Power those lights with ten volts and they will still provide adequate lighting, but last much longer and not run nearly so hot. And use those connectors at each end of the tube. The mating parts can be turned from stainless steel, one of the softer alloys. You may even find SS tube in the right diameter. And one at each end of the tube will make it simple, if the tube penetrates thru the sides of the lid. Then it can just slide out easily and the two connectors can hold it in place during use. An added benefit is that the externl wiring will not need to be inside the lid where it is much hotter.

 

For this purpose, I plan to use miniature 12V halogen lights, and ceramic sockets such as these:

The potential problem I see is that halogen lamps like pictured do not react well to any form of oils or grease getting on them. When installed in a ceramic socket they are often wiped down with an alcohol swab just to remove any finger oils deposited. High temp wire is easy to come by but I am just not sure high temp halogen lamps won't be a problem in that environment.

Really nice smoker and I hope to see results in Tails From The Grill.

Ron

 

The potential problem I see is that halogen lamps like pictured do not react well to any form of oils or grease getting on them. When installed in a ceramic socket they are often wiped down with an alcohol swab just to remove any finger oils deposited. High temp wire is easy to come by but I am just not sure high temp halogen lamps won't be a problem in that environment.

Really nice smoker and I hope to see results in Tails From The Grill.

Ron

The lighting would be assembled once and sealed at that time. After that all of the bulbs will be in the glass tube, not subject to any sort of contamination. At least that was my thinking.

 

After that all of the bulbs will be in the glass tube, not subject to any sort of contamination. At least that was my thinking

yeap ... that's the plan

 

The lighting would be assembled once and sealed at that time

I've already got about 90% of the plan complete ... one of the last details I'm trying to cover is how to seal the glass tube.

For the contacts, I plan to buy a double ended halogen socket, and separate its parts and screw them at the proper distance inside the grill. I might replace its wires with high temperature wire if I'm not satisfied with the original product's quality.

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I've found pretty good high temp glands that I plan to run the wire through to the smoker's outside.

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Also, these clips will come in handy to route the cable on the back of the grill until it is at a safe distance away from the heat.

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And to seal the tube I plan to use a couple of caps that will be machined from stainless steel that will also function as electrodes. I'm guessing that the best sealant I could use is high temperature silicone such as this:

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I suggest considering running the glass tube through the side walls with a close-fitting hole in each wall. That will provide support without any additional parts, and it will also keep the feed wires away from the hottest part of the smoker/grill. Plus it will make removing the tube a no-tool operation. An added benefit is that when you disconnect it you would be handling the clean parts not the smokey ones.

 

The lighting would be assembled once and sealed at that time.

Yeah, the grease seems to penetrate everything. Seals must be perfect or the grease will find a way in.

the best sealant I could use is high temperature silicone such as this:

Good to 650˚F. (343.3•••˚C)

I suggest considering running the glass tube through the side walls with a close-fitting hole in each wall.

That's a good idea. But use rubber grommets that can withstand the heat and you'll have a fool proof system. Plus the grommets will provide some cushioning when closing the lid. Should the lid be dropped accidentally • • • .

 

I suggest considering running the glass tube through the side walls with a close-fitting hole in each wall. That will provide support without any additional parts, and it will also keep the feed wires away from the hottest part of the smoker/grill. Plus it will make removing the tube a no-tool operation. An added benefit is that when you disconnect it you would be handling the clean parts not the smokey ones.

Already in my list of considerations too ... but it will all depend on how long a glass tube I can find. The grill's total length is a little over 48" (1,220 mm)

 

I remember back in the 60's watching people sculpt glass with a torch and glass rods. I would assume you could probably do the same thing with glass tubing, heating both ends and mashing them together without closing up the hole. Thus, you can make a longer tube. Went looking for videos of such but didn't succeed in finding any.

 

I remember back in the 60's watching people sculpt glass with a torch and glass rods. I would assume you could probably do the same thing with glass tubing, heating both ends and mashing them together without closing up the hole. Thus, you can make a longer tube. Went looking for videos of such but didn't succeed in finding any.

Does that work with Pyrex though?

 

Does that work with Pyrex though?

Pyrex is extremely hard to work with. I know because for a few years I was involved in the neon sign industry, and did some experiments with that type of glass ... all of them ended in disaster...

 

Pyrex is extremely hard to work with. I know because for a few years I was involved in the neon sign industry, and did some experiments with that type of glass ... all of them ended in disaster...

REally, you do not want to do any glass bending or shaping. Buy the correct diameter and length. I have seen glass drain pipes in lab buildings so it is available somewhere.

 

Borosilicate glass (Pyrex) has the ability to heat fast without breaking so it can be shaped by fire.

 

Buy the correct diameter and length. (glass tube)

Might not be so straight forward. There's the bulb diameter, then there's the wires that need to bypass the lamps. How much heat will the lamps subject the wires to? Then how do you connect the wires to the bulbs? Perhaps ultrasonic welding (UW) may be an option, but I don't have a UW you could borrow.

Let me ask a dumb question (not a hijacking of the thread) are there high temp LED's? If so - put those in a tube.

 

Let me ask a dumb question (not a hijacking of the thread) are there high temp LED's? If so - put those in a tube.

That is not a dumb question. And no, there are no high temperature LEDs, that I'm aware of. In fact, I'll be very, very surprised if there are. It would be quite an achievement if someone were to embed an LED semiconductor in glass instead of plastic.

And yes, my MO will be to buy the bulbs and sockets first, and then I'll see if I can find a glass tube of an appropriate size. Then I'll take it from there.

 

Working with borosilicate glass tubing is not that hard for the simple things. Cut it to length and melt the ends to take the sharp broken edge off. I worked a lot of 3/8", 1/4". and 3/16" tubing. Regular, thin, and thick wall. Making various tubing labware as needed in an analytical lab. Making regular bends of all angles is simple in those diameters with a Bunsen burner. As you go up in diameter, more jets are needed. The guys doing artsy farts fair glass stuff Neon Sign tubing have a multiJet rig they use thart heats a wider length. Bending large (>1/2") is not something for a novice and takes special equipment. Building and repairing large custom ground fit labware requires a master glass worker. Getting a simple straight glass tube of any diameter is just a matter of googling and you will find many vendors that will cut to length and anneal the ends for a reasonable price and quickly ship. The dealbreaker may be having to have it bent.

 

You might try a Google of "fused quartz glass tubing" and hopefully find a place local to you that custom make a piece up for you. I am seeing off the shelf stuff like this but it comes up short for your length.

Ron

 

You might try a Google of "fused quartz glass tubing" and hopefully find a place local to you that custom make a piece up for you. I am seeing off the shelf stuff like this but it comes up short for your length.

Ron

Thanks, but those are not only short, but have a diameter of 4 inches!

 

Thanks, but those are not only short, but have a diameter of 4 inches!

Yes, but you might find a manufacturer who will custom make you a fused quartz glass tube including end caps in a custom length and diameter. I only used the 4" diameter as an off the shelf example. Up here I would maybe look to McMaster Carr Supply for an off the shelf. I see 48" long and a 1.0" OD, 0.866" ID. The stuff isn't quite inexpensive.

Ron

 

Optical quality glass may be a bit much on the wallet compared to borosilicate (Pyrex)... See #19, 2" x 59" (50.8mm x 1500mm) Pyrex brand for ~$20 + ship