Help on PCB for Fridge Freezer (Can you identify this chip?)

Thread Starter

WAZ911

Joined Nov 27, 2023
2
Hello,

I had my fridge break and have stripped and traced source to blown intergrated circuit.

I have attached pic of the PCB case to show model number of inverter. Also attached is full pic of PCB and another of the blown chip but I'm unable to identify. Can someone please help? Only marking is 223 on the chip. If it helps there is an identical chip in the same position on the other side of the PCB.

Can anyone confirm what kind of chip this is, also where would I even look for one as a replacement as the internet hasn't been too helpful in searching!

I can't seem to trace a data sheet for this PCB.

All pics attached.

Thanks all for your help!


Thanks
Waz
 

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geekoftheweek

Joined Oct 6, 2013
1,183
I can't say what your problem is, but I can say the blown part is most likely caused by another problem and simply replacing the part won't make a difference. I would imagine it is a resistor.

It's very unlikely you'll find a datasheet or schematic for the unit if you haven't already.
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
8,973
morning,

thanks for this. When looking online I can’t find a part similar to that shown. Any idea or a link to this part?

Thanks
Welcome to AAC.

At a guess, this Panasonic part at Mouser should work. I can’t tell what power rating the resistor should be from the photo so I have erred on the side of caution with a ½W part.

You should measure the part (length and width) so you can compare it to the footprint of any potential replacements. But first, why do you think the part is bad, have you tested it? (Your photo has the resistor in shadow so if there is physical damage, I can’t see it.)

You should measure the resistance of the part to see if it is out of spec. You can try doing this in place, but the surrounding components may cause false readings. If you test it and there is infinite resistance (as far as your meter is concerned, with the display showing OL or another indication of out of range) then you can conclude it is open, which would mean it has failed.

But if it shows a resistance that will fit on the KΩ scale, and it is not ~22KΩ, you will have to desolder it and test it alone to see if it is bad. Where that component is located in the circuit, there is a good chance it died, but if it has, it may be a symptom of your problem and not the cause which could lie downstream from it.

So, if you do find it is deceased, buy more than one replacement since the first one may be sacrificed to the troubleshooting gods.
 
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