The other night our washing machine stopped working. It won't turn on at all even after pulling power and resetting. Power is getting to the control board (yel and blk bx's) and the red connector right next door. I also have continuity to one side of the black cylinder shown but not the other side from the power terminal. Continuity from one side of the black connector to the other is good so I am confused. Couple questions; What is this black cylinder? Am I looking at continuity right? And any suggestions on how to make sure it's the control board that's the issue. Model is LG WM2250c

Don't have a lot of experience (as you can probably see so any input would be appreciated.

Thanks - Dave

 

Check the white cylinder behind the black resistor (cylinder), it looks like a fuse.

 

Thanks. I think that's what it Is. Is there a way to replace that? There is a think coat of "gel" on the board. If I pry away the gel will I be able to easily replace the fuse?

 

Did you test it for continuity yet? You can use a razor or sharp blade to remove the coating, carefully.

 

I did test and no continuity for the fuse. I'll get to workng on removing the coating. Thanks!

 

I did test and no continuity for the fuse. I'll get to workng on removing the coating. Thanks!

Good luck but don't be surprised if the fuse blows again.

 

Hi
I have the same promblem. Did you change the fuse, Did it work?

 

Just scrape top of fuse and solder wire to each end then to another like fuse. Then if you don't find the problem on first try it's easier to replace

 

I did test and no continuity for the fuse. I'll get to workng on removing the coating. Thanks!

I did test and no continuity for the fuse. I'll get to workng on removing the coating. Thanks!

Did it work?? I have the same problem with mine even after replacing/changing out the new control board. I need my washer

Good luck but don't be surprised if the fuse blows again.

I’m hoping since replacing the board didnt work I could try changing out the fuse, but I have no experience in this type of repair. Do you have any suggestions or advice?? Seems like many owners are eventually running into this same issue. Not much info online besides the handful of other tips.

 

Did it work?? I have the same problem with mine even after replacing/changing out the new control board. I need my washer



I’m hoping since replacing the board didnt work I could try changing out the fuse, but I have no experience in this type of repair. Do you have any suggestions or advice?? Seems like many owners are eventually running into this same issue. Not much info online besides the handful of other tips.

Hello,
Just found this forum,and I am going through the same issue. There might be another thing to check on your washer.
My LG washer has what is called a noise filter. It is used to condition and surge protect for the incoming power. The power cord connects to it, and it feeds power to the washer. Mine had no power coming out .It also has a fuse just like the PCB. ( Mine looks like the one in this parts catalog: https://www.appliancepartspros.com/lg-filter-assembly-6201ec1006t-ap5251356.html ) My noise filter had a bad fuse, so I replaced the whole filter, and still nothing. Just checked the PCB, and it also has a bad fuse. Called a shop, and was told both of these can go out at the same time.

I was thinking of using a thermal circuit breaker instead of the fuse ( something like this : https://www.newark.com/schurter/ts-709-12/circuit-breaker-thermal-1p-250v/dp/88K1260 )

 

I just bypassed the burned out fuse on the PCB. I got a smell of something cooking. Machine did not power up, and the red LED on the board never lit up. It looks like it is more than a fuse on the PCB.

 

I just joined the LG PCB burned fuse club. I piggybacked a fuse holder on the burned out fuse. So far all I get is a positive smoke test and nothing else.

 

I'm also now in this club.
I have an LG WM2250c.
At first, the machine would power on and begin a cycle, then throw a "PF" code, and stop.
Now it won't power on at all. The outlet is tested and working.
I've checked for voltage and continuity everywhere I can. My fuses appear to be ok.
I tested and bypassed the noise filter.
The red light on the PCB is off.
Has anyone been able to revive their machine?

 

I have this same washer/dryer pair. They seam they where made to fail after about 5 years. I have not had trouble with the washer yet but had to repair the dryer. Its a big Number of people having issues with them. Originally I thought it was the control board but it ended up being some safety switch on the motor. Obviously my fix was quite different then what everyone here needs but Its a bit odd there is no lights powering up yet many said there was still current running to the control Board. I'm assuming people are saying they have the AC coming in from wall but has anyone checked to see if its getting stepped down in the control board to 12V DC and 3.3v/5v to run the ic's? I would think with nothing powering on at all the transformer or some regulator is bad.

 

I'm also now in this club.
I have an LG WM2250c.
At first, the machine would power on and begin a cycle, then throw a "PF" code, and stop.
Now it won't power on at all. The outlet is tested and working.
I've checked for voltage and continuity everywhere I can. My fuses appear to be ok.
I tested and bypassed the noise filter.
The red light on the PCB is off.
Has anyone been able to revive their machine?

Yes I revived the machine, had to buy a new board. I bypassed the burn fuse and only got a strong hot wire insulation smell. I read out every component which attaches to the board, and the all had proper resistance. The new board did the trick, but only pulling off and putting the connector to the water temp sensor. Running like a champ now.

 

There are a lot of issues with this control board. First thing is to find the schematic on the machine and see if all the inputs are there and proper voltages to the board. There have been pump motor issues but most of the time it is on the board. I have done a couple where relays were causing issues and there are some other problems on the boafd as well. If you are not familiar with electronics, best buy another board. If you are familiar, you could replace fuse with DBT and find your issue. Dont play with mains voltage if you are not familiar with it. Burnt fuse will be the least of your worries

 

New member to the not working LG washer control board club. Went on April 22. Got a WM3885. LG parts was sold out of replacements - had to get mine from Sears. Only 7 years old. Saved the old board and was considering trying to find a place to fix the board. My question is if it would be worth it? New board is $240. Best guess is its either the main chip or transformer, but my skills are very limited.

Also the EU is getting fed up with "disposable appliances" and may force makers to provide parts at cost. Most individuals opt to get new washer rather than try to fix things.

Anyway, thanks to everyone here....This post was the most help in getting the washer fixed and making the wife happy.

 

Really, these are not the things to try to fix if you have no electronics experience. They are potentially lethal!
Most are directly connected to the mains power. BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!!
If the fuse is blowing, do not put a bigger one in there. A blowing fuse is protecting the circuit because there is something wrong. A bigger fuse will just make it "wronger"
And do not poke around the board with it connected to the power.
These things are a good way to kill yourself if you are not careful.

 

I bought LG fully automated washing machine few months ago. It's dryer not working properly. It not spinning well the clothes. Now what can i do.
Can i replace it or giving in repair service?

 

@premend
When you say "it not spinning well the clothes" Do you mean the drum is not turning, or that its turning but they are not drying well?
If its not turning well then maybe the belt is loose on the drum and its slipping, that or some issue's with the motor.

If its not drying well (most common on these)
Then first check continuity on the heating element and the 3 sensors attached. If that is all good then its most likely either the relay on control board or a safety switch on that is attached to motor. They do not sell this switch separate and most people just buy another motor. I was able to repair mine luckily so its worth the effort of looking into it.