That's quite a dangerous multimeter. If I had one with voltage and current on the same sockets, selected by a switch, it would be dead in no time.

And the 10A is unfused!

But both of those are extremely common, both in low-end and high-end multimeters.

And MANY of us have meters that have suffered the obvious abuses that result. I don't think I have a single meter with in intact fuse precisely due to measuring the voltage across something but forgetting to take the meter out of a current-measurement mode. That's a minor nuisance for me because I strongly prefer to measure current via the voltage drop across a resistor whenever I can (which is most of the time for the stuff I do). So I never have a compelling reason to replace the fuse. My first digital meter (a Realistic Micronta, which I still have and is my go-to meter more than three decades later -- I even prefer it over either of my Flukes) I thought I had destroyed the first night I had it when I was measuring the voltage and current draw around the room I was renting in an old house (that still had Edison fuses in the box). I was switching back and forth between measuring ~120 VAC and several amps using the 10 A range and, sure enough, I didn't switch the leads over or change the range and blew the 20 A fuse with my meter. Thought for sure the meter was toast, but it survived (that and a few other significant abuses over the years) and is still going strong. But that was back when Radio Shack / Tandy made some pretty darn good stuff.

 

Define "sleep mode" current draw. I'd say it should be 100 microamps or less. The cars I've monitored seem to be at 5 to 15 milliamperes but, some cars just don't get that low as they briefly keep checking (and finding) a key fob within a 5 meters or so and they just stay in the awake mode and continue to draw 50 to 150mA and the battery dies after a week or so. Some brands are worse than others - typically a purchased module so "brand" is a bit broad. Models or platforms should be more correct as the Honda CR-V and Accura RDX share nearly every part so they have the same keyless entry mechanism. It works ok. The Accord, on the other hand, with the Remote Start feature, just doesn't want to turn down to sleep mode).

I can’t remember the sleep current draw but long term parked at the airport you don’t want to return to a dead battery. You can hear the power down after 15-30 min and then goes to deep sleep after 14 days or when battery voltage drops below about 10 volts. Some cars allow deep sleep before leaving car at long term parking.
This means if measuring parked current draw you may have to wait 15-30 minutes for power down value.

 

But both of those are extremely common, both in low-end and high-end multimeters.

Common? Sure. Good? Not something I would want, especially on a meter were the user is less likely to understand why care needs to be taken when the probes are in those jacks.

I had a Micronta from Radio Shack for decades and it is still going but I passed it on to one of my sons. It is this one, I forgot how expensive it was!

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I can’t remember the sleep current draw but long term parked at the airport you don’t want to return to a dead battery. You can hear the power down after 15-30 min and then goes to deep sleep after 14 days or when battery voltage drops below about 10 volts. Some cars allow deep sleep before leaving car at long term parking.
This means if measuring parked current draw you may have to wait 15-30 minutes for power down value.

Surely you don't want the battery to die while unused for a week or two at the airport but very common occurrence for some models. The big airports in several cities I've lived in offer free jump starts 27/7 because dead batteries are so common.

Aftermarket remote starter kits are another big culprit of parasitic drain

 

Common? Sure. Good? Not something I would want, especially on a meter were the user is less likely to understand why care needs to be taken when the probes are in those jacks.

I had a Micronta from Radio Shack for decades and it is still going but I passed it on to one of my sons. It is this one, I forgot how expensive it was!

I agree that it's not something I like and I don't know why it is so common -- whether there's a technical/economic reason or whether some early, widely used digital meter did it that way and everyone else jumped on board in order to be "familiar" to the new market.

I said Realistic when I should have said Micronta. I bought mine in '87 but I'm pretty sure it was the exact same price. I think the second Micronta I bought (and which I don't like nearly as much, primarily because it doesn't have auto-off, which has cost me a lot of batteries over the years) about ten years later was also that exact same price. The $79.99 price point seemed to be a very stable market price for these kinds of things for a long time -- probably because people subconsciously think of it as "well under $100".