First time posting, but I have a motorcycle. I’m working on that uses a canbus system for the lighting and reversing polarity isn’t my problem. But I want to add an LED strip with five wires ; brake, running, left and right turn Amber blinkers. One ground. The kicker is that the signal wire for the stock Lighting is a shared wire. When I press the brake, it completes the same circuit as the blinkers. The reason is because the stock lights only had red no amber. My thought was coming up with a way to split the signal or have a second relay prohibit the function of the braking leds while the blinker leds are running so that it does not flash off and on with the blinkers. Thankyou

 

You will have to obtain a Factory-Wiring-Schematic for your Bike.

It's likely to be expensive.

Hopefully it will be available in Digital-Format so that it can be easily posted here.

Or, You can take Pictures of the appropriate sections of the Manual and post them.

It may be completely impractical to make the modifications that You describe.
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the signal wire for the stock Lighting is a shared wire. When I press the brake, it completes the same circuit as the blinkers.

That doesn't make any sense.
If the brake light and the blinkers are on a shared wire, then how are they separately controlled?
How can the blinkers work if the brake isn't being applied?

 

So the stock RED light lights up when you use the brakes. BUT the RED light blinks when the blinker is active and the brake light for that lamp is disabled to allow it to blink. That's done by a series of switches somewhere on the bike. But you want to turn the blinking light into a YELLOW light and maintain a RED light for the brakes. That's going to require additional circuitry and a rewiring of the switches. Without a schematic we can't begin to guess how your system is factory setup. Let alone how to modify it.

 

Really, there is quite a bit that we do not have a clue about here. What part does the canbus play in all of this?? Since the addition appears to be not connected with the existing lights at all, it might work best to sense the different signals, which would be engine running, brake active, left turn, and right turn, and use separate controls directly activated by the existing switches.
But for sensing the switches, the connections have to be available. Also the voltages must be known for both the active and inactive states, because presently they somehow communicate with the canbus system.
So the whole project might be rather complex.

 

Which is exactly why I'm still waiting for an answer to Post #2.
There is no reason to go any further without a Factory-Wiring-Schematic.
Too many unknowns.
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One more concern is that if the computer system also monitors the current drawn, then adding any real loads will lead to it announcing a fault condition. That was the case with adding trailer lights to my Grand Caravan. So an interface is required to sense the voltage and operate the added LED light bar.
AND, once again, the simple way to do that is to monitor the input switch signal.
And a side comment is that the main reason for going to computer control/canbus is cost reduction for the manufacturer.
I solved the problem much differently on mine, years ago. No lights and no reflectors and it was painted flat black (Night Driving Grey). So I was invisible, making me the only one responsible for my safety. The headlight was controlled by a handlbar switch, so stealth riding was easy. It all worked well because half the drivers never see a motorcycle and quite a few wanted to do a "Dust Off" as they went by.
Of course, being invisible is not for everybody. It does demand full attention at all times.

 

Sorry for the late reply heres the schematic i drew up and really the only thing about the brake and light and stuff is that the signal needs to be split so both lights wont flash with the blinker thankyou

Which is exactly why I'm still waiting for an answer to Post #2.
There is no reason to go any further without a Factory-Wiring-Schematic.
Too many unknowns.
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That's obviously not a "Factory-Wiring-Schematic".
We can't understand that "non-conventional", and unreliable, format.

When creating a hand-drawn Schematic,
it is important to keep in mind that You are trying to communicate everything that You know,
and everything that You don't know about the Wiring,
to any person with a basic Electronics background.

There are most certainly many details that the Factory knows, that You don't know.

Sometimes a hand-drawn Schematic may need to be re-drawn ~4 or ~5 times, or even more,
before it starts to communicate all of the details accurately and completely.
Sometimes written Notes are required as well.

Also, your proposed solution should be a separate Schematic which has your changes added on.
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Don't need to see your proposed solution, which just muddies the waters.
Just show us exactly and simply what the present wiring is so we can understand your rather confusing explanation.

Don't understand what you mean by "the signals need to be split".
Exactly what do the brake and turn signals do now that you don't want?

 

Don't need to see your proposed solution, which just muddies the waters.
Just show us exactly and simply what the present wiring is so we can understand your rather confusing explanation.

Don't understand what you mean by "the signals need to be split".
Exactly what do the brake and turn signals do know that you don't want?

"Splitting the signals" means that both indicators lite for braking but only one side lites/flashes for a turn signal. That is why turn signal switches had so many wires, and the switches were so complex.
AND THAT is why I suggested picking up the signal AT THE ACTUAL SWITCH, and not at the output for the lites. I am familiar with a lot of automobile circuits. The testers I set up and programmed tested U-VAN wiring for two years, a while back And a few other GM products after that.

 

Don't need to see your proposed solution, which just muddies the waters.
Just show us exactly and simply what the present wiring is so we can understand your rather confusing explanation.

Don't understand what you mean by "the signals need to be split".
Exactly what do the brake and turn signals do now that you don't want?

That's obviously not a "Factory-Wiring-Schematic".
We can't understand that "non-conventional", and unreliable, format.

When creating a hand-drawn Schematic,
it is important to keep in mind that You are trying to communicate everything that You know,
and everything that You don't know about the Wiring,
to any person with a basic Electronics background.

There are most certainly many details that the Factory knows, that You don't know.

Sometimes a hand-drawn Schematic may need to be re-drawn ~4 or ~5 times, or even more,
before it starts to communicate all of the details accurately and completely.
Sometimes written Notes are required as well.

Also, your proposed solution should be a separate Schematic which has your changes added on.
.
.
.

it worked so the “unreliable” schematic did the trick

 

That's obviously not a "Factory-Wiring-Schematic".
We can't understand that "non-conventional", and unreliable, format.

When creating a hand-drawn Schematic,
it is important to keep in mind that You are trying to communicate everything that You know,
and everything that You don't know about the Wiring,
to any person with a basic Electronics background.

There are most certainly many details that the Factory knows, that You don't know.

Sometimes a hand-drawn Schematic may need to be re-drawn ~4 or ~5 times, or even more,
before it starts to communicate all of the details accurately and completely.
Sometimes written Notes are required as well.

Also, your proposed solution should be a separate Schematic which has your changes added on.
.
.
.

Don't need to see your proposed solution, which just muddies the waters.
Just show us exactly and simply what the present wiring is so we can understand your rather confusing explanation.

Don't understand what you mean by "the signals need to be split".
Exactly what do the brake and turn signals do now that you don't want?

i also understand what you guys were saying but the fact is that polaris kept the factory wiring under wraps and the only information i had was that the blinker and brake controlled ONE wire that was a switched ground and based off that, the soulution was exactly what i drew up the information i had was the three wires from the harness. Thankyou for the replys in the first place tho i appreciate it

 

I understood just what "Splitting the signals" was intending to say, and that is the reason for my response in post #11. Using the signals directly from the switches that trigger the action will allow the logic to provide the functions that the TS requests with fairly simple logic, possibly even just a few diodes.

 

I understood just what "Splitting the signals" was intending to say, and that is the reason for my response in post #11. Using the signals directly from the switches that trigger the action will allow the logic to provide the functions that the TS requests with fairly simple logic, possibly even just a few diodes.

yes of course, thankyou for your responses, i was very glad it worked and it was more work than i thought an led install would take haha

 

Yes, I was aware that direct connections would be a fair amount more work, but short of gaining all of the details that were held as secret, it was the safe and effective way. Glad it worked out for you!!