RS flip flop made with 74HCT02, input pulled low with resistors; Q output to unused two gates in package connected in parallel as buffer to drive PIR module; two gates in parallel can source 8 mA with 4.5 V supply & 4 V output - two resistors, one 14 pin IC.
At worst, instead of paralleled gates use P-channel MOSFET as high-side driver - gate directly to /Q output of flip flop.
Or build with 74ACT02, increasing sourcing current with 2 gates in parallel to 48 mA. Any single ACT flip flop with preset & clear would source 24 mA - 2 resistors and half a 14 pin package
idle current of any of the CMOS circuits in the range of 5 µA max at 25°C

The circuit with all the bits and pieces is (or would be, except for error) an RTL RS flip flop of sorts; bottom NPN shorts +5V to PIR module to ground - needs one more resistor, and yet another for bottom NPN base

 

if I am learning from someone who doesn't know what he is talking about, Please let me know.

Thanks

 

The circuit is close.
Make sure the FETs are right way up.
Add a base resistor to the bottom NPN
Put a resistor between the gate of the N-channel FET and +5 V to the PIR module (NPN collector stays connected to gate)
Make it clear that the end of that added resistor, the PFET drain, the +5 V to the PIR and the top of the 100k (don't really know what it is for) are connected.
All the resistors could be the same value, such as 47 k. None are critical.

Hand drawn schematics are OK, but take a bit of time to make them neat and legible and orient the photo properly.
If no one can understand what you want, no one can help. People have limited time and patience. Your words need to be chosen carefully. We generally cope pretty well with people whose first language is not English. We don't cope well with careless writing. We (or at least I) need to see evidence that people asking for help are putting in some effort at their end.

For example "you are familiar with a 1 button PUSH ON / PUSH OFF switch circuit?"
Most of the people here who answer questions are familiar with hundreds to thousands of circuit building blocks. To me, that statement says you have ONE signal and you want to use it to toggle (change the state of) a bistable device each time you send the signal - but you show us a circuit with separate signals to turn it on and off. Crutschow interpreted what you wrote exactly the same way I would. and showed you a very typical and complete, detailed toggle circuit at #15 (I'd have used a different flip flop (74HCT74) to eliminate the need for Q1, but Q1 is necessary for reliable operation with the flip flop he chose). You have annoyed someone who, in the short time I've been here, gives me a very strong impression of being very knowledgeable, very willing to try hard to help and very patient.

 

understood, and my apologies. I will make my best effort to adhere to policies and give my questions more thought before posting and respect those who offer their assistance.

I am trying to learn. it's frustrating to follow some ones direction only to find out they are as much a novice as me after spending my time and my money to try and accomplish a goal and have it flop.

that said, I need some advice from some one seasoned. I have a sd card reader/writer and a 2 1/2 watt audio amplifier the I need to power. I "think" it can be done with a mosfet switch. note, this is all based on low power arduino stuff. the arduino will "wake up" the switch will turn on the sd R/W and the amp with a logic HIGH. they will remain ON while the 328 chip does it's task then the logic HIGH will go LOW turning OFF the SD and AMP. after that is accomplished the arduino can go back to sleep. power consumption is the main concern. if you have any suggestions I would like to hear them.

my regards and apologies if I came across in a less than acceptable fashion.

Thanks

 

Are you sure you need a latch? The Arduino can output a high or low signal while sleeping. Why not just set it high, go the sleep, then set it low again when you wake up?

Bob

 

Hey Bob, Well, I didn't know that could be done. I just recently started exploring the POWER_DOWN and SLEEP_MODES and I am not real well schooled in them yet. I have 2 switch needs. I was thinking I could use the latch switch for the PIR. For the reason that everything happens really fast and turning it on and off would result in a bunch of false signals due to it takes about a minute for it to really stabilize. It has a pretty low quiescent current in standby, around 50-60 uAs and will run for 9 hours out of the day. Which looks like around 15-16 mAs a month. which is a 19 hour savings.

The second switch is really busy, it runs/turns on the SD read/write for 15 seconds out of every minute. So roughly 2.5 hrs of run time over the 9 hour period. Actually 2.5 hrs out of 24 hrs. Which is another improvement.

An N Channel would seem to be the better choice of N and P's. Send a logic high to turn it on when power is needed and in the case of the PIR just turn it on and leave it high. Now can I use these as either a high side or low side switch? Most everything I have seen has been low side. I believe there is a reason to chose one over the other but I'm just not sure what it is.

Fred

 

Are you sure you need a latch? The Arduino can output a high or low signal while sleeping. Why not just set it high, go the sleep, then set it low again when you wake up?

Bob

Hi Bob, I just discovered the answer is a definite YES. The reason I believe thru experimenting is that the gate of an N CH MOSFET is like a capacitor (in a sense) this won't be a technically correct explanation so bear with me. Once voltage is applied to the gate and it is charged and voltage flows from drain to source, you can remove the voltage from the gate and the MOSFET will remain ON. To turn it OFF the gate must be grounded. So though it may "technically" be called a latch circuit. For me it is simply an ON or OFF circuit.

I can see how it might be done going from high to low with the Arduino. Perhaps adding a pull down resistor? (back to the drawing board)

Well I'll be darned! It WORKS. I added a 10K pull down resistor and it seems to work fine. Thanks for the suggestion. I think the problem has been solved and I learned something too. The only other question would be the size of the resistor. Will that make much if any difference?

Thanks, Fred