Have you tried LM386 single ended output into 4Ω or 8Ω speaker with 12V supply?

 

Have you tried LM386 single ended output into 4Ω or 8Ω speaker with 12V supply?

Why? The datasheet shows an output of only 0.66W when almost clipping into 8 ohms (and be fairly hot) and an output of only 0.38W into 4 ohms (will be extremely hot). He wants 5W output with low heating (it is enclosed).
EDIT: Is this the thread where liquid cooling will be used?

 

Why? The datasheet shows an output of only 0.66W when almost clipping into 8 ohms (and be fairly hot) and an output of only 0.38W into 4 ohms (will be extremely hot). He wants 5W output with low heating (it is enclosed).
EDIT: Is this the thread where liquid cooling will be used?

I think TS doesn't know how loud is 5W. He wants to play music around the house.

 

Have you tried LM386 single ended output into 4Ω or 8Ω speaker with 12V supply?

I certainly have. Got 18 more of them. However I kinda have a new purpose for them. I was going to make a P.A. system from my house to my shop and to my porches using them. Or possibly in RC circuits. However at most 1 watt single and it distorts so easily. I've done 3 different circuits with them and while not horrible they just aren't loud enough for any from of portable sound system at work. I do construction so really at least 5-10watts. Any more or less is pointless because when running equipment I can't hear it anyways and to little I couldn't hear when it was silent.

Why? The datasheet shows an output of only 0.66W when almost clipping into 8 ohms (and be fairly hot) and an output of only 0.38W into 4 ohms (will be extremely hot). He wants 5W output with low heating (it is enclosed).
EDIT: Is this the thread where liquid cooling will be used?

I did plan on that yes. I have a very efficency pump and with a mineral oil coolant. Doesn't affect electronics at all.

Why? The datasheet shows an output of only 0.66W when almost clipping into 8 ohms (and be fairly hot) and an output of only 0.38W into 4 ohms (will be extremely hot). He wants 5W output with low heating (it is enclosed).
EDIT: Is this the thread where liquid cooling will be used?

Yes it is. Efficency pump with mineral oil

I think TS doesn't know how loud is 5W. He wants to play music around the house.

I have a purchased 3w speaker that plugs into my phone and it's fairly loud. I can hear it somewhat clearly driving 70 with the windows down so I'm thinking 5-10 would be enough for me. Doesn't need to shatter eardrums, just loud enough I don't have to drag it by my side if I go into another room.

 

Music that is not badly compressed has a dynamic range of 10 times or 20 times the power. Then if the peaks are clipping at 5W, the average level is only 0.5W or 0.25W. That is why your 100W stereo is not deafening when it is barely clipping.

 

Music that is not badly compressed has a dynamic range of 10 times or 20 times the power. Then if the peaks are clipping at 5W, the average level is only 0.5W or 0.25W. That is why your 100W stereo is not deafening when it is barely clipping.

Would you consider something portable at 10-20watts output reasonable? I wouldn't mind a one speaker output

 

I do construction so really at least 5-10watts.

Would you consider something portable at 10-20watts output reasonable?

Geez we started out with 3 watts then 5 to 10 and now 10 to 20..
Yes a portable system could be built with a 10 to 20 watt amp. Most of the space will be to hold the batteries.
SG

 

Hello,

See what others made with the use of a car radio:
Car radio boom box

Bertus

 

Here is a portable 12V battery powered amp I built, 300W bridged output to 12" speaker.

 

Here is a portable 12V battery powered amp I built, 300W bridged output to 12" speaker.

Care to elaborate on the circuit?
SG

 

Geez we started out with 3 watts then 5 to 10 and now 10 to 20..
Yes a portable system could be built with a 10 to 20 watt amp. Most of the space will be to hold the batteries.
SG

I know I'm flip flopping. 3 to 5 watts is for me to have a circuit to study and toy with so I can learn. I assume they are simpler than the 10 to 20 I plan on using. And you're correct most of the space is for batteries though I can easily place them with much room to spare.

Here is a portable 12V battery powered amp I built, 300W bridged output to 12" speaker.

View attachment 157762

That's quite nice. That's sort of what I want. 12" might be a little excessive for me seeing as I don't have one. But overall that's the idea right there.

Care to elaborate on the circuit?
SG

I'd like to see that myself.

 

Here's the output graph using my circuit with any battery voltage from 12 to 45 volts.
SG

 

Geez we started out with 3 watts then 5 to 10 and now 10 to 20..
Yes a portable system could be built with a 10 to 20 watt amp. Most of the space will be to hold the batteries.
SG

Many audio power ratings are lies. "Peak" power is simply the real power number doubled. When an amplifier is turned up too high there is plenty of distortion and this distortion has lots of power that is added to the signal power.

Our hearing's sensitivity to loudness is logarithmic (why a volume control is a log pot), then 10 times the power sounds twice as loud.
Twice the power sounds only a little louder. I think 10W to 20W is needed for this project.

 

Here's the output graph using my circuit with any battery voltage from 12 to 45 volts.
SG
View attachment 157764

Well that helps me estimate what my output will be. Thanks. I'll probably chain 3 batteries at least then.

 

Alright my good friends I have given up on transistor based amps. I have tried and retried so many different circuits and none seem to work except a single transistor class a, that barely delivers. Is there any decent IC's that meet my 5 to 20(or more if it simply can) watt requirements powered from 12-24v battery power supply? I'll even buy new speakers if I must. I will say @Mr.Chips something that can power a sexy af 12" speaker. Preferably mono or bridged. 2 speakers if it's just better that way.

 

TDA7297. Figure 3 in the pdf.
http://www.radiotechnika.hu/images/TDA7297.pdf
SG

 

A TDA7396 can produce 15W with low distortion into a 4 ohm speaker when powered from a 13.2V lead acid battery or a little more power when powered from a smaller rechargeable 4 cells Lithium battery for models or tools. It is a very simple circuit.
It costs $4.77US at Digikey today. Its high cost includes diagnostics that you will not use. It is the only mono bridged car amplifier still made.

 

If you use the TDA7297 then you can have one of the stereo channels pointing over here and the other channel pointing over there. Mono would sound better.

 

That was my thought since his source is stereo, but I do like TDA7396.
EDIT: Just remembered I have four TDA7297 complete modules that were only about 10 bucks each. So much for building anything.
SG

 

Many "stereos" have the speakers so close together that it sounds like mono.
When one stereo speaker points here and the other speaker points there then people hear only half of what is playing.
Two speakers pointing in the same direction produce twice the power but sound only a little louder than one speaker.