I had an illuminated mini switch (4-prong) that turned on 12v lights in 12 luggage compartments. When I opened panel one of the leads on the switch was "scorched" and the switch was dead. I bought a new switch, (3-prong). I was able to make it illuminate and turn the lights on, but the leads get very hot. What should I look for to correct this situation?

Someone thought one of the "bayonet" lights in one of the luggage bay was drawing too much power. I can send pictures.

Thank you.

 

Welcome to AAC!

If you want any meaningful feedback, you need to provide information regarding how the original switch was wired, how you wired the replacement, the specs for both switches, whether the switch is hot to the touch all of the time or only when it's on, and what load the switch is switching.

 

Just as a guess, "mini-switch" + "bayonet base" incandescent bulb = too much current. If that is true, you can replace the switch every week and the heat problem won't go away until you use a better switch or lower current for the lights. So, start with the current rating for the switch and how much current you actually need.

 

Welcome to AAC!

If you want any meaningful feedback, you need to provide information regarding how the original switch was wired, how you wired the replacement, the specs for both switches, whether the switch is hot to the touch all of the time or only when it's on, and what load the switch is switching.

Thank you. When I get home I can put pictures together with explanation. We are on the road. But, I can tell you it only gets hot when I turn the switch on.

 

Just as a guess, "mini-switch" + "bayonet base" incandescent bulb = too much current. If that is true, you can replace the switch every week and the heat problem won't go away until you use a better switch or lower current for the lights. So, start with the current rating for the switch and how much current you actually need.

I am wondering if I changed one (more)of the lights at a truck stop and used the wrong type(s). It was set up this way from the factory and we have had it for quite some and we are just now having this problem.

Per the other post, I will also map it out for you both understand better. Thanks for getting me started.

 

I am wondering if I changed one (more)of the lights at a truck stop and used the wrong type(s). It was set up this way from the factory and we have had it for quite some and we are just now having this problem.

Per the other post, I will also map it out for you both understand better. Thanks for getting me started.

I was wondering the same thing. It sounds like you have multiple lights all turned on via one switch. I would try pulling all the lights then see if the switch still gets hot. I suspect it will be fine.

Then you can see if the lamps have any marking you can look up. Worst case, put the lights back in one by one till the switch gets warm.

 

Bayonets bulbs come in many different wattages. Read the wattage stamped into the steel of the bulb base. Read the lamp holder in the motor home. Make sure the bulb is equal or less wattage than the housing limit.

 

Thank you all for your input. I have now taken the time to answer the things you asked me. I have attached a pdf with pictures of how the old switch was wired, how the new switch is now wired and side by side pictures of each. In the original wiring there was a "cross-over" connection in the back of the switch. In the NEW switch, which had fewer prongs in different places, I did not need to make the cross-over connection. In wiring the new switch, I got it to work and simply capped the cross-over connection.

As a precaution, I changed out all of the bulbs which were slightly different numbers to all 1141 bulbs. The are twelve cabinets with these 1141 bulbs at 18.4 W / 1.44 Amps. I found one fixture all rusted out and I removed it. I have a new one but left it out of the system for now.

All of the lights work, but unfortunately, the switch prongs still get hot in the back ONLY WHEN THE SWITCH IS ON, they are cool otherwise.

Your help would be appreciated.

 

Thank you all for your input. I have now taken the time to answer the things you asked me. I have attached a pdf with pictures of how the old switch was wired, how the new switch is now wired and side by side pictures of each. In the original wiring there was a "cross-over" connection in the back of the switch. In the NEW switch, which had fewer prongs in different places, I did not need to make the cross-over connection. In wiring the new switch, I got it to work and simply capped the cross-over connection.

As a precaution, I changed out all of the bulbs which were slightly different numbers to all 1141 bulbs. The are twelve cabinets with these 1141 bulbs at 18.4 W / 1.44 Amps. I found one fixture all rusted out and I removed it. I have a new one but left it out of the system for now.

All of the lights work, but unfortunately, the switch prongs still get hot in the back ONLY WHEN THE SWITCH IS ON, they are cool otherwise.

Your help would be appreciated.

Bare copper is exposed between the connector and where the insulation on one of your brown wires. This could be touching the frame of the mobile home once you stuff the switch back in the mounting position? If so, you could be shorting it out once the the switch is turned on.

It could just be a bad connector. Once they get hot, they get blac copper oxide in them and don't conduct well. This poor connection is a few ohms and can turn into a few watts of heat (and will feel warm/hot - depending on how well it can radiate the heat away).

I would change the spade connector that was overheated.

 

The "old" switch is rated for 15A at 28V, which is basically how you use it. 12 lights at 1.44 amps each is 17.28 amps, or too much for this switch to handle. The new switch may be rated higher but all I see are AC ratings (meaning it ma not be rated for DC use).

Have any lamps been added to this circuit? It just seems like a very large draw on this switch.

Perhaps some nice LED bulbs would fix the problem for the next 20,000 hours.

 

It could just be a bad connector. Once they get hot, they get blac copper oxide in them and don't conduct well. This poor connection is a few ohms and can turn into a few watts of heat (and will feel warm/hot - depending on how well it can radiate the heat away).
I would change the spade connector that was overheated.

I vote for the bad connection as well. The crimp could have been faulty from the get go. It looks like there is some corrosion there.

Sometimes the female connection gets loose and causes this as well.

FWIW, some chinese stuff has tabs/connectors made of metric-sized material, just a bit thinner than the .032" US tab. They don't fit tight and I've seen them melt the cases right off switches and relays.