Maytag dishwasher repaired

Thread Starter

panic mode

Joined Oct 10, 2011
Hello everyone,

Just wanted to post some details on successful repair of Maytag dishwasher.
This unit was purchased exactly 24months ago. According to my wife it completed wash but failed to drain the water.
So i drained it manually, removed trays, accessed filter and checked for debris. Found some pieces of wine glass, removed them and put everything together. It worked for another two weeks but then it stopped filling with water and draining. So she called appliance guy. He checked it out and said there is no fixing it, controller board is dead and must be replaced, the part would cost half of price for new dishwasher and there is no stock anywhere for next 3-4 months so may as well just buy a new one. So she called Maytag service line, tech arrived two days later and said exactly the same thing.

Normally i would follow their advice and just swap the damn thing but then ... why not take a look? I mean controller is just some board with pile of electronics (microcontroller, PCU and coupler of relays and triacs). And we purchased this one to replace one that also only had maybe three years of service. These things are not supposed to be disposable, they could and should be repaired.

So i opened it up. Water inlet solenoid checked out ok and worked when supplied with power. Drain pump showed continuity but resistance was too low. Both techs said it checks out but 3 Ohm? So i took it out, looked nice and clean. I disassembled it and found that windings looked darker in the middle. in series with it was a thing that looked like a thermal switch but it did not open when exposed to hot air from my reflow station. That meant one thing ... this motor is dead and need to be replaced or repaired. I found replacement on Amazon for $55CAD and it arrived next day. Good, i don't like things ending up in a landfill but was not too eager to rewind it even though the winding was easily accessible.

So while waiting for replacement drain pump i turned to controller. Using T15 bit i disassembled door and controller was right there.
Took few pictures for reference, unplugged all connectors and opened it up. Found two SMD things blown up: 7A SMD fuse (F601) and a resistor R565. that was it. i had some 7A fuses but they were too large to fit in. and i did not want to pay $0.35 for a fuse that comes with $25 shipping. so i will include some with my next order but for now i put thin piece of wire as a substitute. Tested with adjustable PSU and at 6A wire strand was starting to melt. Close enough for a temporary solution.

Put it all together, installed pump the next day. Btw it measured 33 Ohm.
Test drive proved that everything worked. Then when the time was for drain pump to kick in - no sparks. But there was a squirt of water. Drain hose was connected to kitchen sink drain but the clamp was loose. Not sure if the Maytag tech forgot it or left it like that intentionally for easier access next time. Good thing that bucket and towel were at hand, small splash was no big deal.

Here are some pictures of the whole exercise.

This is the drain pump after removal:



This is not the article number, correct number in this case was W10348269


Manual shows expected resistance, neither tech checked them. Replacing expensive and long lead control board without replacing the pump would simply get it fried again.


this is motor coil after white cover is removed. flash from camera did good job of making it look nicer than it is, darker center is hardly noticeable. I would have take another picture if noticed on time, before defective part was discarded.

White thing is a motor protection (after removing heatshrink). protector-datasheet.pdf

This is the control board W11168782 / W11168783 / W11225084


P4 connector is on the right and terminals used by drain pump are oxidized, another thing neither tech noticed because they never bothered to open the door and check it out. So i cleaned them up. Mating connector was ok (fortunately).

Then started looking for anything damaged, specially blown fused. F600 was ok (other side of the board but here is the blown fuse F601
patched F601 and R565. Not sure what the value of R565 was but it had to handle few amp so based on size it must have been fraction of an Ohm.
assuming 0.5W and 7A and P=I^2*R
or R=P/I^2 = 0.5W/49A^2=0.010 Ohm
if someone can access same board, let me know. For now, i patched it up with the same strand.

Possibly it is used as current sense (tiny trace on top of the right side of the resistor seem to be Kalvin connection)
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Thread Starter

panic mode

Joined Oct 10, 2011
missing picture for pump motor windings, with thermal cutout (3MP...). as mentioned, i have seen windings on some other products that were discolored much more and still worked. once i cut into the coil, it was of course much crispier than on the outside.

btw. i really like how easy is to disassemble it. this slides up, then the iron core slides out of coils, and coils also separate at the side with terminals (right side has thin weakened portion that flexes). this is a good news for anyone wanting to rewind it.

rotor is completely sealed off and to take it out just pull the propeller out (using screwdriver as a lever). to put it back, just press it back in. nice strong magnet inside but i let it go as it was difficult to remove. (magnets are always fun)

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Thread Starter

panic mode

Joined Oct 10, 2011
yup, i told her no more repairmen, i will take care of these things. it is a nice construction, all stainless steel, everything looks great and clean. i plan on making these things last.