- Joined Mar 2, 2015
Did he ever get to the point? His technique was terrible and his tip was too large.Drag soldering is a good option:
Drag soldering often uses a larger tip. You can find other examples of how-to videos explaining it. Maybe you prefer this one:Did he ever get to the point? His technique was terrible and his tip was too large.
A lot of videos are unnecessarily long because those so-called experts are just trying to monetize your time.
I've seen the technique used many times, but I never had to resort to using it because I have paste and a hot air tool.I was skeptical about drag soldering but for high pin count packages it's way easier and works well.
I probably should have vetted that video further, I only was watched the beginning and he had the right materials, and I counted on the Digilent imprimatur to vouch for it. Maybe they need to be more careful...I've seen the technique used many times, but I never had to resort to using it because I have paste and a hot air tool.
The second video was clearly by someone who knew what he was doing. The first guy seemed like he was making it up as he went. Another of the so-called experts who's quite clueless himself...
The tacky flux prevents bridges very well. I wouldn't do it the first time on an irreplaceable part, though.That is not very fine pitch and you can do it with a soldering iron with a fine tip.
I prefer not to do drag soldering. If you bridge adjacent pins it can be difficult to remove the bridge.
This is an excellent compromise for a neophyte with a high value one off part, even if an iron was used to individually solder the pins. I never though to do this, but it's clever.I usually flux and drag solder the fine pitch pins of a plated board first to create a series of slightly raised solder bumps, then I use an hot air gun to solder the chip to the board as the board bumps melt and bond flat to the fluxed chip leads.
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by Luke James