MC2100 treadmill motor control circuit

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
30,689
If this is used off of the TM it is OK to run without HS for a short period for testing.
The IRF250 is a Mosfet, to drive the motor, the SCR is next to it and is usually a S4025 etc.
U1 is the PWM opto input to the Micro, U2 send data to the console IIRC it is the belt sensor
 
If this is used off of the TM it is OK to run without HS for a short period for testing.
The IRF250 is a Mosfet, to drive the motor, the SCR is next to it and is usually a S4025 etc.
U1 is the PWM opto input to the Micro, U2 send data to the console IIRC it is the belt sensor
Thanks. I will try replacing those items and go from there.
 
Thanks. I will try replacing those items and go from there.
replaced S4025L with 6025L,and IRFP250N and still have runaway when duty cycle goes just slightly above starting threshold. I'm stymied at this point. I have looked at the reverse engineered drawings but don't know enough for them to help me. Some component with a control voltage is breaking down. I guess any three legged component is suspect for me.
 

novo

Joined May 3, 2022
3
Hi friends, I need some help.
I have 2 mc2100e boards
replaces
Q5 g4pc40w
U5 ir2127
R34 , R35 200r
now the engine works fine without a treadmill
When I put the belt on the treadmill, it seems to have no strength!
low speed works but r19 starts to heat up a lot
someone can help me ? thank you
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
30,689
Is that R19 or R9?
The large ceramic one on stand off support.?
If so it does run hot, it drops the HV DC to 10v via a Zener.
The problam could also be the belt sensor?
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
30,689
What is the MC2100 version on the board?
It appears to be in the SCR circuit for the DC HV control, Test the output voltage on the motor +terminal when a command is given.
I don't have the actual schematic for that version, there were a few made.
 

KingAether

Joined Jan 29, 2020
26
Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask but you're definitely the people to ask!
A few years ago there was a steady supply of the mc2100 board in the UK but that's long gone and in the meantime i've used the ones i brought.
Does anyone know if someone has designed or started producing an alternative that will run most treadmill motors as the 2100 does; ideally someone noticed the gap in the market and has made or designed a version with the add-on pot board built on.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
30,689
The one company in N.A. that has made DC motor controllers for some years , both SCR bridge and PWM is KB Electronics.
I made a small picmicro add-on board for the MC2100's..
 

KingAether

Joined Jan 29, 2020
26
Ill check out Kb thanks.
Another question. It would be ideal due to the scarcity of the boards here it would be great to be able to make it plug and play. Any idea if a pcb socket connection would work wired from the -+ pins on the mc2100 to the back of the enclosure and put a male on the cables from each motor ?
 
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MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
30,689
Ill check out Kb thanks.
Another question. It would be ideal due to the scarcity of the boards here it would be great to be able to make it plug and play. Any idea if a pcb socket connection would work wired from the -+ pins on the mc2100 to the back of the enclosure and put a male on the cables from each motor ?
Sounds like you are talking about a custom jig set up ?
Any suitable plug and socket with the right rating would work.
 

KingAether

Joined Jan 29, 2020
26
Sounds like you are talking about a custom jig set up ?
Any suitable plug and socket with the right rating would work.
Ive been having a look around and not being the most knowledgeable about general connections etc; could you recommend something that would be strong and can take being put in and out a bunch. My first thought was a kettle lead with the earth core snipped
 

KingAether

Joined Jan 29, 2020
26
Seems a little big to have a 13a 3pin socket on the back of the small enclosure compared to a kettle lead for 2 wires.
Just to clarify im taking about wiring a short run from the motor output pins on the pcb to the back of the enclosure so i can put the kettle plug on the red/black from the motor.
 
Seeing as this seems to be the main repository for people's work on fixing these controllers, please could I ask for a bit of assistance. My primary questions are underlined if someone would be so kind as to share their experience.
I have the MC2100-ELS-18w-2y controller, 240v, 130VDC 2.5hp motor. The person I got the treadmill from said it stopped working and he sent the motor for reconditioning (I dont know what they charged him but all they did was swap the brushes and bearings). I have a PWM controller set at 20Hz for the tests.

I plugged everything in and it blew the 13a fuse immediately while the motor spun up to very high rpm (and, of course, slowed down straight away as the power had died). I tested the output on the motor connections and it was reading 320VDC so the IGBT appeared to have died. I replaced it and am now reading constant 220VDC at the motor connections. No matter what I set the PWM generator to it has no impact on the output voltage seen on the motor connections (should it?).

Also, I've used a 60w incandescent light bulb across the motor connections and it lights constantly, with no change despite changing the PWM % (is this a valid test?). I am a bit weary of just constantly popping fuses in the process of troubleshooting this so I'd like to work out how I can know when I've solved it before plugging in the motor.

The LED is blinking 7 times at a moderate rate before stopping for a couple of seconds and then resuming the 7 blinks. Searching the net has revealed nothing about this number of blinks - any ideas?

Thanks very much for any assistance shared.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
30,689
You can use a lamp for testing, when working, it should shut off when the 50Hz PWM signal is off.
Have you checked Q1 the SCR that ramps the HV DC up?
Are you using the reverse-engineered schematic ? (Previously posted here).
 
You can use a lamp for testing, when working, it should shut off when the 50Hz PWM signal is off.
Have you checked Q1 the SCR that ramps the HV DC up?
Are you using the reverse-engineered schematic ? (Previously posted here).
Sorry, can I just check. I thought it required 20Hz rather than 50Hz? I did just try 50Hz in case and there was no change.
I have been using the schematic but I dont have any of the IGBT or SCR drivers to swap out to test them. And while I dont mind testing live equipment, I dont really know what values I should be seeing - could you give me some to check please?
I'm guessing you mean Q3 - the SCR - rather than Q1 which looks like it interacts with the original controller board and is unused in the setup with the PWM generator.
Many thanks for your assistance.
 
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