hi DrC,
Are you saying, even on the 5V/cm you cannot move the Y axis low enough to see 9V.!

Use a DVM and measure the DC voltage.
E

Note: Have you got the Knob pulled Out or pushed In.?

 

View attachment 244388
this is my circuit with me trying to explain as best as I can

If you have the right components and the 555 is genuine then there has to be a wiring or supply voltage problem.
Post a photo of the opposite side as well.

 

If you have the right components and the 555 is genuine then there has to be a wiring or supply voltage problem.
Post a photo of the opposite side as well.

here you go, although note I cant do much until more parts come in. I did not clean off the flux on the board, as I do not have any cleaner right now, I am unsure if this is a problem as I have read that at higher temperatures flux can conduct.

 

Pull the IC out and tell us what voltage is on pins 1 and 8.

Make sure that you have the - on pin 1 and the + on pin 8.

 

I see no mention as to the output voltage of the converter with no load connected. Mostly the older converters have no regulation and so the output is much greater without the current draw. So that is the first thing to check.

 

I do remember doing a check with a multimeter and a polar led light. I will not cross out that this could have burnt them out as I did not know reverse polarity would kill the chip, so I could not have been careful as I should have been.

Two points:-
1) Volt Meters are basically of two types, digital display and older ones having a meter with a needle that moves to show the values. With the digital types, the red probe when connected to the "+", will show a Positive reading if that is the "+" output.
The older needle type display is generally the reverse, so a positive reading will only be seen if the black lead "-" is connected to the positive output. Though some high quality "Needle" designs had more complex circuitry, and are similar to a modern digital design.
An easy way to check what you have is to use any AA or AAA type cell and measure its voltage using the red test cable on the "+" of the battery, as the polarity is usually marked, and it will also be the smaller contact that supplies a "+". So you will see a "Positive" indication. Try it both ways to "get used to" checking this out!
2) There are basically two types of Plug in power supplies around. As already mentioned by someone, the older designs, are made to output the stated voltage (let us call these Analog!), in this case they deliver 9 volts, but ONLY when drawing the maximum current, and could be anything up to 16 volts when only lightly loaded - DANGEROUS for delicate electronics.
Most newer designs will tend to use SMPS (Switched Mode Power Supply) chips, and an internal load resistor, that keeps the voltage at (or very close to) the set level, 9 volts in this case, loaded or not, at any current level within its designed capability. These SMPS designs are the ones to buy and use as they also use far less power from the mains when lightly loaded, being more efficient, and are less likely to run hot.
For any design, always check with your multi-meter, making sure that the red and black leads are in the correct socket!
Also, for polarity safety, always place a diode in the supply line, to block any reverse connection, thereby saving your delicate chips, if/when you accidentally get the supply polarity the wrong way round. This is often done by the manufacturers of battery equipment, to save the electronics when someone attaches power/batteries, reversed!
If you have any further questions, please ask.
Andy

 

REally, the older type supplies are NON-REGULATED, while the switch-mode supplies are regulated by their very nature, which is that they switch the power flow on and off to hold a constant output voltage. There is another variety that is less common today, which is the LINEAR regulated supply. The are much less efficient but much easier to design.