Hi,
Firstly, it's been about 25+ years since I last undertook a 'proper' electrical project (and that was at school!)
I have some B&O speakers from an Audi that I'm trying to retrofit in another car - they are probably controlled by the Amp (which I don't have)
Putting 5v on to the motor extends the speakers out, reversing the polarity brings it down. There are 3 wires (well 5 - 2 are speakers) going to the device, Pins 1+2 (pin 1 + pin2 - ) cause it to extend and (pin 1 - pin 2 +) cause it to retract. I have tried bridging between pins 1+3 and pins 2+3 to see if that would prompt anything (with pin 1+ and pin2 -)
I believe the motor has a cut-off built in as it doesn't sound like it's straining at the end of travel.
Ideally, what I'd like to happen using the P-con wire from the headunit is - ignition on - energise the speaker UP, on ignition off, energise the speaker down.
Now I'm only using 5v - I have tried increasing the voltage but 5v gives the smoothest action on the motor and mechanism.
So I would also need to drop the 12v down to 5v
---
My rambling idea...
I think I will need a permanent feed to two relays and the ignition switched power to the relay so that when the ignition is on Pin 1+ and Pin 2-, when ignition is off, I need the relays to switch to Pin1- and Pin2+. I hope that makes sense. I have googled around and I have seen diagrams showing something similar with switches - I guess I just need the P-con wire from the headunit to be the pseudo switch.
I can post photo's if needed and happy to shout anybody willing to help some beer tokens via PayPal
Firstly, it's been about 25+ years since I last undertook a 'proper' electrical project (and that was at school!)
I have some B&O speakers from an Audi that I'm trying to retrofit in another car - they are probably controlled by the Amp (which I don't have)
Putting 5v on to the motor extends the speakers out, reversing the polarity brings it down. There are 3 wires (well 5 - 2 are speakers) going to the device, Pins 1+2 (pin 1 + pin2 - ) cause it to extend and (pin 1 - pin 2 +) cause it to retract. I have tried bridging between pins 1+3 and pins 2+3 to see if that would prompt anything (with pin 1+ and pin2 -)
I believe the motor has a cut-off built in as it doesn't sound like it's straining at the end of travel.
Ideally, what I'd like to happen using the P-con wire from the headunit is - ignition on - energise the speaker UP, on ignition off, energise the speaker down.
Now I'm only using 5v - I have tried increasing the voltage but 5v gives the smoothest action on the motor and mechanism.
So I would also need to drop the 12v down to 5v
---
My rambling idea...
I think I will need a permanent feed to two relays and the ignition switched power to the relay so that when the ignition is on Pin 1+ and Pin 2-, when ignition is off, I need the relays to switch to Pin1- and Pin2+. I hope that makes sense. I have googled around and I have seen diagrams showing something similar with switches - I guess I just need the P-con wire from the headunit to be the pseudo switch.
I can post photo's if needed and happy to shout anybody willing to help some beer tokens via PayPal