How to solder this IC on the PCB?

I'm a hobbyist like many of you.
so I have a letcon and I can enlarge the image (photo and zoom)

 

Rotated, cropped image:


Assuming the lead pitch matches the board, I'd go with solder paste and a hot air tool.

If you don't have them, apply flux to a row of pins and drag a blob of solder across all of the pins with a soldering iron. If you end up with shorts, reflow the solder to clear them.

 

You can solder it with soldering iron, first solder upper left pin (usually pin1) and then lower right pin (diagonally). But you need:
1. soldering iron tip 0.4mm (chisel form)
2. flux pen to coat PCB pads
3. presolder first pins (upper left and lower right ones) to better contact with PCB pad
4. steady hand

 

First, look carefully at the breakout-board and make sure you understand which pins you need to sit the IC on. After that, you can do this with:

1. Candle-warming Hot plate
2. Chip-Quick low-melt-point solder (syringe)
3. Toothpick
4. Solder Flux
5. Hot Hair Dryer

Steps:

1. Once you know what pins, use a toothpick and spread chipquick across the pins on the breakout-board. SPARINGLY. less is more. Just enough that it will bead and wick to a pin on the IC when it's hot enough.
2. Dab a fair amount of solder flux _gently_ so as not to disturb the solder. It can be a small puddle where the IC will sit.
3. Sit the chip on the appropriate pins, and press very slightly to seat it into the paste.
4. Put it on the candle warmer, turn the candle warmer on and walk away. Leave it for an hour, so it heats everything up.
5. Take a hair-dryer, hold it several feet away from the chip above (too much air pressure could blow the IC away, if too soon). Point directly straight down, so the air pressure is straight down, turn it on, let it get hot, and very slowly move it towards the hotplate until you see the solder bead up, wick around the pins, and then lift the hair dryer back straight up and turn it off.
6. turn the hotplate off and walk away. let it sit until cool.
7. check using a magnifying glass for any bridges, but if done properly, the chipquick and the flux will have worked together to pull towards the pads & pins, and you will have a nice, neat little soldering job.

This works. It's how I did it before getting into air-reflow/rework for single-ic to single break-out boards like you have.

Best of luck.
BM

 

Drag soldering is a good option:

 

Drag soldering is a good option:

Did he ever get to the point? His technique was terrible and his tip was too large.

A lot of videos are unnecessarily long because those so-called experts are just trying to monetize your time.

EDIT: This video is much better and they got to the point in about a minute.
Professional Hand Soldering Training - SMT, The Art of Drag Soldering and Fine-Pitch QFP - Bing video

It showed how to clear a short at around 1:40.

 

Did he ever get to the point? His technique was terrible and his tip was too large.

A lot of videos are unnecessarily long because those so-called experts are just trying to monetize your time.

Drag soldering often uses a larger tip. You can find other examples of how-to videos explaining it. Maybe you prefer this one:

 

Drag soldering often uses a larger tip. You can find other examples of how-to videos explaining it. Maybe you prefer this one:

That one was easy to watch. The first guy was so awkward; right from the start when he was trying to position the part on the pads.

 

That one was easy to watch. The first guy was so awkward; right from the start when he was trying to position the part on the pads.

I was skeptical about drag soldering but for high pin count packages it's way easier and works well.

 

I was skeptical about drag soldering but for high pin count packages it's way easier and works well.

I've seen the technique used many times, but I never had to resort to using it because I have paste and a hot air tool.

The second video was clearly by someone who knew what he was doing. The first guy seemed like he was making it up as he went. Another of the so-called experts who's quite clueless himself...

 

I've seen the technique used many times, but I never had to resort to using it because I have paste and a hot air tool.

The second video was clearly by someone who knew what he was doing. The first guy seemed like he was making it up as he went. Another of the so-called experts who's quite clueless himself...

I probably should have vetted that video further, I only was watched the beginning and he had the right materials, and I counted on the Digilent imprimatur to vouch for it. Maybe they need to be more careful...

 

That is not very fine pitch and you can do it with a soldering iron with a fine tip.
I prefer not to do drag soldering. If you bridge adjacent pins it can be difficult to remove the bridge.

 

That is not very fine pitch and you can do it with a soldering iron with a fine tip.
I prefer not to do drag soldering. If you bridge adjacent pins it can be difficult to remove the bridge.

The tacky flux prevents bridges very well. I wouldn't do it the first time on an irreplaceable part, though.

 

That is not very fine pitch and you can do it with a soldering iron with a fine tip.
I prefer not to do drag soldering. If you bridge adjacent pins it can be difficult to remove the bridge.

I use solder wick to clean up my drag soldering and it works perfectly.

Bob

 

I usually flux and drag solder the fine pitch pins of a plated board first to create a series of slightly raised solder bumps, then I use an hot air gun to solder the chip to the board as the board bumps melt and bond flat to the fluxed chip leads.

 

I usually flux and drag solder the fine pitch pins of a plated board first to create a series of slightly raised solder bumps, then I use an hot air gun to solder the chip to the board as the board bumps melt and bond flat to the fluxed chip leads.

View attachment 234882View attachment 234883

This is an excellent compromise for a neophyte with a high value one off part, even if an iron was used to individually solder the pins. I never though to do this, but it's clever.

 

An example of a IC bump rework job. Controller upgrade on a in-service PIC32MK board.


Old chip, MCF series

Hot air gun removal

Clean the traces with IPA


Solder bump the traces with a fine tip iron and lots of liquid flux


Flux the new chip lead and traces
Hot air solder in the new chip once alignment is good. The bumps makes this easier.

Reflash with new software for the MCM series chips