If it would have one button for each floor it will be less conplicated for you to build and for us to design. So think about it.

 

whatever is easier is fine

 

sorry for inturpt;my broject like this so i'd like to ask you about using two switches in each floor except at first and last floors.thanks

 

sorry for inturpt;my broject like this so i'd like to ask you about using two switches in each floor except at first and last floors.thanks

You are talking about selective calling? This is too complicated to be discussed in here. It should be discussed in your thread.

Don't hijack someone else's thread. It will only create confusion.

 

yes, thank you

 

So, is this the final answer do it like the last diagram stated? or are there any other ideas?

 

I've been thinking about the Wookie's idea of logic chips. This would indeed use less power, but would be much more complicated for a beginner to build. (There would be a printed circuit board, lots of soldering, etc.)

This will mean going with rechargeable batteries, or a plug-in type 9VDC "wall-wart." (You can get these for a couple bucks if you ask around locally.)

I suggest using either Cumesoftware's schematic or my last schematic.

If you go with Cumesoftware's design, you'll need to get either 2 "form C" relays and 2 "DPDT" relays or 4 DPDT relays. If you go with mine, you'll need 2 DPDT relays. Make sure the relay coils are made to work on 9VDC. Rating on the relay contacts will surely be more than what is needed here.

Either way, you'll need four micro-switches. Get "normally closed" switches or "SPST" switches for Cumesoftware's desing. Get "normally open" or SPST for mine.

You'll need a 9VDC motor. I think a #10-24 or #12-24 screw should be adequate for "matchbox" scale cars. You'll need 2 "normally open momentary contact" switches for the "up" and "down" controls.

I suggest getting parts with terminal lugs if you can. You should then be able to use appropriately sized crimp-on lugs to connect your wires. No soldering will be required, but I suggest getting a decent quality crimping tool. Cheap crimping tools don't even make for good scrap metal.

If you decide to use the rechargeable batteries, you'll need a 9V battery clip.

A cheap multimeter would be a big help if any troubleshooting is needed. Even an imported $6.00 meter will help immensely if component markings are absent or hard to read.

OH! And wire. I always forget wire. (Good thing I have a big supply of wire.)