This (red arrow) is the trace:

View attachment 216077

If the capacitor fits between the bottom hole in this picture and the hole not shown, I 'd be sure there was continuity with the trace. Repair of where it is messed up may be difficult. You might need to scrape off the solder mask over the trace and solder a wire to it.

Curious, why did you decide to replace both capacitors?

Took a while to create this masterpiece of art. Wishing I had a stylus instead of a fat finger. The 2 circled that says 10mm are the two regular pin connections and the xtra one is the extra pin.

 

I have always obtaned these from a supplier that specifically sells these types of motor start capacitors, OR buy the OEM part.
Max.

Well therein lies the problem. This cap is no longer made and I can't find it anywhere. I have looked for about 2 weeks, consuming at least 8-10 hours. No luck with any appliance places either as far as cross-referencing them to one that will work.

 

This (red arrow) is the trace:

View attachment 216077

If the capacitor fits between the bottom hole in this picture and the hole not shown, I 'd be sure there was continuity with the trace. Repair of where it is messed up may be difficult. You might need to scrape off the solder mask over the trace and solder a wire to it.

Curious, why did you decide to replace both capacitors?

I want to replace both caps because both test bad.

 

Do you have any motor rewinding shops nearby?
This is one source of correct caps.
Max.

 

Do you have any motor rewinding shops nearby?
This is one source of correct caps.
Max.

Just called the first 5 that came up in Google search and all 5 said they do not sell parts.

 

The second picture in original post looks like a polarity marking stripe. At least that is what I thought it was. The Jianghai data sheet (http://english.jianghai.com/pdf/CD2...ALE&WT_FILE_FORMAT=pdf&WT_ASSET=Documentation and http://english.jianghai.com/mall2.aspx?nav=1&pid=CD294&type=1) also show polarized.

Maybe a better picture of the capacitor side would resolve that.

 

I use CDE (Dubilier) they make a range of both start and run caps, Digikey is one supplier, the series you need I believe is the CDE PSU type.
A polarized electrolytic is likely to blow at switch on.
Max.

 

As I stated earlier, Chinese motor capacitors are well known to cause premature failure in imported equipment with AC induction motors.
The one shown is Chinese manuf also, jianghai company.
I would ensure a N.A. make if possible.
Max.

 

CDE. Caps.
Max.

 

The second picture in original post looks like a polarity marking stripe. At least that is what I thought it was. The Jianghai data sheet (http://english.jianghai.com/pdf/CD294.pdf?fpsp=1&WT_TYPE=Reports or Presentations&WT_VENDOR=FREESCALE&WT_FILE_FORMAT=pdf&WT_ASSET=Documentation and http://english.jianghai.com/mall2.aspx?nav=1&pid=CD294&type=1) also show polarized.

Maybe a better picture of the capacitor side would resolve that.

Polarized.

 

As I stated earlier, Chinese motor capacitors are well known to cause premature failure in imported equipment with AC induction motors.
The one shown is Chinese manuf also, jianghai company.
I would ensure a N.A. make if possible.
Max.

The one shown is the original cap and the washer was 10 years old with no issues until it had a water leak this year. The leak led to the caps going bad. Do these caps have to be start caps? I wasn't thinking that at all until you mentioned it. But then I don't know much about washing machines, so....lol.

 

The typical non-solid electrolytic has a polarity indication, the typical solid electrolyte start capacitor is typically unmarked as to polarity.
Max.

 

The second picture in original post looks like a polarity marking stripe. At least that is what I thought it was. The Jianghai data sheet (http://english.jianghai.com/pdf/CD294.pdf?fpsp=1&WT_TYPE=Reports or Presentations&WT_VENDOR=FREESCALE&WT_FILE_FORMAT=pdf&WT_ASSET=Documentation and http://english.jianghai.com/mall2.aspx?nav=1&pid=CD294&type=1) also show polarized.

Maybe a better picture of the capacitor side would resolve that.

I did another measurement of the caps and they are 30mm x 45mm, not 32mm x 45mm. As I looked through the Jhangai datasheet you linked, I noticed there were no 32mm sizes, but lots of 30mm ones so I re-measured.

 

The typical non-solid electrolytic has a polarity indication, the typical solid electrolyte start capacitor is typically unmarked as to polarity.
Max.

Definitely polarized. And it weighs just 26 grams.

 

The typical non-solid electrolytic has a polarity indication, the typical solid electrolyte start capacitor is typically unmarked as to polarity.
Max.

Here is a pic of the motor complete.

 

Yep, That is an AC induction motor, so any start/run caps should be non-polarized.
I suspect that is why the high failure rate among Asian imported motors, (China).
Max.

 

Or, it's not a typical start capacitor. There's more on the board it came from, including an inductor.

EDIT:
Here's a link to the whole board: https://www.ebay.com/i/402322758958...MIo8Gmh4zG6wIVBNvACh0tUgZdEAYYBSABEgLnivD_BwE

In another listing for the entire motor and board, it is called an "inverter". https://www.partsimple.com/ge-wh20x...MIo8Gmh4zG6wIVBNvACh0tUgZdEAAYASAAEgJqS_D_BwE

 

Yep, That is an AC induction motor, so any start/run caps should be non-polarized.
I suspect that is why the high failure rate among Asian imported motors, (China).
Max.

I don't think it has start/run caps. Did you check out the circuit board? The caps are 30mm wide, so that gives you a little idea as to how big the board is.

 

Or, it's not a typical start capacitor. There's more on the board it came from, including an inductor.

EDIT:
Here's a link to the whole board: https://www.ebay.com/i/402322758958...MIo8Gmh4zG6wIVBNvACh0tUgZdEAYYBSABEgLnivD_BwE

In another listing for the entire motor and board, it is called an "inverter". https://www.partsimple.com/ge-wh20x...MIo8Gmh4zG6wIVBNvACh0tUgZdEAAYASAAEgJqS_D_BwE

Yes, I remember reading that now...it being called an inverter. Would that mean the motor is powered by DC? I've seen tons of them for sale, which is why I want to try to fix this one...lol. Too expensive.

 

Or, it's not a typical start capacitor. There's more on the board it came from, including an inductor.

EDIT:
Here's a link to the whole board: https://www.ebay.com/i/402322758958...MIo8Gmh4zG6wIVBNvACh0tUgZdEAYYBSABEgLnivD_BwE

In another listing for the entire motor and board, it is called an "inverter". https://www.partsimple.com/ge-wh20x...MIo8Gmh4zG6wIVBNvACh0tUgZdEAAYASAAEgJqS_D_BwE

I just fixed the G.E. ECM blower motor out of my neighbor's old furnace. He got a new outdoor and indoor unit because the motor went bad. A $5 thermistor fixed it. He definitely wasn't happy, because he paid $6,000 to replace the old one.