Hi - I'm a newbie to this forum, so forgive me if I don't get the etiquette quite right on this first post.
I searched the forum for related topics, but didn't quite find what I was looking for.
The venerable Bob Pease drew up this little circuit to drive a solenoid at reduced voltage after an initial "spike".
Paul Rako put together the OrCAD drawing and posted it along with the hand drawn sketch below.
If I'm understanding the concept, the idea is that at "switch on" the C1 capacitor has no voltage drop, hence the solenoid receives the initial "spike or hit" at full voltage of the source. Then after maybe 1/4-1/2 second, the capacitor is fully charged, current drops to zero, and the R2 resistor now divides the voltage and all current flows through the resistor. It seems that the transistor Q1, resistor R3 and control voltage V2 are simply usedt to"switch" the solenoid off and on.
I'm a very bare minimum kind of guy, so I just want to understand how to make this circuit as simple as possiblef for my application.
For my situation, I have a Clippard ET-2M-12 solenoid that opens and closes a valve (to control CO2 flow).
The solenoid has a nominal resistance of 220 ohms, so with a 12V source it draws about 0.055 amps, and at that voltage consumes 0.67 watts. In order to extend the life of the solenoid, Clippard recommends a "hit and hold" solenoiddriver - one that will supply the initial full voltage for minimum of 20-25ms and then drop down to 6V.
I have a 14V, .2 amp wall wart that I plan to use for this application. Also, I don't think I have need for the transistor portion of the circuit since I plan to use a simple mechanical timer that will energize the wall wart in the morning, and turn off at night.
In line with the Paul Rako article in Engineering Design (https://www.electronicdesign.com/te...0/whats-all-this-solenoid-driver-stuff-anyhow),
I have come up with the following:
R1, solenoid resistance 220 ohm, L1 not measured, but assume it's around 2000mH.
So if I want to reduce steady state voltage by half (and thus reduce current on the solenoid by 75%), I will use R2 of 220 ohms, C1 of 470uF,. Now since the circuit will not need the transistor, I wonder if I need the flyback diode D1 at all?
It seems that for my very simple CO2 operation, I would only need to use C1 and R2 in parallel and not require the transistor or diode at all. 14V 0.2 amp wart controlled by a clock mechanical timer would be the rest of the circuit. Does that sound right, or am I missing something important that's going to fry my mouse solenoid!?
Kind regards,
Gregg G.
h.
I searched the forum for related topics, but didn't quite find what I was looking for.
The venerable Bob Pease drew up this little circuit to drive a solenoid at reduced voltage after an initial "spike".
Paul Rako put together the OrCAD drawing and posted it along with the hand drawn sketch below.
If I'm understanding the concept, the idea is that at "switch on" the C1 capacitor has no voltage drop, hence the solenoid receives the initial "spike or hit" at full voltage of the source. Then after maybe 1/4-1/2 second, the capacitor is fully charged, current drops to zero, and the R2 resistor now divides the voltage and all current flows through the resistor. It seems that the transistor Q1, resistor R3 and control voltage V2 are simply usedt to"switch" the solenoid off and on.
I'm a very bare minimum kind of guy, so I just want to understand how to make this circuit as simple as possiblef for my application.
For my situation, I have a Clippard ET-2M-12 solenoid that opens and closes a valve (to control CO2 flow).
The solenoid has a nominal resistance of 220 ohms, so with a 12V source it draws about 0.055 amps, and at that voltage consumes 0.67 watts. In order to extend the life of the solenoid, Clippard recommends a "hit and hold" solenoiddriver - one that will supply the initial full voltage for minimum of 20-25ms and then drop down to 6V.
I have a 14V, .2 amp wall wart that I plan to use for this application. Also, I don't think I have need for the transistor portion of the circuit since I plan to use a simple mechanical timer that will energize the wall wart in the morning, and turn off at night.
In line with the Paul Rako article in Engineering Design (https://www.electronicdesign.com/te...0/whats-all-this-solenoid-driver-stuff-anyhow),
I have come up with the following:
R1, solenoid resistance 220 ohm, L1 not measured, but assume it's around 2000mH.
So if I want to reduce steady state voltage by half (and thus reduce current on the solenoid by 75%), I will use R2 of 220 ohms, C1 of 470uF,. Now since the circuit will not need the transistor, I wonder if I need the flyback diode D1 at all?
It seems that for my very simple CO2 operation, I would only need to use C1 and R2 in parallel and not require the transistor or diode at all. 14V 0.2 amp wart controlled by a clock mechanical timer would be the rest of the circuit. Does that sound right, or am I missing something important that's going to fry my mouse solenoid!?
Kind regards,
Gregg G.
