Of course, I did the continuity test, yeah is beep, no is not beeping.

Anyway, every single DMM I've seen gives you the ohm value between the leads when the continuity tool is selected, besides the beeping. So resistance function and continuity function both gives you resistance values, I don't understand why you say they don't.

 

Experience.

 

Haha, explain yourself, cause I can clearly see the very same values of resistance in my yellow multimeter either in the resistance selector or continuity test selector.

 

Are you sure that the meter is set for resistance.....not continuity? Continuity doesn't give a resistance...just a yea or nae.

Continuity on all of my meters also show diode forward voltage drop in millivolts and will never stabilize at zero.

Haha, explain yourself, cause I can clearly see the very same values of resistance in my yellow multimeter either in the resistance selector or continuity test selector.

That's because you are seeing a millivolt reading not a ohms of resistance reading.

You could always read the manual and get familiar with what all it's really doing in each mode and not just keep guessing at it and assuming it's defective every time it does something you don't understand.

https://www.lemona.ee/LIUSE/NI/En/Pdf/MS8229.pdf

 

Get yourself 3-4 resistors. Measure and record the readings under continuity and resistance scales on both meters. You should see a difference.
Experience is when someone has done the same thing you are trying to do........THE WRONG WAY......many more times than you have.

 

OK BR549, I'll do that in the video too, so you can see how it gives the very same values (ohm) either in the continuity or resistance tool.

TCMTECH, I've already read the manual, it was the very first thing I did when unboxed the MD8229. I quote, page 33:

4.19: Testing continuity

4.19.5: If the resistance of the circuit is less than 40 ohm, it will beep.
4.19.6: Read the RESISTANCE in the LCD.

It's even in the manual. So far I've just said my multimeter is faulty because of the continuity test tool, so it's just one thing I said it's not working properly.

 

So far I've just said my multimeter is faulty because of the continuity test tool, so it's just one thing I said it's not working properly.

Well you had better not buy and use any higher quality multimeters then being by your standard of faulty all of them will be that way.

 

We can only go by what you tell us.......plus we judge your knowledge by the use of your terms.

And I would guess that your new meter is just fine........but I could be wrong. I don't have your meter in hand like you do.

The continuity test is for checking things......like a good ground when installing trailer lights. It's just a quick low resistance check. It only indicates low resistance.

But you should never try to measure the resistance on the continuity setting.

My new DMM measures the resistance of 0-400 ohms on my continuity setting. But only beeps from 0 to 50 ohms. Above 400 ohms...it indicate OL.....Over Load. That's on the continuity setting.

But I would never trust a resistance reading on the continuity function.

All meters are different when checking continuity. Now it can be quite possible.....the meters of the future will be different.

So you will determine if your new meter is broken. And please understand the difference between meters......when it comes to continuity.

Continuity is a confirmation of low resistance....that's all. The amount of low resistance is not important. If the resistance is important........use the ohms scale and measure it.




.

 

Get yourself 3-4 resistors. Measure and record the readings under continuity and resistance scales on both meters. You should see a difference.
Experience is when someone has done the same thing you are trying to do........THE WRONG WAY......many more times than you have.

Many more times than me, your experience, etc... after all those bullets shot to me (basically you were trying to to prove I'm just a beginner that don't know what I talk about) just to check in my manual that I was right when I said that continuity test shows the resistance, in both my multimeters and other 3-4 I've tried. I mean I already knew it, but now it's even in the manual. Try to be more polite next time, don't be that guy that uses his "experience" to own the truth about things.

Well you had better not buy and use any higher quality multimeters then being by your standard of faulty all of them will be that way.

We can only go by what you tell us.......plus we judge your knowledge by the use of your terms.

And I would guess that your new meter is just fine........but I could be wrong. I don't have your meter in hand like you do.

The continuity test is for checking things......like a good ground when installing trailer lights. It's just a quick low resistance check. It only indicates low resistance.

But you should never try to measure the resistance on the continuity setting.

My new DMM measures the resistance of 0-400 ohms on my continuity setting. But only beeps from 0 to 50 ohms. Above 400 ohms...it indicate OL.....Over Load. That's on the continuity setting.

But I would never trust a resistance reading on the continuity function.

All meters are different when checking continuity. Now it can be quite possible.....the meters of the future will be different.

So you will determine if your new meter is broken. And please understand the difference between meters......when it comes to continuity.

Continuity is a confirmation of low resistance....that's all. The amount of low resistance is not important. If the resistance is important........use the ohms scale and measure it.
.

Instead of changing the topic explaining what is continuity testing, you should simply say "I'm sorry, I thought continuity did not show resistance. It clearly does". I've never said I use continuity to check resistance (as that seemed the reason why you started to explain continuity), if I wanna check resistance of course I select the resistance option, although I don't know if there's any precision difference between the resistance meter if continuity or resistance are selected.

And no, it's now what I tell you, it's in the manual too, so if you don't believe me, I hope you believe the manual.

Others have helped and explained things politely without telling me that they are experts and their experience is what rules here.

 

All of this over a $50 DMM?!

@rambomhtri Granting the integrity of your described test procedure, the instrument clearly suffers from an internal intermittent owed to mechanical or electronic defect! Should the prospect of refund or replacement prove 'more trouble than it's worth' please do yourself a favor! To wit: merely 'cut your losses' (such that they are) and purchase another instrument but this time from a reputable vendor! Please get a grip! We're talking pennies and nickles here!

As an aside, perhaps you'd care to explain your rationale back of seeking advice only to gainsay and/or ignore same?

Sincerely -- good luck with the instrument!
HP

 

"I'm sorry, I thought continuity did not show resistance. It clearly does".

I does not show resistance. It show the voltage drop across a resistance. There is a difference between the two even if they just happen to match in one situation.

 

I've been and I'm going to be nice to everyone here. I'm seeking advice about why my MS8229 behaves like that.

BR said, I still don't know why cause it was not discussed here, that continuity test do not show resistance values. Anyways, I said that both my DMM show resistance in continuity test, it's a fact I know and also it makes a lot of sense, there's nothing better when checking continuity that knowing, besides the beep, the ohms between the leads. He said no, that was mV reading. Why? Cuz experience. Well that's rude to start with, but I asked him politely to explain himself since I clearly saw ohms in both LCD's. And then the manual of my DMM proves I'm right.

TCM, the manual says it shows resistance. Voltage drop is measured in V, the multimeter shows ohm symbol. I don't know what you mean by "it's not resistance". The ohm meter would neither be a ohm meter since it's only dividing voltage by current, hence it only measures "voltage drop", if that's what you're trying to say.

I have a 331 ohm resistance, all my 3 DMM show 331 in both functions continuity and resistance.

Anyways, I don't want to talk about this, this post I made was to solve my MS8229 problem, it's BR the one that introduced this topic. Just wait for the video, I'm just about done.

 

TCM, the manual says it shows resistance. Voltage drop is measured in V, the multimeter shows ohm symbol. I don't know what you mean by "it's not resistance". The ohm meter would neither be a ohm meter since it's only dividing voltage by current, hence it only measures "voltage drop", if that's what you're trying to say..

From what I am seeing in the manual that position on the dial has four different functions it can do depending on what mode is selected and only one of them is an ohm function. The others do do different things.

As I stated before I own a Mastech plus a number of other mid and higher quality meters and they all do exactly what your video shows when tested the same way and I know for a fact they do not have problems. It's just how their design works. In continuity mode they are sensitive enough pick up the slightest weak connection variances between the lead ends as they slide across each other. In electrical terms it's basic contact bounce effects.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/digital/chpt-4/contact-bounce/

Its up to you if you want send the meter back the seller but the thing is if you get another one I have very strong suspicion it will act just like this one does.

 

@rambomhtri

The 'continuity-mode' display function of the DMM under discussion is irrelevant! The relevant points would seem to be as follows:

-As per your assertion the instrument responds erratically despite firm apposition of the test prods.
-As per your assertion presentation of said malfunction is unresolved via substitution of test leads.
Ergo the fault/defect is internal to the instrument! - Did I miss something?

For all that you refuse to return, exchange or merely purchase another instrument! Be advised that such does not foster confidence in your sincerity!

I've been and I'm going to be nice to everyone here.

And I would say you have been all of discourteous, disingenuous, ungracious and obdurate for obduration's sake!

Inasmuch as you credit only advice supportive of your preconceptions, you would seem to be wasting everyone's time including your own -- But then maybe that's the point?

Jadedly
HP

 

See ~8 minutes in. The guy addresses the continuity function and its scratchy beeper operation.

Then totally fails to understand that's the degree of sensitivity you want a good meter to pick up on when doing such a test.

 

Inasmuch as you credit only advice supportive of your preconceptions, you would seem to be wasting everyone's time including your own -- But then maybe that's the point?

There does seem to be a lot of that going around online lately.

 

@rambomhtri

By way of offering a 'positive' reply I recommend that you please...

1) Vigorously scrub each test prod with a pencil eraser taking care to remove any resultant dust/debris.

2) Observe instrument operation while holding the prods in tight apposition (e.g. pinched firmly between thumb and forefinger).

Be advised that continued malfunction following step #2 (above) implicates the instrument...

Best regards and, again, good luck!
HP

 

@rambomhtri

By way of offering a 'positive' reply I recommend that you please...

1) Vigorously scrub each test prod with a pencil eraser taking care to remove any resultant dust/debris.

2) Observe instrument operation while holding the prods in tight apposition (e.g. pinched firmly between thumb and forefinger).

Be advised that continued malfunction following step #2 (above) implicates the instrument...

Best regards and, again, good luck!
HP

I would be inclined to make a solid jumper right between the two inputs on the meter and see what it does from there when nothing is being touched.

I Just did the test with my MS8265 using a piece of 14 ga multistrand wire folded back on itself firmly inserted into the two lead sockets and it worked perfectly. Even the lead socket back lights went out.

If he does that and it still does the scratchy beep without anything touching it then the meter has a problem. However if it works fine and reads a low forward voltage drop (mine was ~ 8 - 10 mv) there's either lead problem or an operator's expectations problem.

 

I Just did the test with my MS8265 using a piece of 14 ga multistrand wire folded back on itself firmly inserted into the two lead sockets and it worked perfectly. Even the lead socket back lights went out.

--Emphasis added--

Good to know! -- I was uncertain as to the 'lead detection' scheme - hence my rather pedestrian approach

Very best regards
HP

 

--Emphasis added--

Good to know! -- I was uncertain as to the 'lead detection' scheme - hence my rather pedestrian approach

Very best regards
HP

I had to play around with my meters to see exactly how they each worked and read on these sort of tests the OP was doing.

Every one of the higher quality ones make the same scratchy beeper effect as the leads are rubbed plus did the same as the jumper wires were first being pushed directly to the sockets as well. However when held still they beeped continuously without issue.

The cheap ones I have that were working all have a short delay, ~.1 -.3 seconds, from when any connection is made to just after its broken that filters out that scratchy connection 'contact bounce effect' which to me say they are less than ideal for doing any serious or detailed continuity testing beyond either sort of working and better or not at all kind of like using a neon lamp voltage detector. Either there's enough to make it light up or it's not. No real definition of any actual voltage present.