OK, from the looks of the datasheet, your resistor should have 5-band color code. Post That.

The part number suggests a 100 ohm resistor. The "R" is the decimal point.

I think you have 3 significant figures and a tolerence.


brn blk blk blk = 100 with no zeros.
brn blk blk blk brn = 1% (the last brown by itself)

Measure it with an ohmmeter?

 

OK, from the looks of the datasheet, your resistor should have 5-band color code. Post That.

The part number suggests a 100 ohm resistor. The "R" is the decimal point.

I think you have 3 significant figures and a tolerence.


brn blk blk blk = 100 with no zeros.
brn blk blk blk brn = 1% (the last brown by itself)

Measure it with an ohmmeter?

I hope to get it straightened out before they ship it. I definitely will check it with a meter before I use them, whatever I end up getting.

 

OK, they got it cancelled and I ordered 10 of these http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SPR2CT521R100J

I assumed tolerance and temp coefficient weren't relevant, just made sure, axial, 10 ohm, 2 watt.

Thanks for all the help everyone.
Brad

 

Too bad I didn't say anything earlier. For this application, I would probably have used Metal Oxide resistors.
Metal Oxide resistors tend to open entirely when they are stressed. Metal film tends to "puddle". Carbon composition tends to increase in value. Metal oxide and some wire wound resistors are known as fuseable resistors because they generally fully open when they fail.

Carbon film isn't a bad choice.

For a load resistor in a trunk light circuit, I used a chassis mount resistor for an additional LED load. I didn't want anything fragile and the BCM limits the amount off time the trunk light can stay on. I did not bolt it to the car frame.

 

Too bad I didn't say anything earlier. For this application, I would probably have used Metal Oxide resistors.
Metal Oxide resistors tend to open entirely when they are stressed. Metal film tends to "puddle". Carbon composition tends to increase in value. Metal oxide and some wire wound resistors are known as fuseable resistors because they generally fully open when they fail.

Carbon film isn't a bad choice.

For a load resistor in a trunk light circuit, I used a chassis mount resistor for an additional LED load. I didn't want anything fragile and the BCM limits the amount off time the trunk light can stay on. I did not bolt it to the car frame.

I didn't realize one was any different than the other. What do you mean by "puddle"?

 

I was surprised I even managed to find this forum and my thread again. I just wanted to say thank you for your help (and patience), nearly 5 years ago now. The lights have been working flawlessly ever since.

 

You can also try connecting two of those LED lights in series across one of those supplies, and then carefully measure the actual voltage across each light.
And those resistors in the link are 100 ohms, there is no mention of ten ohms anyplace.

 

I hope to get it straightened out before they ship it. I definitely will check it with a meter before I use them, whatever I end up getting.

The part number does not "suggest", rather it states very clearly that the parts are 100 ohms.
With a REPUTABLE supplier like Mouser, the descriptions are correct and rather clear. No guessing. And the resistors are also 1% TOLERANCE, which makes them a lot more expensive.

 

This thread has run its course. I'm glad to read that @brad1138 has solved his problem, and even more glad he returned to let us know how things worked out.