Hi.
What would you say is a reasonable power guess ? Cannot find its specifications. Power consumption says 45Watt. Housing is at least 13mm thick clear plexiglass. Zero wood nor particle nor cheap plastic, ported 10 inch driver RD 1010-111. Is 30 year old.




The built-in transistor amplifier says Triad 8.0p. amplifier. No data found either.

 

Since it's likely a Class AB amp with a max efficiency of 78.5%, I would guess the rated output is no more than about 30Wrms, not exactly enough to rattle the walls from movie sound-effects, but probably sufficient for moderate level music listening.
And the speaker element looks like that's about all it could handle without distortion/damage.

 

Horrible speaker box material. All for show and nothing for good sound.

 

Asking us about the power level without any picture or additional information about the amplifier?? Most of us have very little mind-reading ability, and so you get guesses. Crutschow is reasonably correct in the estimate of the maximum possible power out from the amplifier. Seeing it might allow some folks to recognize it and give a detailed correct answer. My guess as to the amplifier power is 20 to 25 watts, which is not much by current standards, but entirely reasonable for modest systems 30 or more years ago.
I see that the portion of the photo that shows a portion of the amplifier cuts off whatever follows the word "power". IS THAT INTENTIONAL???

I once consulted for a "TRIAD" company, about 35 years ago. Based on their label practice, I would guess that " Triad 8.0p. amplifier. " means an amplifier with 8.0 watts out at some very low distortion level. So it might be running class"A" and only 8 watts output, at some very low distortion level.

 

What type of power supply does it have?
If it is a SMPS, subtract at least 10 to 15% from Crut’s calculations.
EDIT; I agree with NSAspook’s comment. Without any internal damping and flimsy construction (no internal bracing) there may be several resonant frequencies where the box will rattle.

 

If it is a SMPS, subtract at least 10 to 15% from Crut’s calculations.

Subtract?

 

Is that a paper cone? Expect it to disintegrate upon further use.

Polypropylene? The poly foam surround tends to disintegrate.

Maybe its the Florida weather, but aside from my 1994 Peavey's, I've never had a loud speaker last 30 years without extreme degradation.

 

What type of power supply does it have?
If it is a SMPS, subtract at least 10 to 15% from Crut’s calculations.
EDIT; I agree with NSAspook’s comment. Without any internal damping and flimsy construction (no internal bracing) there may be several resonant frequencies where the box will rattle.

This reminds me of some of the cars I've seen with the heavy bass blasting and the car sounding like it's going to imminently rattle to peices.

 

What type of power supply does it have?
If it is a SMPS, subtract at least 10 to 15% from Crut’s calculations.
EDIT; I agree with NSAspook’s comment. Without any internal damping and flimsy construction (no internal bracing) there may be several resonant frequencies where the box will rattle.

Something with braced MDF would be so much better, just spray some clear paint on it.

 

Have you tried powering it and connecting to an audio source?

 

It works, and well, perhaps too loud for a living room. The word "power" is under the power switch. Power supply has a ~6" x 2" toroidal transformer. Cone is polypropylene, rim is rubberish.

 

You might want to run a tone generator (a free smartphone app) through it to see where it rolls off on the high end.

 

perhaps too loud for a living room.

I assume it has a volume control for that.

 

Yes, had to turn way down.
There is an anechoic sponge inside that may have to go to the garbage as it is not firm, getting mushy and fragile and deforms when handling, like cone rims become after years.
The low-pass is tuneable 50 to 175Hz.


(After vacuuming and cleaning in and out)

 

There is an anechoic sponge inside that may have to go to the garbage as it is not firm, getting mushy and fragile and deforms when handling

Unless it is crumbling, I would leave it be.

The low-pass is tuneable 50 to 175Hz.

Generally you want to go no higher than about 120Hz to keep volce frequencies from coming out of the sub.
You can adjust it for best bass sound to blend with your other speakers.

What size are your regular speakers?

 

What size are your regular speakers?

4 Bookshelf; 2 Minimus7=4" and 2 KLH=5" and one 3" full range wall contact transducer/'shaker'

This seems a little brother : ---->

 

The Minimus speaker is a classic RS model. The 7's are nice. Think I sold some the earlier versions with I worked at RS as a teen.

My classic RS collection. Only the enclosure is original, the crossovers and drivers have all been replaced..

 

The Minimus speaker is a classic RS model. The 7's are nice. Think I sold some the earlier versions with I worked at RS as a teen.

View attachment 350218
View attachment 350219
My classic RS collection. Only the enclosure is original, the crossovers and drivers have all been replaced..

I passed up a $30 pair of 7s at our local goodwill this past weekend.

They were (externally) perfect condition. I held them in my hands with deep nostalgia, then realized I had no use for them.

 

I have an interesting sealed-box subwoofer with cone motion feedback.
It's from Rythmik Audio and has an added small isolated winding next to the voice coil to generate a coil motion signal for negative feedback to the amplifier.
This reduces distortion, and extends and flattens the frequency response, eliminating the peaking and resulting boomy sound typical of many ported subwoofers.

 

I zoomed on the photo and there is a "45 WATT" statement by the line cord . So the power is much less than that. The power connection on my "Seismic Bass" amplified box is stated as 175 watts. It can be excessively loud.