NOW IT WORKS!
Hey!... I'm getting good at this...
Hey!... I'm getting good at this...
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Thank you so very much!. Last time I almost drove poor Sarge to drinking. This one seems simple. How do I adjust the flash rate? Again thank you!!Ok, here's a preliminary of the PCB, I made it as compact as possible... see if you can fit it in most of your models. You need to buy the connector for the battery, and use extension wire from the PCB to where you are planning to physically place the LED.
Parts list is (one of each):
I'll try to modify the circuit later on for it to flash two alternating LEDs, maybe then you could use two colors.
- resistor 470 ohms, 1/4 watt
- resistor 33 Kohms, 1/4 watt
- transistor BC547C, or 2N2222, or 2n3906
- electrolytic capacitor 100 µF at 16V (or at 10V, if you like)
- 555 IC
- 1N914 diode
- LED
Let me know if there's anything else you need.
All you have to do is change the values of the capacitor and/or the 33k resistor. In fact changing the resistor is more practical. The larger the value, the longer the flash rate.Thank you so very much!. Last time I almost drove poor Sarge to drinking. This one seems simple. How do I adjust the flash rate? Again thank you!!
Oh yes and also one that flashes and the other that does not.And btw, let me know if you'd also like to have the layout for the double flasher's PCB
That's a timed relay board. If you intend to use it for your miniatures then it'll eat through the battery too quickly. It'll also make annoying clicking sounds.WOuld this work?
You are absolutely right in all counts.. I assumed that the OP would first test the circuit before etching... and my biggest omission was indeed the bypass cap. What's the recommended value for a 555? Would 10uF suffice?Wait a sec - I think you ought to actually breadboard up that circuit before you go to the expense of having boards made.
For one thing, I can guarantee that it won't work from a 3v supply as you specified. The simulation has it powered from a 9v source. However, 9v batteries are VERY expensive for their power output, particularly nowadays - and that isn't an especially efficient circuit.
It looks like you're using the NE555 model that LTSpice comes with. Beware; that is an "idealized" 555 model, which you can't actually buy. The closest you might get to it is a CMOS 555, but the CMOS version won't source as much current (10mA) as the BJT (transistorized) version will (200mA), but the transistorized version won't get within about 1.3v of Vcc with even a light load on the output (pin 3) due to the output being a Darlington voltage follower. Also the BJT version uses three 5k resistors in series internally to establish the 1/3 & 2/3 trip point voltages; at 9v that's 0.6mA current flow. The CMOS version uses three 100k resistors in series for 30uA current flow.
You don't show bypass capacitors across the 555 supply. Failure to include them can result in erratic operation.
Let me redraw that pcb for you with the required bypass cap and I'll get back to you. What range of flash length would you like to have?How do I determine what resistor to use to control flash length?
Hola torpedo,I think it is red on 3 of 2 green on 2 off 3
C1 cycle length
2 µF 0.30 sec
4.7 µF 0.60 sec
10 µF 1.25 sec
22 µF 3.00 sec
47 µF 6.50 sec
100 µF 14.00 sec
200 µF 17.75 sec
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