Hey! Hope all well. I was able to only get an 18min run done before it crapped out again. When it stopped, I tried starting again and the motor would run for less than a second and then stop. Kept doing that. I then removed the cover and unplugged the treadmill from the power. Now it doesn't turn on. The red LED on the board has a slow blinking light instead of a solid red. Suggestions?

 

What intermittent sequence rate is the LED blinking ?
Does the console have power?

 

What intermittent sequence rate is the LED blinking ?
Does the console have power?

It's was a slow dim blink every second or so. It had power to the console.

However, once I unplugged from the wall and plugged back in, no power to the console and LED is still slow din blink every second or so.

 

First disconnect the motor, then power up, normally the slow steady blink is a seized motor or jambed belt.
Try substituting a lamp in place of the motor to see if it glows when the belt should be stopped.
Also disconnect the HD2 connector and see if it still blinks.
Maybe put the main board on the bench and just apply power and measure the various DC voltage on the semi conductors on the heatsink.
Power up board with only power connected.

 

Disconnected it all and reconnected. Same slow dim LED blink every second or so.

 

Measure pins 1&2 on HD2 socket, should be ~14vdc, also pins 10 & 20 on the micro-processor, should be 5vdc.

 

Any luck with a schematic for this board?

 

The schematic is basically the same as most of them, and has previously been posted here, just the LV DC power supply is SMPS version using the now obsolete G5551 IC, if this is where the issue is It is simple to replace it with a off-board Wall-Wart or similar PS.
Trouble shoot it on the bench with just power applied.
The LV can be measured at HD2 pin 1 & 2.

 

My NordicTrack X9i has just decided to stop moving. Console and incline are fine. These motor controllers seem to be very fragile!

Odd that there is no diagnostics in the console? Just an LED on the controller board?

I've had a read through this thread so maybe with a bit of luck it will be just a lose wire as it stoped working about 5 mins after being trasported...

 

At start-up the LED is lit continuously. After start-up the LED flashes. It starts at a higher speed and then decreases and works normally. But the igbt transistor heats up hard and burns out.

Hello bro.did you fix this problem ? i have the exact issue. TNX

 

At start-up the LED is lit continuously. After start-up the LED flashes. It starts at a higher speed and then decreases and works normally. But the igbt transistor heats up hard and burns out.

Sa imi spui si mie te rog daca ai rezolvat problema asta.ms

 

Hi all,

Debated whether to post here or start a new thread - decided for here.

I have an MC2100ELS in a Nordictrack T9.2 treadmill that is misbehaving (we bought it faulty hoping to repair it). I am in the UK so we have 240V ac. My board looks identical to the one in this post. Also Max Headroom's post here was enormously helpful (found thanks to Google); although not the same model you'd be surprised just how much is the same. Yes mine has an IGBT (switching on the high side of the motor) - but the current limiting and voltage monitoring circuits seem identical (see my sketch of the power side attached below).

Key questions:
- Does the 240V version treadmill have a different motor to the 110V?
- What is the current limit from the MC2100ELS supposed to be?

Symptoms:
- The treadmill appears to function perfectly until you stand on it, at which point the motor torque is not high enough to move the belt - the belt (and motor) is very easy to stall.
- Someone (lacking competence) has had it apart before. The rubber drive belt was lubricated! Also the motor has been messed with; one of the securing bolts had been replaced with the wrong part, motor wires were fixed with different cable ties to the rest of the unit, motor wires touching the running belt. Running belt tension was very loose (the belt drive roller would slip, you could get your whole arm under the walking belt). Many screws for the plastic trim are missing or their moulded posts broken.

Test kit:
- Digital Multimeter, Current measurement resistor (0.33R), stopwatch on mobile phone, measuring tape

Tests performed:
- Motor OK. Dismantled/checked/cleaned, windings not burnt out, good brushes, magnets seem to have good strength. will run well directly from 24V (two car batteries) and pulling around 16A, the treadmill can be walked on fine. (This test found the lubricated drive belt as initially the multirib drive belt pulleys just slipped.) Motor functions as a generator; can record a voltage from its terminals, when attempting to turn the walking belt, also shorting the motor wires give an increase in mechanical resistance to turning the belt.
- Mechanically it seems fine, bearings all seem good, walking belt seems sufficiently lubricated.
- Controller LED functions as expected, no error codes (lit constantly when powered up, flashing regularly when belt running)
- Reed switch working (checked with multimeter vs magnet). Unplugging the speed sensor (reed switch) doesn't do much!
- Calibration seems excellent, running the treadmill through its different speeds (and timing the running belt rotations with a stopwatch and bit of tape) shows it to be within 0.5km/h on all speeds, it's probably out just by my measurement error (full measurements on attachment below)
- Controller output/input to the motor (on a multimeter) without attempting to walk on the belt varies from 8.8V/1.56A at 1km/h to 113V/2.7A at 20km/h. Attempted the same with reed switch disconnected, 120V maximum recorded (full measurements on attachment below)
- Stall current at all speeds (with 0.33R measurement resistor in series with motor) around 4A
- High voltage bus (across two power capacitors) monitored, drops to around 320V when motor accelerating belt, climbs to around 335V when motor unloaded. (The thyristor earlier in the circuit only allows power to reach the capacitors when a speed is selected on the treadmill controls.)
- Voltage across the 0.01R current monitoring resistor monitored, managed to record 0.05V (so 5A) at stall (without my 0.33R current measurement resistor in series with the motor).
- Shorting link placed across 0.0R current monitoring resistor (attempting to remove any current limiting). Can successfully walk on the treadmill! IGBT gets warm while walking on the belt. Also speed regulation seems poor. Although this "bodge" "works", I don't want to run it this way if there's another fault, as it removes the MCU protection for over-current situations.

Suspicions:
(1) Has it got a US motor in it when it should have a UK one? We've not been able to find a photo of a "UK model" motor but most UK treadmills seem to have 180V DC (or higher) motors, ours is rated at 130V (part# F-316708) - and it has clearly been "out" at some point. The seller repeatedly claimed it to have a faulty motor, as if he knew something. Had he swapped the motor for an incorrect one bought on ebay (from the US) that is for a 110V spec treadmill? (And then calibrated the treadmill correctly)? We asked Icon, the chap we spoke to said they'd definitely be different part numbers for US and UK motors, but he didn't know the spec. of them.

(From the equation of force on a conductor, F=BLi, for fixed B [permanent magnets] and a fixed current limit i from the controller, a 240V motor will have more windings of thinner wire, hence more L, thus produce more force F - and more torque.)

(2) Is the controller not producing enough current (and if so, what is faulty)? (Again from F=BLi, output force [torque] is proportional to current.) The bridge rectifier (gbj25m) and thyristor (s8025l) are both rated at 25A, the mains input filter at 10A, the IGBT (g4pc40k) at 25A (100degC) or 42A (25degC). This seems overkill if the currents I am measuring are correct. The controller runs cold (except when I've shorted the current measurement resistor).

The treadmill is rated at 1500W (6.25A input). The motor is rated at "2.75HP Cont Duty @ 130V/2052WATTS" - 2kW at 130V is 15A. Also this video on Youtube (on diagnosing the LED blink pattern) from Icon (the treadmill manufacturer) says the controller will go into a protection mode if the current exceeds 34A. Again currents way higher than what I've measured.

The voltage across the power capacitors seems OK and I see no sign of capacitor failure. The current measurement resistor seems OK (it's not gone high Z) and shorting it seems to partly solve the issue, so does this point to the IGBT? I'm no IGBT expert, can one fail in a way that it goes high-resistance and prevents current flow? Can it's gain reduce like a failed regular NPN/PNP transistor, reducing the expected current throughput vs its drive input? (I think I should just load the parts cannon and just swap it, but I'm unsure!) But the treadmill appears to work well (perfectly) when the belt is not loaded...

Alternatively has something gone wrong in the current limiting control circuit? It's just 2Rs/2Cs going to pin 4 of the MCU (along with the big 0.01R current sensing resistor) so there's not much to go wrong surely? (Annoyingly they are small SMT parts and I don't have the best soldering iron for dealing with SMT stuff - although I've worked with SMT before at previous jobs.)

Thanks for reading, sorry for the long post.

Hey bro.did you find the answer to this problem ? i face the same issue.

 

Hello, After a short circuit on IGBT, don't feel the step on the belt. / I strongly think this shortcut made a spike on the earth wire and partly damaged the controller. I also post on the Hungarian electronics site, and similar problems were reported thereafter the IGBT short circuit. / Every step on the belt will slower the motor. If I disconnect the speed sensor don't happens anything. I basically fixing an EU-type treadmill, with TWI between the 2 controllers. I don't know, this calibrates the impulse wide from the speed sensor or the increased motor current?

Hello.did you find any solution to this problem ?

 

Have set up MC2100 with PWM and got this result. Turning up the duty cycle starts the motor turning and then it stops. Turn up more restarts and goes to higher rpm and stops. and so on until soon it goes wide open. Not electronics wise, I assume there is some feedback in the circuit but I have no idea which components are involved to try and replace and see if it works properly. Advice where to start ??

 

Normally that is all that is needed, what is the source of the 20Hz? Is it stable?

 

Normally that is all that is needed, what is the source of the 20Hz? Is it stable?

Yes. Stable as far as I know .Ebay PWM's ZK-PP1K.I'll try another of the PWM's that I have to see if the one I'm using is defective.

 

There is a MC2100 everse-engineered schematic here if you do a search.

 

Normally that is all that is needed, what is the source of the 20Hz? Is it stable?

Tried two different PWM generators with the faulted MC2100 with the results of motor going full speed as I increased the duty cycle from just turning slowly to a 1% increase in duty cycle caused the motor to max out. Tried with another motor and another MC2100 with that PWM and got a normal / as expected gradual increase in speed with duty cycle increase. This board looks pristine . Some component is breaking down at a low threshold letting the output go full on. Any idea what I might replace to see if defective? Can't imagine it is a resistor or capacitor.

 

It could be the MC2100 SCR that is shorted, this is used to ramp up the DC slowly.

 

It could be the MC2100 SCR that is shorted, this is used to ramp up the DC slowly.

Would that be IRF250 ?I have a replacement for it. I have insulators on order . Is it ok to run briefly unattached to HS?
I was curious what part U1 and U2 (F817) Optoisolators played in the circuit. Looks like that is the first component the PWM goes to after the resistor.