clamp-on ammeter to get current easily. The waveform without the 3rd (original) fan, and then with it, comparing the two is probably the easiest way to determine what's going on.


Do you know of any silent 8 cm fan that works like this besides the original?As suspected you are seeing what looks like EMF spikes from the original fan during dead-time and none without it.
I did cut the blades. The fan started spinning faster. This caused the UPS to beep again.Cut the blades off an OEM model fan. There wont be any airflow. For fun and giggles, PWM modulate the speed and see how low you can go.
Which models the behavior of an old school DC fan motor without electronics.I did cut the blades. The fan started spinning faster. This caused the UPS to beep again.
Possibly by using the power of the rotor I could cut them in the same way a lathe works. The blades are made of hard plastic, though. This would require a precision construction in order to avoid the rotor becoming off-center. I am wondering if this is worth it.
Thank you. Very interesting.Which models the behavior of an old school DC fan motor without electronics.
I've had this problem before with older devices and obsolete fans. (electronics paleontologist is one hat I wear at work) One solution I used was to find and isolate the fan 'GOOD' signal on the original PCB and then use a microcontroller to convert the new three wire fan signal(s) into a pass/fail dry contact to provide the needed emulation function as needed.
Prototype board
https://github.com/nsaspook/fanmon_xc8