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In my opinion, this is a better buy, better still if there are no missing knobs.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154105289876
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154105289876
noob and oscilloscope
- Thread starter v1x2w3
- Start date
A correction. I don't think the hardware/firmware on my little scope and this one are the same. I think this one is probably based on the DSO 138 and mine is not. In fact I can't find any listings for my little scope at this point, which is strange.
I did a little test, a sine wave at 20KHz, 1V P-P. Not too bad, frequency spot on. Though at 20Hz the voltage measurement was more accurate.
The TDS360 was a very good scope. A clue for you is the 3.5" floppy and the CRT. If someone handed it to you I would't turn it down but it is not a substitute for the Siglent if you do plan to buy that.I hate to push my luck, but the same ebay seller has some digital oscilloscopes offered.
At lower price than the Siglent, is this used Tek comparable? Better, worse, stick with the Siglent?
Yes, that is a better scope, and newer. It even has an LCD display. But if he is willing to get the Siglent, I am still feeling better about that, especially in the long run. Plus, for now it will retain a high resale value should that become a thing.
lol No doubt it will by my beneficiaries, but hopefully not soon.
Thank you both for your continued input. Let's hope that I can fix something before my first disaster.
That $179 unit is more than I'd like to spend. (I'm assuming the Klein MM400 capacitance functions are inadequate.)
How about this $35 beauty?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CYSV5LY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1
I didn‘t think you’d want to buy the better one, it was an example. I don’t know that brand but it looks reasonable. Not autoranging but that‘s one reason it’s cheaper, so that’s good. It has good reviews. I would risk it if I was looking for that class of meter.That $179 unit is more than I'd like to spend. (I'm assuming the Klein MM400 capacitance functions are inadequate.)
How about this $35 beauty?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CYSV5LY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1
lol I missed the floppy drive.
If you are just starting out with fault-finding audio equipment, you don't need an LCR tester.
Your DMM will be your best tool for starters (besides the tool between the ears).
Your second best tool (or is it the 3rd?) will be a schematic diagram of what you are trying to fix.
Your DMM will be your best tool for starters (besides the tool between the ears).
Your second best tool (or is it the 3rd?) will be a schematic diagram of what you are trying to fix.
I hate to bring it up at this point…
But I assume you have a decent soldering iron, a reasonable set of screwdrivers, a pair of mini flush cutters, and a pair of small needle nose pliers… and a small flashlight (not too bright and with a small head), and good task lighting.
But I assume you have a decent soldering iron, a reasonable set of screwdrivers, a pair of mini flush cutters, and a pair of small needle nose pliers… and a small flashlight (not too bright and with a small head), and good task lighting.
These cheap but extremely handy little "Transistor Tester" IS also an LCR meter. Not quite as accurate as a good bench meter but very close. I keep mine within reach on the bench for quick checks. Can't beat the price and USB rechargeable. If I could only have two instruments, it would be this and a DMM. It doesn't do volts or amps...
MaxHeadRoom
- Joined Jul 18, 2013
- 30,680
My brother in law owned a screwdriver once.
He already ordered one of those because I suggested that particular model but while it can do some LCR functions, its limitations and accuracy are pretty severe compared to a proper LCR meter.
These are really good. And I use my constantly. It also helps when my eyes are tired and the colored bands on the resistors are dancing around…
TS appears to be on a shopping spree without having a complete roadmap as to where they will be heading with all those newly acquired toys.
The first line of attack is to have a concrete plan of trouble shooting procedures. No tools required.
My strategy with most repair jobs is as follows:
1) What is the history of the unit?
2) Was it observed to be working?
3) Were there any symptoms when it failed?
4) Of course, make, model, serial number.
5) Are schematics available?
6) Look, smell, touch.
7) Any evidence of abuse, damaged components, blown fuses?
8) and the list goes on...
The first line of attack is to have a concrete plan of trouble shooting procedures. No tools required.
My strategy with most repair jobs is as follows:
1) What is the history of the unit?
2) Was it observed to be working?
3) Were there any symptoms when it failed?
4) Of course, make, model, serial number.
5) Are schematics available?
6) Look, smell, touch.
7) Any evidence of abuse, damaged components, blown fuses?
8) and the list goes on...
My impression is he has parallel projects in progress, but it is certainly sensible of you to bring it back to the original reason.
When I lived in Boston, I worked in a used audio store. It as the era of the big tuner amp from people like Sansui, Kenwood, and Kenwood. And, we used to buy things used, then resell them to frats and the like, being a big college town.
When someone brought in one of those monsters, our buyer (not me, I couldn’t have tolerated the feeling of sliminess) would ask if it worked. Almost universally the answer was “it lights up but doesn’t makes sounds”.
So, he’s look at it, and plug it in, and confirm the report. Then, he would say, “well, I can give you 5 bucks for it”. Of course the seller would say “five bucks?! Come on, can’t you give me a hundred?” (As an aside, the Blue Book value (yes, we had one of those) could be anything up to $300 on such a piece)
He would explain, “well, it’s not working. I don’t know why. It could be the final transistors and that would cost me a lot of money to have fixed.” (This was true, as far as it went. It could be, it did happen. And, it would cost us probably $100 or so to repair it.)
“Can’t you give me 50?” “No sorry, I don’t want it.” “OK, OK, I‘lol take the 10”
We wrote it up, got ID, recorded it in the log book (we were like a pawn shop, and had to report all buys to the police and hold them for 30 days) and the seller would leave with his 10, not very happy but also not lugging what was to them, a boat anchor.
Then, we‘d replace the speaker fuses. Nine times out of ten, that was the only issue. Sometimes, we had to replace the little light bulbs behind the panel. We‘d clean it up and 30 days later it went on the shelf for $300. We’d sell it to a frat in a couple of days, and thanks to our policy of paying 50% of the purchase price on a resale if it was in the same condition, we’d get it back at the end of the school year for $150… unless the speaker fuses were blown, then…
With any luck, it will not be blame but credit for your enjoyable new hobby well equipped. Also, you will be able to impress your friends with the wavy lines and blinking lights.I blame Yaakov. I wanted a $50 Oscilloscope, but NOOOO.....
