Are the double stacks matched angular contact bearings or you're just not showing the shims between ?

How'd you attack the lower bearing, just out of interest ?

I didn't post those drawings to discuss my design. That would be way too far off the topic of the Thread Starter. I only posted them to show that I'm not a complete amateur who thinks he's going to do professional quality milling with a drill press.

And please forgive the horrid drawings. I was just beginning to learn how to use MSPaint. My pencil drafting is much better.

 

Ah well neither am I hear to discuss your drawings, sorry for my interest in your design, I'll learn to keep my interest to myself in future.

 

Starting your own conversation in the middle of somebody else's Thread is called, "hijacking". It is against the rules on this website. It's only good manners to allow the owner of the Thread to pursue his goal with a minimum of side-tracking. If the Thread Starter entertains your idea, you are free to run with it. He "owns" the Thread.

If you want to have your own Thread about Drill Press hacking, you are free to start one. The appropriate Forum would be, "Off Topic" because it is not about electronics.

And please, try to be less irritating as you learn Forum etiquette.

 

Using a suitable fence it is easy to drill a line of slightly-overlapping holes with a standard drill bit. The workpiece needs to be clamped for each hole. A file can then remove the metal jaggies between the holes.

As a machinist type person, who actually owns a mill, I agree with Alec. I do it all the time even in steel plate of 1/4" or less. For a single or double pair of slots it works faster then setting up the mill. The only different thing I do is to drill a pilot hole, a smaller (like 1/8 for a 1/4 slot) before opening up the holes to a desired size. This allows the full size drill to still stay on position as the holes overlap. A small square file then finishes the slot in no time.

 

As a machinist type person, who actually owns a mill, I agree with Alec. I do it all the time even in steel plate of 1/4" or less. For a single or double pair of slots it works faster then setting up the mill. The only different thing I do is to drill a pilot hole, a smaller (like 1/8 for a 1/4 slot) before opening up the holes to a desired size. This allows the full size drill to still stay on position as the holes overlap. A small square file then finishes the slot in no time.

That's probably how I'd end up making a slot. Doesn't the TS need a countersink though? Anything less than all the way through adds a lot of complexity to the drill-and-file approach.

 

I think the other down side to a D.Press for milling aluminum is the rpm, I have a small CNC knee mill and I found the 3600rpm spindle a little low, I picked up a small sub spindle for H.S. milling of aluminum panels etc.
Max.

 

That's probably how I'd end up making a slot. Doesn't the TS need a countersink though? Anything less than all the way through adds a lot of complexity to the drill-and-file approach.

I thought he was going all the way through. Don't know if it would be possible that way blind. A dremel and burr would work in a blind slot after drilling.

 

I think the other down side to a D.Press for milling aluminum is the rpm, I have a small CNC knee mill and I found the 3600rpm spindle a little low, I picked up a small sub spindle for H.S. milling of aluminum panels etc.
Max.

Wow, I've been doing and learned this machinist stuff all wrong.