MC2100 treadmill motor control circuit #3

Thread Starter

Pulteri

Joined Jan 6, 2022
1
Hi,
My MC2100LS-30 has a blown D1 diode and R46.
What should D1 be, what size 2W resistor should R46 be?
The attached picture shows D1 next to R46.
Thanx

MC2100LTS-30.jpg

Moderator edit: New thread created from this.
 

ckentj

Joined Nov 11, 2022
5
I apologize if I am not in the right place. MC2100 Controller in a RESET state. The error is shows on the console is UEr 1.01. Having been out of electronics (and into software development) for the past 20 years. I am in effect a newbie.
I am not sure how to proceed with this error code.
Any suggestions will be most welcome.
Thank you,
Kent
 

ckentj

Joined Nov 11, 2022
5
More complete info:
I apologize if I am not in the right place. I have a MC2100 Motor Drive Controller in a RESET state. Using the troubleshooting guide the error it shows on the console is UEr 1.01. It powers up the console looks good (This is a treadmill: Image 15.5S), when I press the start button the controller "bumps" the DC drive motor and that's it. The onboard LED is solid ON, the console shows the treadmill is moving and I am 'walking around track'.
Having been out of electronics (and into software development) for the past 20 years. I am in effect a newbie.
I am not sure how to proceed with this error code.
Any suggestions will be most welcome.
Thank you,
Kent
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,619
The best way for trouble shooting these models is to power up and test each independently, IOW, both console and the motor board each have a micro-processor, the motor board can easily be tested on the bench but needs a 20Hz PWM signal plugged into HD2 in order to vary the speed.
Strange if it shows the track is moving as this is usually a sensor on the belt?
 
I have a MC-2100 rev B which starts up (looks like it is trying to run at full speed) but only runs for a couple of seconds. I see no flashes of the LED it just a constant red. Doing the stop then starts does the same thing. As for what I have checked, no shorts on Q1, 2, 3 or 4. No obvious issues with the board. I have read a lot of the previous threads but none of them seem to address the symptoms I have. Any ideas that would leading me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,619
The DC should ramp up at the acceleration rate, detected by the output of Q1.
Opto U4 ?, SCR ? gate driver MIC4427 or equiv.?
If this runs without a command, also disconnect HD2 8 pin. plug.
 
I do not have a scope just a DMM which shows the voltage starting to go up before shutting down. The voltage gets up to about 40 before shutdown. What is it suppose to be at say minimum speed?
 

ckentj

Joined Nov 11, 2022
5
The best way for trouble shooting these models is to power up and test each independently, IOW, both console and the motor board each have a micro-processor, the motor board can easily be tested on the bench but needs a 20Hz PWM signal plugged into HD2 in order to vary the speed.
Strange if it shows the track is moving as this is usually a sensor on the belt?
To answer your question your question about the sensor, it is magnetic and a small magnet is located on the flywheel. I was able to verify the sensor is picking up the magnet movement.
The DC motor is good; by attaching a set of test leads to its DC inputs and spinning the motor I can read an outputs.
The controller looks to be an older model MC-2100SDI REV A.
It is strange the console display shows 'walking' progress if I press the Start button, I even disconnected the magnetic sensor input to the board.
I am tempted to order / replace the drivers on the large heat sink. The bridge rectifier is OK. Do you know where I may find a schematic for this controller? It looks like it is used in many applications.
 

ckentj

Joined Nov 11, 2022
5
Post #39 for the reverse-engineered schematic, keep in mind that there is at least 5 ver of the board so this is just a general guide.
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/...or-control-circuit.100678/page-2#post-1267375
Thank you it has been so long since I have looked a schematic I forgot how good it was to "read" one.
It looks like I need to order the drivers, the controller seems to be working in all other sections accept the DC output. I'll let you know if I am successful. It is worth the $7 of parts to try a repair.
 
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