Looking, I can't find one. I have this diode from who knows where or when. I'm working on building an automatic paint stirrer using a geared PM Motor from a garage door opener. It's rated for 140VDC at 2A. In other words it can be directly driven from rectified mains. It also runs on 13.8VDC (the biggest supply I have at the moment) but it runs about 20 RPM.

This diode I have - it's marked

NFB01G
U820

Looking for a data sheet so I can know it will handle 2 amps at full power.

My approach is to use an autotransformer to vary the motor to achieve the best stirring speed. From the transformer I'd like to find a full wave bridge, I know I have a few somewhere in this mess but all I found so far is this diode. I don't think half wave rectification would be a problem. If the motor runs too slow on half wave then I'll either turn this place inside out or just go buy another. There IS a Radio Shack about 5 miles away, so getting one is not a problem. However, I'd like to build from what I have on hand if possible. That way if something doesn't work the way I want it to - I'm not out any cash.

Someone out here has to know a trick or two for finding data sheets on what is probably an obsolete part. May be obsolete, but on diode check it passes showing 0.435 for a reading on diode check and open on the reverse test. So I believe the diode is good.

 

 

Have you considered a TM controller?
There is the MC-60, SCR bridge based, or the better PWM MC2100.
They are mains fed, but the control element is isolated.
Or just build a single direction PWM, 555 based circuit.

 

Hi Tony, the active code on there is the U820 which translates to a MUR820 = 200v 8A

 

MUR820 diode.

https://uk.farnell.com/taiwan-semiconductor/mur820-c0g/rectifier-single-200v-8a-to-220ac/dp/3519370

 

Have you considered a TM controller?
There is the MC-60, SCR bridge based, or the better PWM MC2100.
They are mains fed, but the control element is isolated.
Or just build a single direction PWM, 555 based circuit.

I think I have one of those laying around somewhere. Will likely be hard to find amidst my forest of fodder.

Hi Tony, the active code on there is the U820 which translates to a MUR820 = 200v 8A

Thanks Irv. That's the info I needed.
@Dodgydave Thanks for the link.

Thanks y'all.

Hope y'all have a good 2024. Productive and happy; free from problems.

 

I have a transformer out of a Sony stereo. Quite a few secondaries, most are center tapped. Ignoring the main secondary center tap I can get 64VAC from that. All I need is to rectify the current and drive the motor. I don't need forward and reverse, I just need it to turn a paint can.

This silly paint stirrer is either to have a neodymium magnet into the paint can OR to simply drop a steel ball into it. The motor will either turn the can slowly but constantly or drag a magnet (or steel ball) around and around in the bottom of the paint can. Old days paint cans were tin top to bottom. Nowadays the cans are plastic with a tin rim and lid. If I go with the "turn the can slowly" it will be mounted on an angle as yet to be determined. The idea is that keeping the paint moving will keep it mixed. It won't mix as fast as those shakers in the paint stores have but then again I can simply put it on the rotisserie and let it run over night.

Been building Built-In cabinets and custom doors for the wife. The doors are ready for paint. Usually I can paint four doors in one day. The reason is I don't have a place to store the doors while the paint dries. So they need to get painted on the face, dry, flip over, paint and dry; four at a time on my work bench.

 

I don't think half wave rectification would be a problem.

It can be, as it generates a DC current in the transformer output equal to the rectified average, which tends to saturate the core.
This can cause high primary transformer currents.

 

I use one of these (230AC->90vDC version) for my mini-mill spindle speed control. Works well. This 110AC -> 110v DC version would do the job you want safely and easily.

 

It can be, as it generates a DC current in the transformer output equal to the rectified average, which tends to saturate the core.
This can cause high primary transformer currents.

Great info. Thanks.

I use one of these (230AC->90vDC version) for my mini-mill spindle speed control. Works well. This 110AC -> 110v DC version would do the job you want safely and easily.

Don't need to spend money. Don't WANT to spend money.
Today is an adopted daughter's birthday. 34. Taking her out to dinner. If time permits today I'll look around to see if I have a TM controller. If not I'll just get a full wave rectifier at RS. Can't imagine spending less. Unless I can come across some of the salvaged FWB rectifiers I KNOW I have.

 

These are the materials I have on hand:
Fuse 2A
Switch 16A 125VAC
Auto Transformer GE Model 9T92A1 50/60HZ 2.5A
GBU1005 10A Full Wave Bridge
0.47µF 300V Capacitor
140VDC 2A Motor

This is how I envision assembling the rig.

On the Auto Transformer there are a few aberrations from the drawing program. Assume them to be straight lines please.

Do you see any issues I've overlooked? Anything you consider to be less than ideal? As for the ratings I don't plan on running the motor full power.

As for the plans on putting a magnet or a steel ball in it - I've chosen a different approach: Mount the paint can in a tumbler and turn it end over end. The lid will be held shut by the assembly that holds the paint can. The motor will merely rotate it like a rotisserie.