Agreed, you need the real deal including tech notes that sometimes get issued after the publication of the manual.

One source I saw said the Audi shop manual is 10Gb (!!). This might be the complete package a genuine Audi dealer would use and contains data for the entire product line. It would explain how there is a company that can produce a customer manual for you based on your VIN. They probably have the 10Gb file and extract a custom version for you.

 

Where do you live?

Maldives
I bought the 3 book set for my 2005 Ford Explorer for $50 American.
Absolutely necessary! And it still doesn't tell all.
The MFG made sure you have to pay a Dealership to register new parts with the anti-theft module.
There is a chance this Audi will have to be shipped to a continent to get a Dealership to program in the replacement modules.

My dome light will not turn off. It will only cost $1000 for the whole instrument cluster and a Dealership to register it with the anti-theft module. Guess who is driving around without a dome light?

 

Since I drive GM, I can't comment on other makes, but GM usually has it's manuals in different volumes. Like suspension and driveline, electrical and fuel, body panels, etc. So you might look and see if they make one just for electrical.

 

#12. If you can get your hands on a Ford Scan tool, (can buy online), you can program the unit yourself. If you go to the Ford website you can buy time on their portal to download the necessary software and do it yourself.
http://my.cardone.com/English/Club/flash2/docs/Section C Ford.pdf
I think that is the website, I haven't looked into it fully but you do not always have to go back to the dealer to program your vehicle.
It is just my opinion but everyone has to realise that what he needs to do with the Audi isn't for the faint at heart and it isn't an easy task. He needs to set the car back to the way it was, get everybody out of the way and just attack the problem at hand. #1 is getting the unit running and that may take some programming or an ECM or BCM and until he does that, the door controller doesn't mean a hill of beans. He needs to be able to talk to it first. Maybe the door latch is preventing it from starting but it will not prevent it from talking to a scan tool.

 

I don't want to say that you shouldn't buy the online 20 and 10 dollar systems. What I can tell you is when I tried to use one of them services. It was nice however there was some free sights that offered the same type of diagrams.

So I tried to look at a A3 for 2012 and the door locks don't even show up even though the service says there is one doc. When I click on list it isn't there. Again I can't find a A1 at all in all the data bases I have saved in my bookmarks or thing that I have searched for. So I can't say for sure if the A3 is the same as an A1. However I did get the 2013 to show the Doorlock diagram. This is for the 2013 Audi A3. Just to give you an idea of the so called free and Fee based diagrams online http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=1022716 That is the PDF of the first page of 4 they have under the cars Door Lock section. Here is the page with the 4 PDF list. http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/...el=2806&Engine=2.0&WdSystem=9&WdSubsystem=917 IF you click the icon for wiring diagrams it should take you to the list for the car if not just pick the info in the drop down menu starting with year, make model and then what wiring your looking for etc. This is a Free site has many many different makes and modles again only thing I can find for door locks is the 2013 year of the A3 that I think maybe same or kind of like the A1 from what I see in searches for the lock module.

Like if you look at the Impala 2000-2005 they are same as the Monte Carlo of them years for wiring. However I can tell you that when I used the free service and even a paid service system free for my Impalas and paid for me 2012 Suburban before I was able to find the Service manual online It was lacking a lot of info that after I bought the manuals for my cars became all to clear. I paid 750 for my Suburban service manuals However today they can be found for around 1/2 that cost.

 

Ford Scan tool

I have an OBD Link which outputs to a USB connector and a computer. Will that do?

 

You need the Ford software to go with it. I believe you can download it from their website for a fee but your communication device has to be able to communicate with the vehicle and the PC. Programming these is a different game if you have never done it.

 

your communication device has to be able to communicate with the vehicle and the PC.

That's what an OBD link does. It plugs into the datalink under the dashboard and connects to a computer USB port. I have already connected with Forscan and OBDwiz. Both are free and rather limited. No options to modify anything except to delete trouble codes, but lots of interrogation displays which are much easier to work with than a 2 line scan tool readout.

You need the Ford software to go with it.

Why did you send me to cardone?

I think that is the website,

It says, "cardone", not, "Ford". Leaving it up to me to find out if cardone has the right software?

 

It is taking a but of time to get the old BCM installed.
The owner is admitted in the hospital and the care taker doesn't get much time to come to open the garage, so we can install the BCM and do the checking.

I am leaving to an island tomorrow night to install a Deep Sea controller to replace an old one on a genset.

I may take a week. So bear patience.
Thank you all.

 

You won't find a manual for this car and you will need this tool: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/ to fully diagnose faults and install new modules.

You will receive much more helpful replies if you post your questions on some of the Audi forums.

 

Sorry #12. I had several windows open and invariably copied the wrong one. I will see if I can find it again and send it off to you. You will need a Ford VCM II or similar for programming. Scan tools are usually just generic readers unless you spend cash and get bi directional scan tools with programming capabilities.

 

Scan tools are usually just generic readers unless you spend cash and get bi directional scan tools with programming capabilities.

That's what an OBD link does.

 

FWIW...

First...I doubt you'll get much help from the OBDII port for this type of issue. A scan tool that can check the health and function of the control modules and dependent electronic systems is what is needed.

That said...I've done this ECM / BCM dance with my Chrysler. It's a difficult routine. I was having a problem where the alarm was locking the car and would not de-activate. The alarm would prevent the car from starting at very inopportune times. Eventually I was able to find a BCM that worked from a junk yard by matching the BCM group and family numbers and matching accessories mine had with a vehicle of the same year make and model and same accessories from a bone yard. Like has been said, you cannot just grab ANY BCM from the same year make and model. Also, the BCM generally holds the mileage so that will reflect the replacement BCM (in Chryslers, anyway)

I had another issue with the PowerDistributionCenter (relays and fusible links) . The ground to the fuel pump went bad causing a very high resistance and kept burning out fuel pumps. Very elusive problem but I found it by testing the resistance of each ground to every relay one by one. The fuel pump ground was 24ohms vs around 1 for all the other grounds.

A good place to start might be the PDC. Checking the main positive and ground connection, then each relay terminal for proper ground and resistance. Also, the battery can affect the BCM and PDC. Make certain the battery is healthy and fully charged.

One of the problems you will face is that one bad component in the entire BCM hierarchy can affect others. One short circuit can affect many other components. Scan tools run complex checks on not just the computer control boxes...but can check resistance values along circuit paths, grounds and a lot more.

I can tell you this....without having a dealer plug it into their diagnostic computers...you can be in for a wild ride trying to find the issue.
But considering what the owner of this Audi has paid to shysters.....the dealer would probably have been a bargain!
But...be prepared...because even the dealership can fail to properly diagnose the problem. Cars have become excessively complex...rolling computers. I avoid new cars for just this reason. Dealership slavery.

Good luck

 

I had another issue with the PowerDistributionCenter (relays and fusible links) . The ground to the fuel pump went bad causing a very high resistance and kept burning out fuel pumps. Very elusive problem but I found it by testing the resistance of each ground to every relay one by one. The fuel pump ground was 24ohms vs around 1 for all the other grounds.

I agree about grounds. Replaced what I thought was a bad fuel pump. When the new pump didn't work after installing it, I then started tracing wiring faults. Ended up the original pump wasn't bad, it was a bad ground.