Does your motor have a P.M. rotor? Spin the rotor and see if it 'cogs'.
If so, then it is most likely a ECM motor also.
And the board will be the commutator board.
Max.

 

Here's a clue:


Maybe that's what the control board does

Back to the capacitors, I think the polarized ones will work. Pick one with a high ripple rating from whatever your supplier has on hand that has the same or higher working voltage and same capacitance. Two leads will work, but you need to fix the pad that is mangled.

 

Does this help?
You can search on the industry code CD294 for a datasheet (attached). Then use those specs to cross to a better brand like Nichicon or Cornell Dubilier. If you search on something like cd294 capacitor 200V 820uF nichicon you get what looks like a couple of good candidates at Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Comp...vqx?P=1z0wrjoZ1z0j7l0Z1z0x1fnZ1yx4as7Z1z0vhz5

The CD294 datasheet calls out the particulars for the series and it looks like they match up pretty well with the two candidates at Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/381LR821M200J042?qs=PXF%2Blbo4VJ6Np/6s0fe9nw==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LGW2D821MELA40?qs=isV%2BNJxyrb4RSJbTNI41Gw==

The third pin just looks like it ensures that they put the cap in the right way.

Good luck!

 

Does your motor have a P.M. rotor? Spin the rotor and see if it 'cogs'.
If so, then it is most likely a ECM motor also.
And the board will be the commutator board.
Max.

 

Here's a clue:
View attachment 216100

Maybe that's what the control board does

Back to the capacitors, I think the polarized ones will work. Pick one with a high ripple rating from whatever your supplier has on hand that has the same or higher working voltage and same capacitance. Two leads will work, but you need to fix the pad that is mangled.

I would think the polarized ones are what has to be on there since that's what has been on it for 10 years. What would be the best way to fix the pad that I mangled?

 

If the mounting tabs are still OK, what I usually do is patch in a new copper trace made from dry-wick braided de-soldering copper solder wick.
Or suitable gauge copper single strand conductor. You would need to expose the present copper trace in order to renew the connection, sand off the varnish..
Max.

 

Does this help?
You can search on the industry code CD294 for a datasheet (attached). Then use those specs to cross to a better brand like Nichicon or Cornell Dubilier. If you search on something like cd294 capacitor 200V 820uF nichicon you get what looks like a couple of good candidates at Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Comp...vqx?P=1z0wrjoZ1z0j7l0Z1z0x1fnZ1yx4as7Z1z0vhz5

The CD294 datasheet calls out the particulars for the series and it looks like they match up pretty well with the two candidates at Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/381LR821M200J042?qs=PXF%2Blbo4VJ6Np/6s0fe9nw==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LGW2D821MELA40?qs=isV%2BNJxyrb4RSJbTNI41Gw==

The third pin just looks like it ensures that they put the cap in the right way.

Good luck!

This is from the company that made the factory caps. The "SA-TYPE" section shows the exact orientation of the 3 pins, but I don't know how to find out the part #. http://jianghai-america.com/uploads/products/Part_Number_of_SNAP_IN.pdf

 

If the mounting tabs are still OK, what I usually do is patch in a new copper trace made from dry-wick braided de-soldering copper solder wick.
Or suitable gauge copper single strand conductor. You would need to expose the present copper trace in order to renew the connection, sand off the varnish..
Max.

The pads don't look so good.

 

The pads don't look so good.

That's a understatement. Get some solder wick. Clean the residual solder, then clean the flux and crud with something . 99% isopropyl alcohol, absolute ethanol, or "flux cleaner" will work.

Are you sure this effort is worth it when you can buy a "remanufactured" board for $37 or less?

 

How does this one look? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/598-SLP821M200C4P3

 

The pads may be gone, but if the adjacent traces are OK then it is just a case of removing the coating and expose the copper of the trace and repair as I previously suggested.
If the mountings are damaged you may have to do a similar repair, if the damage results in unsatisfactory mounting, you may need to get inventive.
Max.

 

That's a understatement. Get some solder wick. Clean the residual solder, then clean the flux and crud with something . 99% isopropyl alcohol, absolute ethanol, or "flux cleaner" will work.

Are you sure this effort is worth it when you can buy a "remanufactured" board for $37 or less?

Yeah. I need t see if I can fix the board. I've never fixed a board with solder wick, but have wanted to try for a while. How should I get through that layer of clear crap, just carefully scrape it away?

 

Scrape it or fine emery etc.
One way of securing after mounting is to use silicone rubber/RTV, it can easily be removed if needed on a later occasion.
Max.

 

Yeah. I need t see if I can fix the board. I've never fixed a board with solder wick, but have wanted to try for a while. How should I get through that layer of clear crap, just carefully scrape it away?

OK with me, if you don't need to wash your cloths until Thanksgiving. How about fixing the washer first, then using the board you have messed up as a learning exercise.

 

OK with me, if you don't need to wash your cloths until Thanksgiving. How about fixing the washer first, then using the board you have messed up as a learning exercise.

This is an extra washer. If it was my only one I would have bought a new motor a long time ago...lol.

 

Scrape it or fine emery etc.
One way of securing after mounting is to use silicone rubber/RTV, it can easily be removed if needed on a later occasion.
Max.

I usually use a thin layer of hot glue around the bottom and in between the caps. But I can see where RTV would be easier to remove for sure.

 

. But I can see where RTV would be easier to remove for sure.

It is often used in original manuf. boards around the bottom of Electrolytic's to avoid vibration causing stress to the cap. connections.
Max.

 

If any of y'all ever order from Mouser, I wouldn't choose USPS Priority Mail. I ordered 2 caps at 1 AM this morning, thinking they would ship today, but USPS shipments don't ship till the following business day. And since I ordered after 12 AM, that means tomorrow. UPS and FedEx ship same day.

 

I usually use a thin layer of hot glue around the bottom and in between the caps. But I can see where RTV would be easier to remove for sure.

My experience is that hot glue is easier to remove. Hot glue releases and comes off easily and cleanly, often in one piece, if you simply put a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol at the joint between the object and the hot glue.

 

My experience is that hot glue is easier to remove. Hot glue releases and comes off easily and cleanly, often in one piece, if you simply put a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol at the joint between the object and the hot glue.

The alcohol tip is very much appreciated. I have spent quite a bit of time trying to carefully remove it and I should have just used alcohol...lol.