WOW thank you all for your input. i learned a lot.. like i forgot the resistors are TECHNICALLY in series..
I did say im very new to AC circuits. infact this will be my first...

In the fact OF COURSE i want a load, i wanted to say "i suppose i need a load on my capacitor before i can start prodding around with my multimeter right?"

OK so the big thing is i want to make a bug zapper without a transformer. ive seen it done before, and i just dont have the space to step it down via transformer then using transister and transformer to step it up to about 1400V and then use volt multiplyer caps to get 6000V...

i needed to know if i can use this kind of input circuit from mains to safely run it (knowing full well mains AINT SAFE) and so in potential used to power other lower volt stuff like 24volt high current motors....

i WAS wondering about a zener. i was thinking of adding a few in parallel to slowly step down like 100v then 50 then 24. or something like that, i didn't think one can just add a single zener. My highest zener is 24v..

For a bug zapper a wall adaptor and transistor with transformer will do as i've done few times before.just never made it zap(lol) I just wanted to learn AC circuits also. and unfortunately all i have is MAINS and i want it safe(as possible) and need to learn. That is why i asked it here.

1) DOES C3 HAVE to be a polarized capacitor or can i add a 233je 2000v plate capacitor as C3?
2) Might a voltage divider after C3 work for lower voltages? i need to add lights.
View attachment 334078

this is my idea. with a potentiometer volt divider. any thoughts?
please i want to learn AC.

anyone?

 

I don't understand your circuit.
If 6kv is the goal connect more direct to the power line.
The first 4uF cap sets the current limit. I should have had a resistor in line.

 

I once lost a second or so from my life by inadvertently getting a 400V zap between both hands (i.e across the heart) from a 470uF cap. In that second I was thrown across the room and woke up to find myself on the floor.

Took 120VAC 400 cycle from wrist to wrist. Fortunately I wasn't able grab hold of anything, but it did set me down on my butt. 400 cycle is common in commercial aircraft.

But I DO remember the experience. Can still see the instrument panel I was working on. Holding one side of the panel my hand near a screw terminal on the other side, my wrist touched it. Worse than a Rottweiler grabbing hold and shaking my arm for the briefest moment. Fortunately muscle contraction pulled me away from the terminal. But boy was I dizzy for a few minutes.

 

Use something like this if you want to make a fly zaper


Forget about something plugged in the wall

Don't do this [QUOTE If 6kv is the goal connect more direct to the power line. ][/QUOTE]
voltage doublers off main voltage good way for you to get hurt 6000 volts can jump 6 inches in air and kill you dead.

 

I once lost a second or so from my life by inadvertently getting a 400V zap between both hands.....

I got a zap from hand to shoulder (reaching into machine) and my other hand threw my very best multimeter right across the room into a block wall. Snapped the probes in a blink.

 

Use something like this if you want to make a fly zaper
View attachment 334101

Forget about something plugged in the wall

Don't do this [QUOTE If 6kv is the goal connect more direct to the power line. ]

voltage doublers off main voltage good way for you to get hurt 6000 volts can jump 6 inches in air and kill you dead.
[/QUOTE]
Thank you for the help. this is the circuit i've built many times. i know this is safest. i just don't have transistors that like my wall adapter. i wanted to learn the AC side of this. I will start a new post oh and i learned arc normally are about 3000volts to jump 1mm, 1mm is 1/25th of an inch so 1inch is 2.54cm. making the biggest shock from a door knob at about 3mm aroud 10000volts...So for arc to travel 6inches it will have to be (25mm*6)*3000=(152mm)*3000=456000v....
As much as i'd wanna see those arcs, i don't wanna feel them...micro lightning lol

 

I don't understand your circuit.
If 6kv is the goal connect more direct to the power line.
The first 4uF cap sets the current limit. I should have had a resistor in line.
View attachment 334095

thank u for the help. the rest of the circuit that you blanked was just to run the lights, all bug zappers have purple lights to attract the bugs, so i added them in. i just wanna learn the AC side. how do i limit AC current because my resistors keep blowing up, along with capacitors.

 

how do i limit AC current because my resistors keep blowing up, along with capacitors.

I did this a while back. 10LED in series at 120mA.
You can use 1, 2, 3 LED without change. 0.22uf for 12mA. There is a direct correlation for LED current and C1 size. Within reason the number of LED does not matter. There is no resistor for the LEDs because C1 limits the current not a resistor.

People on the net say you must the IN4007 (1000V). I have this in production many times and I use low voltage diodes. (50V)

 

with diodes, specially large volume products like 1N400x it is common that 1N4001 is just relabeled 1N4004 or 4007. but while that tend to work out for certain products like mentioned diodes, it is not something to be applied broadly. for example do not try such substitution for caps.

 

1N4001 is just relabeled 1N4004 or 4007

I can't remember exactly where but the 1N400x series has two different types of silicon. So, the bottom half has a different forward voltage drop.
My point is that in this circuit there is a small voltage across the diodes. Many people think "power line" must use 1N4007. Not ture.

 

There are circuits that multiply or divide.
Often we start with a wall wort power adapter and a 555 timer.
Forget about zapping flys and messing with mains.

If you can build a 555 timer you can replace AC source V1 with the 555 Timer
Here is an example of a voltage multiplier. you can use larger capacitors.
Then regulate the output with an LM317

 

Hey guys...
I'm new to AC circuirts, but found a piece where i need some help from. It's from here actually, a 555timer ldr light switch(not important, can't use it).
Diagram:
View attachment 334044
Questions:
1) Am i right in assuming that the DC current will be close to 1Amp, due to 220V/220Ω(R1&2)
2) Am i right in assuming than the DC output voltage is whatever volt rating C3 is or will it stay aproximately 220V from mains?(lil less due to diode drops)..

i need some help.
thanx

WRONG ON BOTH COUNTS!!
There will be no DC current because there is no closed circuit that I see. There needs to be a complete circuit path for current to flow, beyond charging the capacitor. AND certainly the output voltage, because there is no load, will rise to the PEAK voltage , about 1.414X the RMS or average voltage. That is for the no load condition. If there is a load then the voltage will be less.

 

I did this a while back. 10LED in series at 120mA.
You can use 1, 2, 3 LED without change. 0.22uf for 12mA. There is a direct correlation for LED current and C1 size. Within reason the number of LED does not matter. There is no resistor for the LEDs because C1 limits the current not a resistor.
View attachment 334163
People on the net say you must the IN4007 (1000V). I have this in production many times and I use low voltage diodes. (50V)

This is bloody cool. thank you for answering my questions in a single message. Thank you
now after the rectifier to bring down voltage one can use the normal volt divider, and/or zeners, and/or resistors right? as voltage after rectifier will still be 230~320v right?

 

There are circuits that multiply or divide.
Often we start with a wall wort power adapter and a 555 timer.
Forget about zapping flys and messing with mains.

If you can build a 555 timer you can replace AC source V1 with the 555 Timer
Here is an example of a voltage multiplier. you can use larger capacitors.
Then regulate the output with an LM317

View attachment 334189

Thank you awesomely. i take it the output that you measured there is not DC right?... as i have seen volt doublers with 555 , don't know if it's a dc doubled voltage though. but if it only outputs a doubled dc voltage then it has little use., if it has a doubled output voltage with a frequancy attached then it has lots of use.
soooooooo which is it?
dc doubled or none dc doubled?

 

Thank you awesomely. i take it the output that you measured there is not DC right?... as i have seen volt doublers with 555 , don't know if it's a dc doubled voltage though. but if it only outputs a doubled dc voltage then it has little use., if it has a doubled output voltage with a frequancy attached then it has lots of use.
soooooooo which is it?
dc doubled or none dc doubled?

Oh wait i answered myself. nevermind. thank you so much.

 

Oh wait i answered myself. nevermind.

I talk to my self too much. I find it is best to just not listen.
Some time I get angry that it seems no one is listening. This is when I say, "I hear you yes, yes".
Yesterday some fool on Facebook was using bad language so I reported him. Now I am banded for two weeks for language.

 

If you want to use a 555 oscillator circuit to provide the power, I suggest first verifying the required power for those LEDs versus the power delivery of the 555 circuit.

 

I talk to my self too much. I find it is best to just not listen.
Some time I get angry that it seems no one is listening. This is when I say, "I hear you yes, yes".
Yesterday some fool on Facebook was using bad language so I reported him. Now I am banded for two weeks for language.

thaaaaaats funny as hell... wow... so the user of language is still free. thats not fair.


oh you havent answered my question towards u yet.

 

If you want to use a 555 oscillator circuit to provide the power, I suggest first verifying the required power for those LEDs versus the power delivery of the 555 circuit.

i understand yes thank u.